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17
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 20, 2014, 12:50:08 PM »
Ha! We keep ours at 60, as the thermostat is downstairs and we spend most our time upstairs where it is a bit warmer anyway. Any warmer than that I think we'd melt! I imagine as my wife and I get older still we'll eventually appreciate a little more warmth, but when I go visit my folks (both near 80) I can't hardly sit its so hot at 72 or whatever they keep it at. 
18
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: On the scout for a new OWB for next winter
« on: February 17, 2014, 08:09:37 PM »
I do not know much about all the new, more efficient boilers available, but it seems to me that maintaining upper 70's temps while going through only 7 cords from October-April, especially considering those kind of temps and with 16 hour burn times - is already quite exceptional!
19
Fire Wood / Re: Bulk or pulp cords in So. MN.
« on: February 08, 2014, 09:27:22 AM »
The couple that I know and have talked to have said much the same thing. They're moving everything they can get their hands on and not slot of excess around.
20
Aqua-Therm / Re: Leaking pump screw?
« on: February 07, 2014, 09:55:37 PM »
That screw head is almost exactly what I have with the hole in the slot. The only difference is, mine doesn't "protrude" like the one you show. It's slightly sunken in
21
Aqua-Therm / Re: Leaking pump screw?
« on: February 07, 2014, 08:44:21 PM »
Couldn't tell you that. It's whatever AT supplied at the time ('96). Too old and dirty and dark for me to tell at the back if the stove. But I'll try to take a pic tomorrow. Can anyone tell me how to post a photo from an iPhone?
22
Aqua-Therm / Re: Leaking pump screw?
« on: February 07, 2014, 06:09:29 PM »
I'll have to see if I can take a pic and figure out how to post it here. This "screw" or at least the slotted head or whatever is there is down in a little hole or depression, so wrapping rubber around it won't work. I'll have to replace the flange. When it warms up
23
Aqua-Therm / Re: Leaking pump screw?
« on: February 07, 2014, 12:34:24 PM »
Hey Slim, I called AT and described my system. They said its on the flange, and they no longer have that flange and also recommended relaxing the flange. I can't shut it all down now and attempt this so I'll keep adding water I guess. Is there a silicone or something I could use to try to seal that u on a temporary basis? Thanks for your help.
24
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 06, 2014, 10:09:45 PM »
Very interesting thread. I feel for you Roxann. I have experienced (hopefully) just about every manner of problem I think is possible on the older Aquatherm I have. Have figured out most things on my own and really feel like I have a pretty good understanding of it now, save for the wiring and setup issue it's been plagued with since day one. However, I can't believe the trouble you are having with a brand new unit. Does it bother any one else that Bruce stopped over to check the stove but not to change out the parts that pretty much everyone agrees has to be the problem, or is it that he doesn't have them yet?
And does it bother anyone that Bruce, the dealer, the installer, the company themselves - nobody seems qualified to correctly diagnose and fix the problem? And that is if she can even get ahold of them or get them to call her back! I could be wrong but this sounds like some of the worst customer/product service I've ever heard of. Hopefully they get things figured out for you soon. It doesn't seem right to me.
And does it bother anyone that Bruce, the dealer, the installer, the company themselves - nobody seems qualified to correctly diagnose and fix the problem? And that is if she can even get ahold of them or get them to call her back! I could be wrong but this sounds like some of the worst customer/product service I've ever heard of. Hopefully they get things figured out for you soon. It doesn't seem right to me.
25
Fire Wood / Bulk or pulp cords in So. MN.
« on: February 06, 2014, 08:10:06 PM »
I've still got plenty of wood already cut and that I can cut, out on my 5 acres. Problem will be if we get too much more snow I won't be able to get the four wheeler around the woods to get it out. I've also left a few good dead trees standing near the driveway that I can pull out by hand. But I've been looking for some bulk log firewood to be delivered just in case. I can do the cutting. Know anyone selling bulk logs just south of the twin cities in Minnesota?
