The learning process continues. First load of slab wood ran through just fine and lasted longer than expected. On the second load made a mistake of trying to fit a piece too long in and it bridged the rest of the wood and the fire went out. Restarted quickly but I will have to be careful to keep all wood parallel to each other especially with slab wood that doesn’t roll.
I cut all my tops at 30-36” and just place those on the very top, haven’t had a problem yet. The rest of my wood is ran thru a fire wood processor and is 17” long, all that goes on bottom.
anyone had any issues with the secondary heat exchanger refractory cracking? Checked the lower area this morning and found the front refractory block cracked in two right down the middle. When I picked up the stove the baffle piece which sits on the front edge of this refractory block (the width of the refractory about an inch thick and 2.5 inches high) was laying in the bottom and the dealer told me it just had to be set back in place.
Mine was in place but loose, wonder if trying some furnace cement instead to hold it in place instead of the silicone.
I’d think eventually the crack would fill with fine ash anyways.
Fire in the hole! Fired off my G400 for the first time today. What ever you do, don't use Permatex pipe dope with Teflon in it. I have done gas, water and steam piping for over 35 years and this is the worst dope I have ever used. Did pressure tests on everything before firing and all checked out ok after re-soldering some mono flow tee fittings. Filled, purged then did some flow tests before firing. Then fired it up and had 4 leaks in my shed on threaded fittings. The pipe dope drips off the joints like snot and that is after I wiped all excess dope off. It acts like this crap dissolves in water. Relocating the red L.E.D. control panel light outside worked great. It was dark out by the time I fired it off so I couldn't tell how much smoke there was but I am starting with dried slab wood and it got a little rain on some of it last night. I know if you have the loading door and the bypass open too long it goes into a fault.
Yep, been there, but we always considered the Permatex to be good stuff, least compared to the stuff that literally has grit in it. Of course we usually only use it on the nylon fittings that are used on all our field sprayers. Whats the point of the grit anyways? It all gets wiped off when you thread the pipes together.
I had maybe three fittings that were seeping just enough to leave a tiny trail once it got hot and ran a few days, my experience is paste literally glues the joints together once good and hot. Got tired of the paste once the dew set and my pipes got wet from the dew and the paste wouldn’t stick anymore, used heavy duty teflon tape after that and none of those leak or seep.
It does just barely sip the wood, I’m still over filling a little, 15 years of running old smokey makes for some ingrained habits that are hard to break. I almost think somebody that’s never run a OWB would have a little easier time of it as no old habits to break.
I took some 100% spray silicone and sprayed the damper cover with it, makes any mess wipe right off then.
It’s not really a fault mode if the damper is left open too long but a warning that the damper is still open in case you have it open, shut the door and walk away. If the draft motor shuts off because you have it open for 5 minutes but your not done yet, just move the handle a few inches like your going to close it, then open it back up and that will reset the timer so you have another five minutes of the draft inducer running and the pleasure of no smoke in your face while finishing up. That in itself is a strong selling point, I’ve lost track of how many times I was loading my old one and the wind would shift and end up with burning eyes and gagging on smoke.
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Topic: Question on the G400 (Read 10448 times)