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[Scott7m]

Ive seen my share of them, most were under sheds, my point was more that they were exposed to the elements such as humidity/moisture, dirt, dust and all theist instead of inside the protection of a warm/dry insulated case.

[fryedaddy]

Yes people do install them in sheds but that's not what they are designed for.

They are designed to be installed in a shop that is closed from the elements.

If you would like to pay a premium he does offer a version with the stove being closed in and a small shed
for your wood.

[fryedaddy]

This is a link to the #1 style stove.

http://www.hickswaterstoves.com/Graphics/No.1/IndexNo1.html

Each stove varies per the owners request but this is a sample.

He will make anything you want. I've seen him build a gasser
from plans someone else gave him.

[jack1243]

Thanks Fryedaddy for your thoughts on the HICKS. I got it used at an Esate Sale and it was pretty gummed up from mis-use but I got a killer deal on it for about 1/2 what a new one was going to cost. I've played witht he dampers and got that pretty well set like it is needed I've loaded 3 times in the last 48 hours and the lowest temp I've had is 160 ish. Now, I have the center firebox with the cleanout on the right side if you are facing the stove. The 6 4" tubes to the 8" flue coller running to my chimeny. The manual says to clean those once a month... I've found it needs to be done every 2 or 3 days since I've also been cleaning the previous gunk out. I need to know if I need to run a flue brush up my stack just to make sure there is nothing blocking the path to the chimeny. Any thoughts on this would be helpful as you have a Hicks from what I've seen. Thanks, Jack

[fryedaddy]

Jack,

My current and previous stoves use metal flues. My previous used a 1/8-3/16" steel pipe
and my current uses a Stainless pipe. I can just take a broom handle on my current and hit it a few times
while the stove is hot to knock creosote out.

I would recommend cleaning your flue twice a season if your. I would also recommend cleaning it very soon
if you have been running it with the dampers open.

Have you spoke with Mark about your setup? Don't be afraid to call and speak with him.

Also have you added any water treatment to your stove? He carries something called C10
if you haven't any it will make the stove last a very long time.

[jack1243]

Fryedaddy, I'm going to see Mark and the gang a day or two after Chirstmas. I need a 1/2 moon scraper and a new brush as all I got was a handle with the stove. I can tap my pipe and get some lose build up from it and the cleanout box is dripping once and a while into my steel bucket I put under it. I just want to make sure it's doing as good as it can do. I mean 500 gallons of hot water is a lot of water. I closed the dampers minus 1/4th turn yesterday as most on here recomended and the temp got to 180 the blower shut off and it held into the night sometime. I last checked it at midnight and it was at 190 with the blower off. This morning as the kids are on exam schedule and Ididn't have to take any of them... I slept in til 6am. Went out and the temp was around 150. Had a nice bed of coals raked and leveled them out and loaded the stove. It took til about 11am to get back to 180 and cut the blower off. I assume I'm doing things right as I just came in and only loaded about 8 pieces of oak in the firebox. I'm waiting to see how it does when we really get some cold weather but all in all I'm well pleased with my stove. Only change I'd make might be an end loading unit instead of this side unit. To me it seems odd fo draw the firebox draft from the side of the firebox. Guess that is from a long line of coal stove users growing up everything went throught he top of the stove or the back....but never the side. My Dad shook his head and said, "All my years I've never seen a stove made to draft from the side...let me know how that works out for you." Got to love Dad's! Thanks for your comments and suggestions. I've also seen where some folks are using a little coal in their units. I've got a ton of stoker coal under the house where the old boiler was years ago. Any thoughts on coal to help lengthen burn time?

[fryedaddy]

Jack,

Does your stove have the cast iron door on it with hicks embosed?
5hrs does seam like a long time to raise the temp that much.

I like the end door, the fire tubes are much longer. I can't compare
my previous stove with my newer one. I didn't have a aquastat, it
went out before I purchased the house and I ran it 3yrs without it.

If I get home and throw wood in it at 150 it will get to 180 in a little
over an hour (750 Gallon size though).

Cleaning it is a little easier, I'm able to stand in front of the firebox
and push the cleanout brush straight through to the back box.

He's also installed water tubes in the top of my firebox and it seams to
work fairly well. Overall I love mine and am use to the stove being inclosed
in my garage.

[jack1243]

Yes. cast iron door with HICKS on the top and two knob dampers at the bottom. I've got the installer coming tomorrow and the chimney guy... somethings up with the draw on the stove. It's not drawing like it did and I feel we've got something in the pipe or the actual flue blocked. I'll keep ya posted.

[coonsrich@yahoo.com]

Mentioned earlier.  I had problems with 10 foot long 8 inch dia steel pipe, finally went with 8 inch dia insulated stainless 8 feet high and what a difference.  My dampers shut down tight and any wood in firebox becomes charcoal ,when it calls for heat again the damper opens ,the blower comes on and the h20 temp goes from 165 to 190 in 10 minutes or less.  No smoke and no smoldering, hard to believe.    Sounds like you have a very tall small chimney. Hope you solve it.