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[swede]

I highly recommend the Badger 5 wrap pipe and believe that it is the best that money can buy.  http://badgerpipe.3dcartstores.com/

Our Shaver 165 is completely stock and works well.   Learned quickly that creosote will plug the chimney so built a scraper/cleaner that can be used from the ground.  I take about 30 seconds every few days to run it through the chimney.  Next year I will have seasoned wood and am contemplating a couple of the mods suggested on this board so maybe the unit will get even better.

[RSI]

I agree about the 5 wrap but you can get it cheaper through dealers. I sell it for less than they do direct.

[woodman]

This is just my thought and I know not everyone will agree with me here but, if your pipe is going to be buried where the water table flucuates I would be nervious to put in anything other than logstor.   

[tshepler]

RSI what is your price per foot on the 5 wrap and what is your contact info.

[RSI]

I don't usually try selling stuff here. You can find my website with a google search real easy.

[lugnut]

Ok Shep is fine lug. I live in PA pretty cold. Not like the midwest. I am going to wait till spring to do the lines. I have a backhoe so digging them up is not hard. I have a Ranco thermostat hooked up although it shorted because the leak from the back of the tank got water on the unit. I am ordering another ranco. Is it a bad idea to drill a hole through the dhw plate and insert the ranco sensor directly into the water?  I will work on other corrections first and will do lines this spring or summer.

Still would like recommendation on a fan.

Regarding the Ranco.....okay, since you haven't siliconed the top plate in yet...don't.  Here's what you have to do regarding the Ranco, actually you can do this one of two ways.  You have to either "make" or "buy" a dry well.  "The probe on the end of the sensor wire on the Ranco can NOT go directly into the water. "   I cheated and went to Menard's and bought a 12" copper tube that was soldered and coned on the bottom; then I bought a male adapter to solder on to the opposite end so that the dry well would not slide into the tank.  Most fellas on here have done it the easier was because they may have had tubing lying around...I didn't.  Take a piece of copper tubing 12" long by 1/4 or 1/2" and solder a cap on the bottom; get a male adapter and solder that on the other end, again so it will NOT fall into the tank.

NOW since you haven't siliconed that plate in, I would remove the plate altogether and take it where ever and drill a hole into that plate, preferably 2" from the rear most edge ....make the hole the SAME size as the copper tube.  put the plate back into it's frame and THEN silicone the snot out of it.....take the dry well tube and slide it into the hole and then (THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT) silicone "carefully" around the male adapter really good.  You might want to hold onto the center of it with one finger and then silicone with the other hand.....drop that probe into the well and voila!  You're done with that part.   Now, I will NOT even begin to tell you how to wire that bad boy up....I cheated, I called in the professionals.

Next......


Jerry

[tree climber]

as for the fan open back door look and see if fan is turning  when motor is runing. if it is unbolt it and make sure there is nothing blocking hole. also make sure grates are not stoped up with thick ash

[knight]

Get the 75 cfm blower with solenoid.  i think you can get it from altheatsupply.com.  Hope this helps.

[tree climber]

you can get a bigger fan but its not going to help if its not getting in fire box. if my side cover on fan was open over half way it would boil over

[Windwalker7]

To save me some typing, read this and click on my links


http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=756.msg4757;topicseen#msg4757

[6pacmac]

I highly recommend the Badger 5 wrap pipe and believe that it is the best that money can buy.  http://badgerpipe.3dcartstores.com/

Our Shaver 165 is completely stock and works well.   Learned quickly that creosote will plug the chimney so built a scraper/cleaner that can be used from the ground.  I take about 30 seconds every few days to run it through the chimney.  Next year I will have seasoned wood and am contemplating a couple of the mods suggested on this board so maybe the unit will get even better.

    Thats the pex I have.   No melted snow.  I want to get a heat temperature reader gun thing and check the temp at the boiler and at the house.   Its supposedly rated at like .6 degree f heat loss at 500'.   We will see when I get that heat meter.

[tree climber]

so how is the 165 doing or still having problems

[tshepler]

Well I cleaned up my wiring and sealed the dhw plate. I replaced the fan and found out mine was not working. The motor ran but was not spinning the blades so no air. I also insulated the furnace. It seems to be running very well. I am putting my new Ranco on tonight. I made a drywell from copper. 

I still have two questions.

What temp and differential should i set my ranco at? Remember I am losing someheat underground but dont want my fan running constantly.

I sealed the dhw as best i could. However there is a significant gap in the back the metal plate sits flat but the metal near the stove pipe is arched like it bent how should i seal that. Also at the front of the dhw plateon either side their are to big gaps down below the aluminum siding how do you seal those. I did not want to drop silicone into the tank.

Other than that I am very happy with stove right now.

[tree climber]

i would put in sulation between siding. as for dhw plate i got a large tube of hi temp cylicone from auto parts store and put in caulk gun makes wider beed. glad to here things are looking up.

[Outdoor Wood Furnace Info]

Kudos to forum members trying to help tshepler.  So cool to have these things posted...no doubt your words of advice will live on and help many others in the future with similar issues.  Hopefully the google crawlers pick up on the specific problems/solutions and yield good search results when people search.