26
Aqua-Therm / Leaking pump screw?
« on: February 06, 2014, 07:37:28 PM »
I have an Aqua-Therm 145. The inline pump has a a "screw" for opening and closing the flange on the pump. Last week or two I've been dropping pressure (16 psi down to 10) over the course of a couple days. I've refilled and tried to bleed any air from the system but pressure still drops. So I started looking at everything closely and there is a bit of water in the hole on top of the pump where the screw is, plus a little bit of steam coming off it. So I think it's leaking right there and evaporating off so no obvious signs of leaking or dripping water.
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
27
Plumbing / Leak on pump
« on: February 06, 2014, 07:34:14 PM »
I have an Aqua-Therm 145. The inline pump has a a "screw" for opening and closing the flange on the pump. Last week or two I've been dropping pressure (16 psi down to 10) over the course of a couple days. I've refilled and tried to bleed any air from the system but pressure still drops. So I started looking at everything closely and there is a bit of water in the hole on top of the pump where the screw is, plus a little bit of steam coming off it. So I think it's leaking right there and evaporating off so no obvious signs of leaking or dripping water.
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
28
Electronics / Re: Aquastat setting
« on: February 06, 2014, 07:11:35 PM »
Slim,
You are correct except there is no fan outside in the shed, just the HX.
RSI,
I'll look for the silver box you describe. Are there any controls or anything on the outside of that box? Is the temp setting you're suggesting I adjust, the high heat sensor that ITO refers to?
And as far as getting the HX moved to the plenum, that will only work if I also extend the water pipe inside as well correct? Otherwise how would moving it in to the plenum allow it to draw any heat off the pipe if the pipe remains outside?
You are correct except there is no fan outside in the shed, just the HX.
RSI,
I'll look for the silver box you describe. Are there any controls or anything on the outside of that box? Is the temp setting you're suggesting I adjust, the high heat sensor that ITO refers to?
And as far as getting the HX moved to the plenum, that will only work if I also extend the water pipe inside as well correct? Otherwise how would moving it in to the plenum allow it to draw any heat off the pipe if the pipe remains outside?
29
Electronics / Re: Aquastat setting
« on: February 05, 2014, 07:54:28 PM »
Sorry for not being a little more clear and complete with my explanation. I will stick with the 180 by the way, that's how I was leaning. The boiler is outside in the shed. There is no fan outside in the shed, only in the propane furnace in the house. There are two large pipes, one for the warm air blowing into the house (into the plenum), the other is a cold air return from the house that feeds the HX out in the shed.
I realize this is not the most efficient system (forced air outside vs bring a longer run of water pipe into the house and then drawing the heat off via a HX), but until I can afford to run the pipes inside and add a HX or radiators it will have to do. However, it works surprisingly well especially if we can get into the teens or higher for temps. It's when the highs during the day are 0 or below and it gets down well below zero at night that is a problem.
So here's my next challenge: fixing it so the HX doesn't run so often without the furnace fan blowing hot air into the rest of the house. Said another way, whenever the room calls for heat and the HX kicks on, that the fan kicks in very shortly after and continues to heat the house so that it gets to temp faster and the fan kicks off, so does the HX. This should allow the wood to last longer by not losing as much heat from the water pipe.
One guy suggested I add a relay to sync the furnace fan with the HX so they're on at the same time. But he said I'd also have to run the 'warm air in' pipe thru the cold air return of the propane furnace instead of the plenum. This may be beyond me, plus that 10-12" PVC pipe I don't see how I could reroute that thru the return of the furnace.
So I'm wondering if something else is causing the problem. Are there limit switches or something in the furnace that may not be working, and that what is preventing the furnace fan from staying on longer?
Thanks guys!
