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[Clueless]

So we lit the wooddoctor, still not sure which model but we lit it, no leaks...i have a lot of questions, i hope i can keep them in order and i'm sure i will be on again with more.

I am only heating my 1500 square foot concrete slab in the basement.

We filled the boiler with hard well water, do i need to add citric acid, any clue how much?

There are 5 small flow meters on a header in the basement, they are only reading 1/8 to 1/4 gpm, almost at 0, is this normal? There are 5 loops from header to return. I changed the in floor ciculating pump, there was a lot of gunk on intake side and screen was nearly plugged on the outlet side, pump was also noisy. Changed it and flow increased a little bit. Nnow if there is gunk in the pump, house is 6 years old, can the floor runs be gunked up and can these be cleaned and whats the best way?

Set points on the boiler are 160 high limit and 140 low, make sense? The inlet on my header after mixing valve was at 110 degrees, and return in celcius was about 13 slowly climbing during the day, actually it only went up 3 deg celcius during 8 hours is this too slow? Whats the max temp for a concrete slab? Is it 140 deg? i played with the mixing valve but no noticeable changes, just happy its not seized.

Its a start, i really like the concept, havin fun learning but its tricky stuff...

Thanks everyone, i'm sure i will be back tomorrow with more, good night!

[slimjim]

Clueless, you have some serious issues, shut the pump off or you are going to kill it as well, it sounds like you will need to flush the entire system, can you send me a picture of your plumbing, I may be able to talk you through it.

[Clueless]

Yeah i shut the in floor loop, just the circulating pump for the boiler is on and makin a bit of noise i might add. I will leave it on i guess its still pretty cold here, there is awith small smoldering fire. I will take some pictures as soon as i go over no internet over there. But i will log on as soon as i can for directions.

[slimjim]

We will be looking for the purge ports and automatic water feeder, each loop will need to be purged of air and sludge separately with street pressure water, when you get there can you give me a call, I will need to be at the jobsite by 9 am, I'll PM you my number

[Clueless]

Did the purge, each loop one by one, a bit of gunk, not too bad, expected worse, new circulating pump, still 1/4 gpm flow, very low. Had no problem getting a good flow with city water through each loop..

The inlet temp stayed at 110 deg unless i played with mixing vallve, the return stayed at 55, then slowly rose to 60 deg in 10 hours, getting warmer but very slow, just trickling in. The only thing i can see is an obstructed mixing valve. Can't isolate it from boiler loop, gonna let it cool down and remove it, when weather warms a bit, still freezes at nigh here. The other pump used for the hot water tank seems to be running very well, lots of hot water. No issues there.

Any recommendations as to mixing vale brands or makes any options.

What would be the set points for the boiler fan on the boiler itself? Its at 140 low and 160 hi limit. Make sense?

How much water and how often does the average boiler require when in full use?

This stuff is addictive, i want to light that utility room with gauges and sensors, any ideas?

[slimjim]

Could we please go one step at a time, can you without voiding your warranty, turn up your wood boiler set point and start again, I would like to see 190+

[Clueless]

 Will do. I'm working tomorrow but I will be back at the new house saturday and i'll fire it up and raise the set point to 190 - 200. See what happens.

[victor6deep]

Will do. I'm working tomorrow but I will be back at the new house saturday and i'll fire it up and raise the set point to 190 - 200. See what happens.

Omg. This guy is awesome. Good luck clueless, let that fire roar.

[slimjim]

OMG was that a slam Victor, perhaps clueless and I have had conversations off forum!

[Clueless]

Ok like the name says, clueless, maybe not totally clueless, enough to get me in trouble i would say! So i apologize for any miscues...very interesting stuff...Anyways, no air issues that i can tell, the loops as i was told by the radiant installer should run at 1/4 gph, a little low for me but we now have that. I left it circulating tonight, should have good temp sometime tomorrow.

Are there any manuals for wood doctors, just to help me out and avoid any confusing or misunderstood questions. So far this has been the only place where with slimjim that i have been able to take stabs at the owb. I will load some pics of the boiler tomorrow, maybe you can nail the model from these pics.

Goodnight and thanks

[willieG]

for starters i would set your delivery water to the floor at about 120 and open your flow to  1 gpm to each loop..i think (only think) your taco 7 (if it is just supplying the loops and you have another pump at the OWB) it should be able to supply between 1/2 and 3/4 gpm to 5 loops of 1/2 pipe 250 feet long

personally i think 1/4 gpm is not near enough
in my opinion i would like to see the flow about 1 gpm or a little higher but that would require a bigger pump than you have i think

if your loops are kept under the 300 foot maximum and your gpm is within the recomended flow charts, your return temps should be able to be kept 10 to 20 degrees below delivery temps. remember a .1 gpm increase = 5 btu per square foot

[slimjim]

Clueless, have no fear , we will get you there, nice post Willie, I agree!

[Clueless]

I agree the flow is low, the pump is new, in floor loops appear to be free of air/ debris. Boiler loop has also been purged, everything is flowing good.  Now I only get 1 gpm on a loop when i isolate the 4 loops with one open, everytime and on each loop, no diference from one to another. Should i over the course of summer look into replacing the circulating pump with a bigger one? Woould there be issues with the boiler circulating pump if i was pulling more water into the floor loops? Now, How would i measure the flow in the boiler feed loop, would i have to install a flow meter, or iis there something easier?


Is it possible that there would be issues with the mixing valve like i mentioned before? It does regulate the temperature when i open/close it, seems to be doing its job. Debris ocstruction maybe?

I am over there all weekend i'm watching it every  chance i get for temp/flow. No internet over there but i will keep posting here, if i get in trouble i'll make a call.

Thanks
 

[slimjim]

Do you still have my phone number? can you check your mixing valve for debris as well?

[idahohay]

for starters i would set your delivery water to the floor at about 120 and open your flow to  1 gpm to each loop..i think (only think) your taco 7 (if it is just supplying the loops and you have another pump at the OWB) it should be able to supply between 1/2 and 3/4 gpm to 5 loops of 1/2 pipe 250 feet long

personally i think 1/4 gpm is not near enough
in my opinion i would like to see the flow about 1 gpm or a little higher but that would require a bigger pump than you have i think

if your loops are kept under the 300 foot maximum and your gpm is within the recomended flow charts, your return temps should be able to be kept 10 to 20 degrees below delivery temps. remember a .1 gpm increase = 5 btu per square foot

Willie, been trying to understand the last part in red.  If 1 gpm is good for 10,000 btu/hr , then .1 would be good for 1,000? (with 20 deg. D t)  How do you figure 5 btu/sq.ft. increase?  Each 1000 btu/hr for 1500 sq. ft. as in this case would be .666 btu/sq.ft.?   I'm probably missing something, wouldn't be the first time.  Also, that would be btu available, not necessarily what the floor would emit.

1/4 gpm in 5 loops would be 1-1/4 gpm so a possible 12,500 btu/hr.  from the 1500 sq.ft. slab. (20 deg.Dt) Under slab insulation would be a big plus.