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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water Treatment
« on: November 19, 2010, 03:24:09 PM »For less than $10 you can use water balancers for hot tubs.....
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Pro Pex Connection
« on: October 15, 2010, 10:28:20 PM »
Yep, filled everything last week with glycol mix and cranked on the pumps. Bled air and absolutely no leaks. Wirsbo works like a charm. 
All that's left to do is permantely secure and fasten everything to the wall and she's all good.
Also finished the exterior of my new shop.... warm as toast for finishing the interior.
All that's left to do is permantely secure and fasten everything to the wall and she's all good.
Also finished the exterior of my new shop.... warm as toast for finishing the interior.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: new trench
« on: October 15, 2010, 10:01:03 PM »
Thoughts on renting a stand behind mini hoe? Four hundred bucks and it would be done in a day.....
We got 4" of snow here today...... my lines to the hot tub are only 24" down..... no heat loss, you should be good to go.
We got 4" of snow here today...... my lines to the hot tub are only 24" down..... no heat loss, you should be good to go.
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Fire Wood / Re: Hauling my wood home from the woods
« on: September 25, 2010, 04:55:42 PM »
How do you get it onto the splitter?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Pro Pex Connection
« on: September 19, 2010, 08:40:15 PM »
This is the first time I have used this type of connection.
I am able to still turn a fitting like a 90 even after it has went back to its original shape.
Is this normal?
I am able to still turn a fitting like a 90 even after it has went back to its original shape.
Is this normal?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Launched my website today
« on: September 19, 2010, 08:32:39 PM »
Site looks great!
Professional, informative, good layout and easy too read.
Maybe a testimony section from some of your happy customers?
Good job.
Professional, informative, good layout and easy too read.
Maybe a testimony section from some of your happy customers?
Good job.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Snow melting....
« on: September 19, 2010, 08:21:05 PM »
I have no eves troughs on any of my buildings. Being treed in causes major ice damming during the freeze thaw periods in the winter months. I got sick of chipping away at ice and shoveling snow. So when I decided to put in my new buildings, I installed a couple zones for my side walks and garage apron. The elevation of my garage compared to my finished asphalt was allot higher so the steepness of the apron was a concern. (20" on 10')
Has anyone else done this? What temperature did you set your zones at?
Here is a pic of my apron:
Has anyone else done this? What temperature did you set your zones at?
Here is a pic of my apron:
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: How do you install in a 200 year old house?
« on: September 19, 2010, 07:40:06 PM »
Could a forced air unit with ductwork run up both floors on the outside of the home like a typical chimney chase? Having the heat exchangers and fans installed in a well insulated chase would cut down the sound and still be cost effective renovation wise.
Building the chase to blend into the homes exterior 200 year decor could also be a good selling feature.....
Building the chase to blend into the homes exterior 200 year decor could also be a good selling feature.....
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: What's even more important...
« on: September 19, 2010, 07:30:36 PM »Looks like your doing a good job.. Have you ever considered spray foam insulation in those walls? It will give you a higher r value than the fibergllass bat. Plus gives you a vapor barrier.
One of the easiest to install and helpful insulation I have found is a material called prodex. You can wrap your house with it, put it under your metal roofing, or many other things. It's a really good proudct and it's only about 5mm thick and gives a r value of 15.8. It has a 99.7% vapor barrier and is highly reflective. It's around 200 dollars for a roll that is 700sq ft. Well worth it in my opinion.
The home I currently reside in is a NASCOR R 2000 home which is very efficient. The building in the photo above is of my two story garage .....and the second building which framing starts tomorrow, is my studio/office. I went with batt insulation in theses buildings for two reasons....the cost and being able to do the insulating myself. Air tight R24 walls and a R 44 vaulted attic space should keep things toasty and efficient. Also the fact that i am completely treed in with no wind, the exterior wrapped in TYvek and select tight knot cedar siding, it should make the difference in how much wood I use.
My cedar overhead doors which are being installed tomorrow are suppose to be R 12 which I highly doubt. The glass on the top panels from what I've read are only single pane.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / What's even more important...
« on: September 19, 2010, 08:03:36 AM »
.... is the efficiency of the space you are trying to heat.
I see folks post about the square footage they are heating, the amount of cords they consume per week, and how the claims of the boiler manufacturers are out to lunch..... and I say: Who cares?
I mean, if the space you are heating is as efficient as if it had a 20' hole in the roof, does it really matter?