I realize this is not the most efficient system (forced air outside vs bring a longer run of water pipe into the house and then drawing the heat off via a HX), but until I can afford to run the pipes inside and add a HX or radiators it will have to do. However, it works surprisingly well especially if we can get into the teens or higher for temps. It's when the highs during the day are 0 or below and it gets down well below zero at night that is a problem.
So here's my next challenge: fixing it so the HX doesn't run so often without the furnace fan blowing hot air into the rest of the house. Said another way, whenever the room calls for heat and the HX kicks on, that the fan kicks in very shortly after and continues to heat the house so that it gets to temp faster and the fan kicks off, so does the HX. This should allow the wood to last longer by not losing as much heat from the water pipe.
One guy suggested I add a relay to sync the furnace fan with the HX so they're on at the same time. But he said I'd also have to run the 'warm air in' pipe thru the cold air return of the propane furnace instead of the plenum. This may be beyond me, plus that 10-12" PVC pipe I don't see how I could reroute that thru the return of the furnace.
So I'm wondering if something else is causing the problem. Are there limit switches or something in the furnace that may not be working, and that what is preventing the furnace fan from staying on longer?
Thanks guys!
30
Electronics / Aquastat setting
« on: February 04, 2014, 11:17:51 PM »
Hi all, I'm new to this forum. Let's just say I wish I had found you all awhile ago. I have a '96 Aqua-therm model 145 (the smaller one). Came with the place when I bought it a few years later. I have several issues that I have basically been overcoming over the years, and have learned anything I know on my own. But I'll address them all separately, assuming I can/am able. Please bear with me while I explain.
So the older gentleman that added this unit to his existing propane forced air furnace seemed to have taken a bit of an unconventional route. Instead of running water pipe underground into the house and thru a heat exchanger inside, he built a shed to house the boiler not far from the house. He then did just a short run of water pipe inside the shed and thru a heat exchanger out there, then buried a 10 or 12" PVC pipe underground and into the basement furnace room and into the plenum of the propane furnace. So basically it's a forced air system with a very short run of pipe.
When the room thermostat calls for heat it kicks on the motor that drives the heat exchanger. The problem is that the heat exch runs for quite a while but the furnace fan only kicks on a few times during that time and blows warm air into the house for maybe ten seconds per time. So it's drawing heat off the water pipe continuously but not putting all that heat into the house. We'll address that a bit down the road.
My immediate question is what is generally recommended for the aqua stat setting between 160-180 that will allow the stove to keep up the heat without going thru the wood as fast? Am I better lower, say 170, where the stove can rebuild the heat quicker but I assume the air blown into the house is less warm, or 180 where it may take longer to get it back up to temp?
I'll follow up on the other questions, unless the answer to this one is related to fixing those first. I appreciate anyone who has stayed with me this far and is willing to offer some advice. Thanks!
So the older gentleman that added this unit to his existing propane forced air furnace seemed to have taken a bit of an unconventional route. Instead of running water pipe underground into the house and thru a heat exchanger inside, he built a shed to house the boiler not far from the house. He then did just a short run of water pipe inside the shed and thru a heat exchanger out there, then buried a 10 or 12" PVC pipe underground and into the basement furnace room and into the plenum of the propane furnace. So basically it's a forced air system with a very short run of pipe.
When the room thermostat calls for heat it kicks on the motor that drives the heat exchanger. The problem is that the heat exch runs for quite a while but the furnace fan only kicks on a few times during that time and blows warm air into the house for maybe ten seconds per time. So it's drawing heat off the water pipe continuously but not putting all that heat into the house. We'll address that a bit down the road.
My immediate question is what is generally recommended for the aqua stat setting between 160-180 that will allow the stove to keep up the heat without going thru the wood as fast? Am I better lower, say 170, where the stove can rebuild the heat quicker but I assume the air blown into the house is less warm, or 180 where it may take longer to get it back up to temp?
I'll follow up on the other questions, unless the answer to this one is related to fixing those first. I appreciate anyone who has stayed with me this far and is willing to offer some advice. Thanks!
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