Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Shaver Furnace => Topic started by: chrisl on January 30, 2014, 04:32:31 AM
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4 year old 165 top rusted out. Called Weld Rite, and I'm told that unless I can produce water sample results from a lab, no warranty. Well I've treated my Shaver with boiler treatment and water tested my self ever since I put this stove into use ( I'm Licensed Boiler Operator) I know a few things about boilers and how to operate them. No where in the warranty paper that came with my boiler did it say water samples had to be sent to a independent lab. I talked with my dealer he told me he has 5 boilers all sold the same time as was mine that the tops and bottoms have rusted out and Weld rite would not stand behind the boilers. Since then He told me that he told weld rite to shove it up their a*s and he is no longer a dealer for them.
So I tore into my boiler this last weekend. What a freaking Joke. A idiot must have designed this turd, or at minimum someone who has no concept fluid heat transfer.
1. First no-no the 6" head space in the water tank will not allow the metal to be protected from rust, the metal has to be immersed in water/boiler treatment to be protected this and inferior metal is why mine has rusted out. The water jacket should be full, all the way to the top.
2. You can not have the fire box end plates go completely out to the water jacket and get circulation and flow, this is why I can here mine boiling and yet only get 140 deg water going out because I'm using the same damn water in the 5" space between the back of the water jacket and the fire box support plate.
3. Back tank cover....What can I say it doesn't fit, what a joke, you can not get to it, to properly seal it unless the roof is off the boiler.
I patched my back together, because of -10 weather coming, did add some 1" 90's and 24" nipple to get my supply water coming from the center of the water tank. I will make plans this summer to tear the whole piece of Sh*t down and build it right. I would not recommend this boiler to anyone, if your considering this boiler I would look else where. I past up a Central boiler because I thought they were too expensive, in the long run now, It would have been a hell of a lot cheaper.
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I don't know how they continue to sell boilers with all this bad press. Especially when you can buy a ridgewood for less with twice the quality.
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Yep they are a joke. I had all the paperwork from my samples and they still wouldn't cover it. Had to replace bottom and top. Ran the return lines to the front of the tank, did away with the inspection plate and ran the vent out the top.
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did you use their boiler treatment or a treatment of your own. if you were using their treatment no tests are necessary. this is in there manual.
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did you use their boiler treatment or a treatment of your own. if you were using their treatment no tests are necessary. this is in there manual.
There manual aint worth the paper its written on..... Its a mess
I hate it for innocent folks who think there all the same and have to go through stuff like this.
Good luck chrisl
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did you use their boiler treatment or a treatment of your own. if you were using their treatment no tests are necessary. this is in there manual.
Back in 2009, i think, they recommended I use WoodBoilerSolutions. I did everything they required but it didn't help. They would tell me they were in talks with WBS but then WBS said they had no idea what I was talkin about.
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What I meant to ask was did you use the rust blocker that is advertised on there website. No testing needed for 5 years or something else?
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WoodBoilerSolution 101 is the stuff I used. There is so much slag in the bottom of those tanks for chemicals to work
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I wish now I would have taken a better look at the inside of the water tank when it was new. Leaving welding slag behind in an area such as this is pure crappy workmanship. They need to bear responsibility as crapty workmanship seems to be the problem in these failures in such a short time.
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I agree. The other problem is that there is no bottom drain to get rid of it.
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Weld Rite does not use flux rods or intercore flux mig wire. They use intersheild gas mig welders, there is no slag in gas shielding mig welders!
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
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Then where the hell does all the slag come from?
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Then where the hell does all the slag come from?
Could it be accumalated mill scale?
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Weld Rite does not use flux rods or intercore flux mig wire. They use intersheild gas mig welders, there is no slag in gas shielding mig welders!
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
Are u kidding. I know what slag is and so does my local welder that fixed my stove. Greg you must be the spokesman for Shaver. They are crap and u know it.
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Hold up for a minute, Greg is a dealer for shaver, the only one on this forum by the way, and he try's to be as helpful with shaver stuff as he can be. He wasn't trying to insult anyone's intelligence. I too wonder what all the crap is if it's not weld slag.
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Thanks Honda, Nice post
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Whatever it is, there all full of it!
I dont think saying its not one material vs another one really proves a darn thing. Why not tell us what the heck it is instead of arguing mute points, fact is ive seen several of them with the issue and read about many more
What is it? How does it get there? Where does it come from?
These are all essy legitimate questions
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Anyone have a solution for getting it out? That location on the boiler jacket is on the verge of inaccessible. I would consider draining/cleaning/ flushing during the off season if there is a reasonable way to do it! Maybe a evacuator system that is a giant water tank/vacuum used to clean tanks, locate sensitive/expensive utilities before digging???
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Has anyone tried a magnet on this material? Just wondered.
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
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Good suggestion Greg and I must say cudos to you for sticking around and trying to help even after the way you have been spoken to, Thank You.
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Thank you, slim jim, I know folks get upset when they have hard earned money invested. I try to overlook the tempers because I get mad myself sometimes!
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
e-mail: steinacher79@hotmail.com
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We all do sooner or later but the site does need people who represent the products and have a connection to the factory, that's how they know what's going on in the real world, Thanks again for being there and if you have any questions that you think I may be able to help with, I think you have my phone # if not PM me.
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I didnt stick a magnet to it, but ill agree with what others have said. Looks exactly like welding slag, but may not be, I donno
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I didn't mean to across like that. When we cut the bottom off the tank is was for sure slag. A lot of it.
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I am going to guess it is cutting torch slag.
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We cut it off with a plasma cutter.
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I meant cutting slag from the factory.
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I meant cutting slag from the factory.
probably is, it sure loooks like it.
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Thank you everyone for your comments and insight. I'm to the point of deciding whether to keep the shaver or not. If I do keep it I will probably take it apart this spring and do the following.
1. Remove the water jacket and scrap the whole water jacket.
2. Add holes to the back fire box support so water can circulate.
3. Re- route the flue so it goes horizontal in the water then turns up. Will have to add a clean-out flange or two.
4. Install proper legs on the unit so the underneath side can be insulated.
5. Put a new water jacket on probably out of Stainless Steel if I can talk the neighbor out of a half dozen sheets he has laying back behind his shed.
6. I will probably increase the size of the water jacket also, and design it so that the water jacket is completely full of water, no gap.
Or Go buy a WoodMaster or Central Boiler or something comparable. If I do buy new I will defiantly be looking for something with a 1/4" thick fire box. I don't know what I was thinking buying something with a 1/2" fire box. I've worked on, ran, and maintained High Pressure Steam Boilers for years. With steam you want thick steel. These are not pressure boilers, and I should have known better, they are simply a wood fired water heater, thinner steel equates to more efficient ( heat transfers to water before going up the flue).