When I hear guys saying they will burn 12-18 cords of hard wood this winter (and seem happy about it), it blows me away. i couldn't fathom even thinking about burning that amount of wood. Last year in my air tight, I heated my entire 2691sf high efficiency home with just over 4 cords. That was burning softwood in western Canada, burning 24/7 and running my LifeBreath system at least 12 hours a day in -30 weather.
Yesterday I spent the day with a couple helpers insulating my new building. I personally inspected and remediated every area that had the possibility for heat loss. I spent more time and money where it counts..... in the design, construction techniques, building material .....to gain the most efficient building in respect to how much time and effort it will take to heat it.
If the building that is being heated is efficent, maybe the OWB manufacturers claims are more closer to the truth?
I will soon see.
I see folks post about the square footage they are heating, the amount of cords they consume per week, and how the claims of the boiler manufacturers are out to lunch..... and I say: Who cares?
I mean, if the space you are heating is as efficient as if it had a 20' hole in the roof, does it really matter?
When I hear guys saying they will burn 12-18 cords of hard wood this winter (and seem happy about it), it blows me away. i couldn't fathom even thinking about burning that amount of wood. Last year in my air tight, I heated my entire 2691sf high efficiency home with just over 4 cords. That was burning softwood in western Canada, burning 24/7 and running my LifeBreath system at least 12 hours a day in -30 weather.
Yesterday I spent the day with a couple helpers insulating my new building. I personally inspected and remediated every area that had the possibility for heat loss. I spent more time and money where it counts..... in the design, construction techniques, building material .....to gain the most efficient building in respect to how much time and effort it will take to heat it.
If the building that is being heated is efficent, maybe the OWB manufacturers claims are more closer to the truth?
I will soon see.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / How do you start your fire?
« on: September 17, 2010, 09:25:36 PM »
I start mine with a Tiger torch off a 20 lbs propane tank. Quick, easy and no hassle.
Here is a pic:
Here is a pic:
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Spray Insulation
« on: September 17, 2010, 09:08:46 PM »Hey Willie, investigate soy based insul spray. Soy veggie oil mixed with some kind of plastic chemical concoction. Very minimal flex but in my opinion no need to wrap it in anything else, although I suppose it wouldn't hurt.it's good to hear you are having great results with your pipes . I had good luck with mine 11 years ago but they have deteriated over the years and i will be replacing them this fall yet (i think) i am leaning toward the 6 inch tile witht two lines surrounded by foam..then i am gonna pu t that down another 8 inch non perfed tile. (i'm thinking here that not only will the second tile protect it more but the insulated line can now "move" a little if expansion and contraction with the heat makes it "grow" also i am thinking "dead air" around the lines has got to be better than damp soil and heat loss should be very minimul.
Last night we got 3" of heavy snow and I ran straight out to my freshly buried lines, then straight to my gauges.
A .3 diiffernce in temperature from my boiler to the heat exchanger at my furnace.
there is a farm show near me next week i am hoping to score a better deal on pipe there. there should be about 6 dealers at that show, i may be able to work them a bit and save a few dollars
Thats why i wrapped my 1.5 inch pex with the 1/2 inch foam insulation first.....to allow for the small amount of expansion that is expected...... and for the possibility that the chemicals in the "green" foam would protect the pex from some sort of deterioration.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Spray Insulation
« on: September 17, 2010, 08:59:12 PM »Deer around here are like rats. This is what was in my back yard this morning.... snapped this pic from my bedroom window buck nekid.....
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Spray Insulation
« on: September 17, 2010, 08:49:20 PM »thats good...... where in the world do you live getting 3"of snow already?
I'm in Bragg Creek Alberta, on the side of Banded Peak mountain. Suppose to snow again tonight but won't stay.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Spray Insulation
« on: September 17, 2010, 08:34:58 PM »
Hey Willie, investigate soy based insul spray. Soy veggie oil mixed with some kind of plastic chemical concoction. Very minimal flex but in my opinion no need to wrap it in anything else, although I suppose it wouldn't hurt.
Last night we got 3" of heavy snow and I ran straight out to my freshly buried lines, then straight to my gauges.
A .3 diiffernce in temperature from my boiler to the heat exchanger at my furnace.
Last night we got 3" of heavy snow and I ran straight out to my freshly buried lines, then straight to my gauges.
A .3 diiffernce in temperature from my boiler to the heat exchanger at my furnace.
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