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Portage & Main / Re: Retiring an ML30
« on: March 22, 2020, 07:26:14 PM »What year model is it?
Tag says Build Date 11/11/10
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Portage & Main / Retiring an ML30
« on: March 21, 2020, 06:15:57 AM »
Hello everyone, it has been a while since I have logged in here and I hope you all are well.
Well, I have enjoyed my wood boiler for a long time but I am no longer able to cut the wood with my back in its current state. I have held onto it for a year and it is clear that it needs to be sold as I will not be using it anymore. It has been so long since I have been in the market or in touch for one I do not know what they are worth new or used. Since this one is used I don't know if it is worth anything or not. I know the EPA made this type of unit obsolete but I know people still use them as I see them around.
If this should be put in the For Sale section please do so and I apologize, just getting a feel for its worth.
I would like to offer it to this community first but I need an honest opinion of what it is worth. I would sell everything as a whole.
I have:
3 water to air heat exchangers (2 16x18's and a 18x19)
1 Water to water plate exchanger (hex bl14-20d)
2 TaCo pumps
I have all the sharkbite fittings but they are used and I don't think I would reuse them but I kept them all the same.
over 150' of the 4" plastic spray foam insulated black pipe
Portage and Main ML30. The good: Unit has been covered entire life of service. Bad: Unit did overheat the second year of use ( I left the ash door open a crack
) but did not suffer any cracks or other structural damage as I used it for many years after without any issues.
I believe this stove has plenty of life left in it and would be good for someone.
Thanks
Well, I have enjoyed my wood boiler for a long time but I am no longer able to cut the wood with my back in its current state. I have held onto it for a year and it is clear that it needs to be sold as I will not be using it anymore. It has been so long since I have been in the market or in touch for one I do not know what they are worth new or used. Since this one is used I don't know if it is worth anything or not. I know the EPA made this type of unit obsolete but I know people still use them as I see them around.
If this should be put in the For Sale section please do so and I apologize, just getting a feel for its worth.
I would like to offer it to this community first but I need an honest opinion of what it is worth. I would sell everything as a whole.
I have:
3 water to air heat exchangers (2 16x18's and a 18x19)
1 Water to water plate exchanger (hex bl14-20d)
2 TaCo pumps
I have all the sharkbite fittings but they are used and I don't think I would reuse them but I kept them all the same.
over 150' of the 4" plastic spray foam insulated black pipe
Portage and Main ML30. The good: Unit has been covered entire life of service. Bad: Unit did overheat the second year of use ( I left the ash door open a crack
) but did not suffer any cracks or other structural damage as I used it for many years after without any issues.I believe this stove has plenty of life left in it and would be good for someone.
Thanks
3
Fire Wood / Re: Looking for semi load of wood in Michigan...
« on: May 06, 2014, 07:35:10 PM »
Yeah I guess I should have tried to figure that one out. I don't have any wood for next year stacked or cut yet. I burned most of next years wood this year. It was a looooong winter
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Fire Wood / Re: Looking for semi load of wood in Michigan...
« on: May 06, 2014, 07:09:25 PM »
What is CSS'ing mean?
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Fire Wood / Re: Looking for semi load of wood in Michigan...
« on: May 06, 2014, 02:37:46 PM »
Wow, that seems a bit steep for wood. I almost think I would rather put up with scavenging for wood then pay 2000 dollars...
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Fire Wood / Looking for semi load of wood in Michigan...
« on: May 06, 2014, 06:03:11 AM »
Hey all you Michigan burners! I am looking to buy my wood for the next coming years. I am getting tired of looking for wood to cut and having to travel long distances to get it. Is there a good company to buy wood from by the semi-load? I am in the Mayville area and used to drive to Flint area to get those awesome Ash trees the city was cutting down all over the place. Since I no longer work in that area I don't really feel the need to drive there any more. Any help would be awesome-sauce. Thanks
Brian
Brian
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Looking for size of heat exchanger needed for woodshop
« on: April 20, 2014, 08:38:30 PM »
Hey thanks for all the great responses. I should have told you guys that I will be heating the shop all the time so my equipment does not get hot-cold start-ups. Because I was in a sort of panic, I ended up using a 100kbtu heat exchanger, which may be overkill, but the last time I went in my shop I had crazy moisture all over my wood working tools which caused rust. ...just over a span of a couple of days without going in there. The 100k BTU exchanger works great. It is actually more than adequate to heat less than 600sqft of well insulated space. I ended up putting a simple box fan and leaving it on low at an angle blowing towards the ceiling to keep the temp at a very comfortable 62 degrees. Now I can clean up my stuff with steel wool to clean the rust. Thanks for all the help everyone. It is appreciated.
