Print

[MattyNH]

Many of my customers change the setting depending on the weather. Most would not be running a furnace at 150 when its really cold out. I normally drop mine down to 150 when it gets above 40 and you only need a little heat. I normally run mine at 180 during the coldest part of winter. Like I said before, I'm sure there is a huge difference between furnaces made of mild steel or furnaces without ash pans and stainless furnaces with ash pans. I can't speak for the former because Heat Master only makes stainless furnaces including the gassifiers.

How much wood do you think your saving by dropping it down to 150? So you boiler fires back up at 140-145 to bring it back up to 150-155..Im only assuming what u have these set temps when its set at 150..Wouldn't you burn the same amount of wood  at set temp of 180F..(boiler on 170-175..off 180-185)..To me its the same burn time..Same wood consumption..

[victor6deep]

Its like keeping a ice cube out in 80 degree weather or 60 degree weather, the colder outside the more times a stove will cycle to keep the temp up which in turn uses more wood.

[willieG]

heat loss from your underground pipes is controlled by the delta and that is it.

if you have the pipes insulated there is still heat loss (agreed?)

if your water is 180 degrees and the ground tmeps are 180 degrees there would be no heat loss (fact..you should agree)

if your water was 180 degrees and the ground temp was 200 your water would actually warm up a bit(agreed?)

if your water was 180 and the ground was 50 there would be heat loss

if your water was 160 and the ground was 50 there would be less heat loss

if your water was 50 and the ground was 50 there would be no heat loss

this is based on teh water always moving the same gpm

[yoderheating]

Willie, you are correct. Most insulated pipe companies have claims on heat loss. I know its not a lot when you use good pipe but every little bit adds up.

[willieG]

Willie, you are correct. Most insulated pipe companies have claims on heat loss. I know its not a lot when you use good pipe but every little bit adds up.

take one pipe makers clain of a loss of just 1 degree in 100 feet of pipe at 5 gpm and a temp of 180 with a ground tmep of 32 degrees
that 1 degree comes from  about 40 pounds of water (5 gpm x 8 pounds a gallon) that is 40 btu loss to the ground per minute...60 min x 40 btu = 2400 btu per hour x 24 hours =57,600 btu per day x 150 (average days you run your OWB) = 8,640,000 btu lost to the ground for a heating season. that would work out to somewhere between (on a non gasser stove) 1/2 and 1 full cord of mixed hardwood

you are 100 percent right when you say "every little bit adds up"

[yoderheating]

I run 180ft of pipe to my house, many people run a lot more than that. Like I said, it may not be huge but by the end of the year I'm ready to save all the firewood I can.

[chillyhiker]

Saw this on a woodmaster in wv.....132 degrees ! 

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

[victor6deep]

I would say the majority of people around me are running 150-160. I know of a guy that runs his house and outbuilding at 120, I can only wonder when that thing is gonna start leaking. The coolest I will run is 160-170.

[Scott7m]

Saw this on a woodmaster in wv.....132 degrees !

 Was he low on wood or what?

[chillyhiker]

not sure.... it was at a road side stop ...they sell furniture,,,and i was just poking around while wife was inside. i didnt want to open the door. it was smoking a bit.

[victor6deep]

Probably burning green wood which that's what those stoves are suppose to burn

[CRJR]

i would guess somthing like this is how they would know if your stove got to hot

[CRJR]

link didnt work but google this irreversible thermal temperature indicator

[victor6deep]

Well, another heating season and the aquastat is locked at 150-165. I will let everyone know when it springs a leak, plan on buying a Ridgewood and doing the same thing. I know way to many people past 10yrs of use running 150-160 with zippo issues.

[LittleJohn]

Currently running a CB eClassic 2400 @ 180f, with 10-15 delta T (forgot to look again, before posting)

This is how the water goes thru the system, after leaving boiler

• Thru thermostatic mix valve (returns water to boiler is supply from OWB is below 140f)
• Thru FPHE (heat no transferred from open OWB system to closedloop system in structure)
• Thru a Modulating Mixing Valve (mixes water temps down to 110 for in-slab and 125 for unfloor radiant)
• Out to radiant floor
• Back to boiler

4th year, no problems yet, other than a STUPID CHECK VALVE when installing Mechanical room in house