Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: Banna on March 17, 2017, 06:51:08 AM
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About had a boil over yesterday, happen to be home and caught it. Thank goodness.
How often would the door gasket need to be changed? Air was getting in from somewhere so I am guessing my gasket is bad. It's 3 years old.
Thanks
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If the gasket is bad you should have a constant over temp issue. If it is a one time deal it more than likely a mechanical or human error issue.
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If the gasket is bad you should have a constant over temp issue. If it is a one time deal it more than likely a mechanical or human error issue.
:post:
Exactly, you don’t post what stove your using, but make sure the damper is free as well as any solenoid that might run it.
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I have a Ridgewood stove
The damper was shut when I got to it, but could have stuck open. I never thought of that. The fire was flaming inside the stove when I opened the door. It was burning good.
The gasket looks to be in good shape, I have seen worse. I will most likely be shutting down next week, but will be keeping an eye on it until then.
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The firerope should have a clear groove in it from the door jamb all the way around. Also from what I've seen pictures of some of the cracking issues Ridgewood has had it could pull air from the cracks at the corners of the door jamb. These aren't on the door jamb itself but on the front face of the firebox. Would be easy to miss.
It's not water-cooled so you don't want to weld back solid, rather do a scab over the crack welding only on one side so it can expand.
But like was mentioned a solenoid issue sounds more probable.
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One of my co workers had his door jamb crack on his ridgewood. Had no luck with warranty so I brough him my welder and we fixed it ourself. It was in fact the crack causing an overtemp on warmer days. Cold days didn't show an issue. My rope gasket has made 2 seasons so far without any issues. I wet the rope with wd-40 about once a month. I bought a gallon jug from the hardware store and a cheap 5 dollar, 1 gallon garden sprayer that I use to spray it. It will absorb almost a pint of wd once a month. Keeps it soft and pliable and I also noticed the door latch has more resistance when locking it after the gasket has been wet down. Once the latch gets easy to close I pull out the sprayer! Whenever the gallon jugs of wd come on sale I always grab one. Most of the time you can get one for 10 bucks. Lasts me about 1 whole year.
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I'll give the WD40 tip a try.
I hung a counter weight on the door latch to help snug up the door and adjusted the tension on the latch a litle. I am going to remove the counter weight today, I will be home to keep an eye on it. It seems to be back to normal.
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I replace my door gasket every 2 yrs..At the end of the 2nd year the door gasket has pretty much had it..
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I replace my door gasket every 2 yrs..At the end of the 2nd year the door gasket has pretty much had it..
Try the wd40 trick. I bet you can get 4 years out of it this way.
Another thing I'd like to add for you guys adjusting your doors. When I bought my stove the door was adjusted pretty snug on the gasket. Wasn't real impressed by the indent that it left but the company said that's how it should be. Being the kind of person I am I didn't listen and adjusted the latch and hinge about another additional half inch tighter. I literally had to jam that door shut with all my might to get the latch to grab. Then I also had to push the handle down with almost my whole 225 pounds to get the door locked. The gasket now has over a half inch indent in it from the stove. Im willing to assume that my door gasket will last 10 years this way. There is no way any air will leak past it, even if it gets hard and dried out it would take a lot of effort for air to travel through it. Props to my father in law for teaching me this, he hasn't replaced a door gasket ever.
Edit: I know it sounds kinda brutal on the stove but I'm not really afraid to break something either. If you're the type that's worried about breaking something then this method might not be for you.
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Sprayed it down with WD yesterday, it soaked it up.
Everything running like it should. Looks like the middle of the week I will be shutting it down for the year.
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Sprayed it down with WD yesterday, it soaked it up.
Everything running like it should. Looks like the middle of the week I will be shutting it down for the year.
Don't be afraid to spray that gasket after you shut the stove down and even a time or 2 throughout the summer months.
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I don't think you'll damage anything by tightening it up. If you do they didn't build it strong enough. Keeping it tight does eliminate blow-by which from what I've seen is the main cause of fire rope failure. Creosote condenses on the rope and then it seats unevenly and you've got to replace. A rope on a tight door should last 5-10 years. A deep groove helps.
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Sprayed it down with WD yesterday, it soaked it up.
Everything running like it should. Looks like the middle of the week I will be shutting it down for the year.
Don't be afraid to spray that gasket after you shut the stove down and even a time or 2 throughout the summer months.