Brian
...just over a span of a couple of days without going in there. The 100k BTU exchanger works great. It is actually more than adequate to heat less than 600sqft of well insulated space. I ended up putting a simple box fan and leaving it on low at an angle blowing towards the ceiling to keep the temp at a very comfortable 62 degrees. Now I can clean up my stuff with steel wool to clean the rust. Thanks for all the help everyone. It is appreciated.Brian
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Looking for size of heat exchanger needed for woodshop
« on: April 14, 2014, 07:38:54 AM »
How big of a heat exchanger would I need for a well insulated 24x24 pole barn? I have 6" of insulation the walls and 9" in the ceiling with ridge vent. I currently and heating with an P&M ML30, which for the last couple years is awesome. It heats my 1500 sq ft house and my 30x40 workshop. I smile when I think of how much money I save not buying fuel oil to heat just my house.. 
.....especially this last winter...it was a cold one here in Michigan. Went through a lot of wood. Anyway, is there some sort of figuring or method to figure this out? Thanks for any help!
Brian
.....especially this last winter...it was a cold one here in Michigan. Went through a lot of wood. Anyway, is there some sort of figuring or method to figure this out? Thanks for any help!Brian
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: first fire today
« on: September 15, 2013, 04:53:22 PM »
Just fired mine up today....tired of it being chilly in here. Also good time to see if there is a problem.
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Portage & Main / Re: ML30 Shutdown for the summer. What to do?
« on: May 24, 2013, 08:05:04 PM »
Thanks!
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Portage & Main / Re: ML30 Shutdown for the summer. What to do?
« on: May 11, 2013, 05:08:06 PM »
PM'd
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Portage & Main / ML30 Shutdown for the summer. What to do?
« on: May 05, 2013, 07:01:50 AM »
I am wondering what to do with my ML30 now that I do not need it for heat? (it is warm enough to shut it off) Drain it? leave it full and let the pumps run?
Any help would be appreciated!
Brian
Any help would be appreciated!
Brian
13
Equipment / Re: The Atom Splitter screw type wood splitter
« on: October 22, 2012, 08:30:21 PM »
That doesn't even seem like an easy solution to splitting wood to me. Gotta have a tractor or skid steer, post hole digger apparatus, and buy that thing? I got a good used log hydraulic splitter for a third of the cost of that. I have never seen one of those in action either, I wonder if you can split small stuff that is cut or if you can only split uncut logs, and how small of a log could you split well? I think I will keep my log hydraulic log splitter! Just my two cents.
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Portage & Main / Re: ML30
« on: October 22, 2012, 08:04:32 PM »
Have you tried opening the front damper on the loading door? I had to do this to keep my fire going. It seems to help just enough......although I don't have a lot
of coals in the bottom of my burner, it does not seem to need them as it always starts and stops since I opened up the front damper. Mind you I only opened it
up a small portion. I am new to this wood stove as well, but have had to fidget with mine very little if at all unless I want to poke at the coals just out of boredom.
I don't know if this will help, but I hope it does. It certainly doesn't say much for the customer support that you received though does it? Hopefully I do not have any trouble
that I need to call them to sort out.
of coals in the bottom of my burner, it does not seem to need them as it always starts and stops since I opened up the front damper. Mind you I only opened it
up a small portion. I am new to this wood stove as well, but have had to fidget with mine very little if at all unless I want to poke at the coals just out of boredom.
I don't know if this will help, but I hope it does. It certainly doesn't say much for the customer support that you received though does it? Hopefully I do not have any trouble
that I need to call them to sort out.
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Portage & Main / Re: First time firing the new ML30..
« on: October 15, 2012, 07:42:28 PM »You have to keep the gases warm till they exit the stack that is the reason for the insuated flue pipe, you will have a plugged chimney very shortly.
What part of the chimney will plug up? The 12" culvert, or the 6" double insulated pipe to the culvert?
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