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[Roger2561]

I don't have a CB but the owner of the OWB company I bought from said cleaning the fire box and
back box in my case then spraying with high temp paint yearly would be a good practice.

He doesn't follow that procedure on his own stove but said it may increase longevity.

fryedaddy - Interesting.  Thanks for the info.  Roger

[Jack72]

Boilerman, what would be some bad burning practices?  I`m good on the cleaning and maint. part. Dont need any problems  if I can help.

Pit Crew
   as far as some tips                      I dont know about the regular classics because they burn different than a e-classic (which you have)     but alot of e-classic users from earlier posts that I have read  they are keeping the water temps down and run times down when its fairly warm during the day and cool at night         In my opinion the longer it runs the more it has a chance to get into High burn in the reaction chamber the less cresote buildup your going to have.     so when my stove kicks on it runs with a 10-15 degree diffential and shuts off at between 193-195 maybe IM thinking wrong but the hotter its ran the cleaner the inside will stay.   What do you think about my thinking???                     Boilerman and Roger             

[Roger2561]

Boilerman, what would be some bad burning practices?  I`m good on the cleaning and maint. part. Dont need any problems  if I can help.

Pit Crew
   as far as some tips                      I dont know about the regular classics because they burn different than a e-classic (which you have)     but alot of e-classic users from earlier posts that I have read  they are keeping the water temps down and run times down when its fairly warm during the day and cool at night         In my opinion the longer it runs the more it has a chance to get into High burn in the reaction chamber the less cresote buildup your going to have.     so when my stove kicks on it runs with a 10-15 degree diffential and shuts off at between 193-195 maybe IM thinking wrong but the hotter its ran the cleaner the inside will stay.   What do you think about my thinking???                     Boilerman and Roger           

If people who own e-classics are letting their temps operate at 150 degrees, they're asking for trouble due to condensation building up in the fire box and mixing with the creosote.  The creosote then becomes very acidic and will shorten the life of the OWB.  Central Boiler set my e-classic 1400 up with a thermostatic valve that when it detects that water is approaching 150, it sends the water back to the OWB to be warmed to the level above 150.  This is designed to protect the OWB from the problems I mentioned above.

My OWB high point is set to 185 and low point at 177.  The pulse is set to 8 minutes for 50 seconds.  This setting seems to work the best for me.  Does this help?  Roger

[dwneast77]

Older E2300s are set at 5 degree differential and are not changable.  I'm running 180 to 185 range right now.  Good all around I think.  I max it out at the high 195 when I start my greenhouses and need all the heat I can get.  The more falling room I have the better off I am.

[boilerman]

Boilerman, what would be some bad burning practices?  I`m good on the cleaning and maint. part. Dont need any problems  if I can help.

Pit Crew, Here are my thoughts and experiences: Bad burning practices in my mind include burning garbage and trash . These are heating appliances, not incinerators. You ever have a burn barrel? How long do they last? 1 or 2 years is what I've found. It's not the heat the eats them up, but the acid from the burning garbage. I believe it does the same thing to an OWF. I've burned nothing but natural wood in my units, consistant with my cleaning/maintenence practices and have never had a corrosion issue. I also think it is important to keep your water temps up. There's a reason factory set points on most all brand furnaces is in the 180-190 degree range. I've found it keeps the firebox drier with less creosote build up in both a traditional and a gasser model, which should be better for the metals and less condensation to activate the acidity of the ash.

[boilerman]

Boilerman, what would be some bad burning practices?  I`m good on the cleaning and maint. part. Dont need any problems  if I can help.

Pit Crew
   as far as some tips                      I dont know about the regular classics because they burn different than a e-classic (which you have)     but alot of e-classic users from earlier posts that I have read  they are keeping the water temps down and run times down when its fairly warm during the day and cool at night         In my opinion the longer it runs the more it has a chance to get into High burn in the reaction chamber the less cresote buildup your going to have.     so when my stove kicks on it runs with a 10-15 degree diffential and shuts off at between 193-195 maybe IM thinking wrong but the hotter its ran the cleaner the inside will stay.   What do you think about my thinking???                     Boilerman and Roger           

Jack, I think you are dead on with your theory and experience. I have found the same results. It doesn't seem to take any more wood to hold those higher temps either. I have my set point at 190, it frequently overshoots by 4-6 degrees, so runs up to 195 or so anyway. If I set at 195 it high limits out on the overshoot, if it hits 200.

[sam-tip]

As a owner of a 2011 E3200 this post has me worried.   I have had many problem but no leaks yet.   I did have to replace the primary air inlet tube because of rust.  It just fell apart when I cleaned it last spring 2012.  With the new springs on the covers I hope this one lasts longer.  I keep my set point at 192 - 195.  I am now going to do another water test. Just for peace of mind.

This year I have had solenoid problems from the controller.   I have found it burns hotter if I unhook the secondary high solenoid.  It forces more air into the primary burn chamber by only using the low secondary solenoid. Otherwise it just pushes all the air out the two secondary tubes and the E3200 burns cold and smokes allot.   The E3200 has change allot from 2011 to 2012.  The primary air channels look much bigger.  Less restrictive and have added air holes.  I feel the 2011 E3200 does have a few design flaws.  Controller programming problems and primary air flow issues. 

[sam-tip]

Pictures of the primary chamber for the 2011 E3200 and a 2012 E3200 attached.



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[loneryder]

Are these leaking problems just in the "E" boilers?  I have a Classic and it has plenty of creosote on the interior.  It seems to bubble up and fall into the fire and is burned.  How do you get the black shiney coating off??  I scraped as best I could at the spring shutdown.  Is there any way to keep it off the interior??
5036 CB

[dwneast77]

loneryder -  I've not heard many bad things about the Classic models.  But I do know someone (distant relative of mine) that had a Classic, not sure what model.  At 6 years old his had a leak.  After trying to deal with CB to get it fixed he decided to just get rid of it.  His leak was on the outside of the water jacket rather than in the firebox.