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[Roger2561]

Hi all;  Looking for help with a project not OWB related.

My younger brother and I are remodeling a room which used to be my parents bedroom when we kids were growing up.  We're trying to bring the floor back to it's original condition - Nice fir planks approximately 3 to 4 inches wide.  They were treated with perhaps a varnish or shellac to protect it.  We'll be renting a floor sander to get the old stuff off.  1st question:  I know I need to use a somewhat aggressive sandpaper to get the years of varnish or shellac buildup removed.  What grit sandpaper would I use as a finish sanding?  2nd question:  The look we're looking for is, whatever we use to protect the floor, it doesn't make it too dark like the varnish or shellac did.  Any ideas what to use?  Thanks Roger

[mlappin]

We used a polyurethane on our cabinets that had the stain already in it. Dozens of different shades and colors available as well as gloss, semi gloss, flat, etc. Start light and if you want darker another coat can be applied. My Dad also used the same stuff on the house he bought last spring after sanding the floors.

Stuff we used is Polyshades by Minwax.

[Roger2561]

Thanks for the tip.  I'll probably be back seeking further help.  Roger

[Big Wood]

When you first sand the floors go at a 45 degree across the boards taking you rented a drum sander and edger this will keep the floor  level as you get the old off also if you get a little wood scraper it works good in the corners for the stuff you can't get  with the edger as far as finish  PARKS
Polyurethane is very nice if they still  make it  3 coats have fun

[coolidge]

There was a polyurethane I was going to get from Sherwin Williams ( they had to order it )that is harder the bowling alley finish, the only problem was you needed to have a fresh air mask on while applying it.

[mlappin]

There was a polyurethane I was going to get from Sherwin Williams ( they had to order it )that is harder the bowling alley finish, the only problem was you needed to have a fresh air mask on while applying it.

Yep, I had a polyurethane based paint I tried on a grain truck frame at one time, there recommendation was wait till a calm day and paint it outside.

[atvalaska]

Run for your life from poly shades !!….it goes on ...not IN ......run !!!!

[Trint]

Finnish grit will be 60 or 80, can't remember exactly what I used when I did our hard floors.  As said above go at an angle with a drum type, I didn't and have a few groves in that floor now.  Finished with stain and poly here although that many not be what you want.

[Cabo]

You got that right ATV.  That stuff is a PITA.  Shouldn't even be on the market.

[mlappin]

You got that right ATV.  That stuff is a PITA.  Shouldn't even be on the market.

Huh? We didn’t have any problems when we used it on our kitchen cabinets. Let first coat dry, uber fine steel wool, blow off, hit with tack cloth and apply second coat. Easy peasy compared to staining first then applying poly.

[Cabo]

The problem I've experienced and seen others have is the stain separates from the poly and you get a blotchy finish.  Just my $.02

[mlappin]

The problem I've experienced and seen others have is the stain separates from the poly and you get a blotchy finish.  Just my $.02

Ahh….maybe they’ve improved the formulation since then? It wasn’t but a few years ago we did the kitchen.

[atvalaska]

Chip it if u catch a f-nail ...bare wood is what ya get ....run run I tell ya 😀