Great idea!!!!!! :thumbup:friggin rope is pricey, but I got the last one from the stealer.
Wd 40:Old post office trick for waterproofing leather boots [smells up your socks abit ,,,but who cares]
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I replace my door gasket every 2 yrs..At the end of the 2nd year the door gasket has pretty much had it..
Try the wd40 trick. I bet you can get 4 years out of it this way.
Another thing I'd like to add for you guys adjusting your doors. When I bought my stove the door was adjusted pretty snug on the gasket. Wasn't real impressed by the indent that it left but the company said that's how it should be. Being the kind of person I am I didn't listen and adjusted the latch and hinge about another additional half inch tighter. I literally had to jam that door shut with all my might to get the latch to grab. Then I also had to push the handle down with almost my whole 225 pounds to get the door locked. The gasket now has over a half inch indent in it from the stove. Im willing to assume that my door gasket will last 10 years this way. There is no way any air will leak past it, even if it gets hard and dried out it would take a lot of effort for air to travel through it. Props to my father in law for teaching me this, he hasn't replaced a door gasket ever.
Edit: I know it sounds kinda brutal on the stove but I'm not really afraid to break something either. If you're the type that's worried about breaking something then this method might not be for you.
Interesting about the WD40 trick! Ill have to try it
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If your going to replace your gasket might as well do the silicone trick and have a better gasket as well.
1: Scrape all residue out of the door track, if any rust is present go ahead and fix that as well.
2: Using high heat silicone place a generous bead in the door track, go ahead and work some silicone into the new rope as well.
3: Place the rope in the door track as you would a normal rope, spread more high heat silicone over the rope.
4: Using a putty knife work the silicone smooth, if desired masking tape can be used for a neater appearance when done.
5: Place wax paper over the fresh silicone and gently close the door, then open and leave open for at least 24 hours for the silicone to cure, given the amount of silicone 48 hours might be better. If wax paper isn’t available I cut strips of aluminum foil and just leave it attached to the silicone.
6: Remove the wax paper and enjoy your new gasket.
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I've seen the heat from a grated unit cook even high temp silicone. Just peeled it off. On the older style MF units where the door is down near the grates just doing silicone behind the rope seems to work better... But like I said, I'm referring to units where the gaskets get really hot.
But putting it on the face does make for a nice tight seal.
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If your going to replace your gasket might as well do the silicone trick and have a better gasket as well.
1: Scrape all residue out of the door track, if any rust is present go ahead and fix that as well.
2: Using high heat silicone place a generous bead in the door track, go ahead and work some silicone into the new rope as well.
3: Place the rope in the door track as you would a normal rope, spread more high heat silicone over the rope.
4: Using a putty knife work the silicone smooth, if desired masking tape can be used for a neater appearance when done.
5: Place wax paper over the fresh silicone and gently close the door, then open and leave open for at least 24 hours for the silicone to cure, given the amount of silicone 48 hours might be better. If wax paper isn’t available I cut strips of aluminum foil and just leave it attached to the silicone.
6: Remove the wax paper and enjoy your new gasket.
You should add a step of moving the door adjustment all the way out first. Otherwise you might loose a lot of adjustment range.
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If your going to replace your gasket might as well do the silicone trick and have a better gasket as well.
1: Scrape all residue out of the door track, if any rust is present go ahead and fix that as well.
2: Using high heat silicone place a generous bead in the door track, go ahead and work some silicone into the new rope as well.
3: Place the rope in the door track as you would a normal rope, spread more high heat silicone over the rope.
4: Using a putty knife work the silicone smooth, if desired masking tape can be used for a neater appearance when done.
5: Place wax paper over the fresh silicone and gently close the door, then open and leave open for at least 24 hours for the silicone to cure, given the amount of silicone 48 hours might be better. If wax paper isn’t available I cut strips of aluminum foil and just leave it attached to the silicone.
6: Remove the wax paper and enjoy your new gasket.
Seems like that wouldn't work for me. Wouldn't that smash all over the place? I guess I shut my door way too tight.
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You would have to let it completely cure before tightening it up. With the silicone you shouldn't need it as tight either.
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I saw in the manual that this was an option. I think I may try this on my original rope gasket if it ever does fail. I have a feeling my gasket isn't going to fail anytime soon. I'll try it if I ever get to that point.