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Electronics / Re: Wood boiler to lp furnace.
« on: December 30, 2012, 08:30:50 PM »If you just want the LP burner disabled completely just take the wire off the W terminal on thermostat and move the wire that is on the G over to the W.This is the easiest well written response that I have found any were on the net. I fully understand the first and is what I believe I will be doing. I do not fully understand the second yet as this is the first time dealing with this and am still learning but does sound very interesting and something I will like to learn more.
If you want to add a second thermostat and keep the LP furnace operational just run a jumper wire from the RH in the original thermostat to the RH in the new thermostat and remove the wire from the G terminal and run it to the W on the new thermostat. (do not leave on the G in the original tstat or the AC may run) If the new thermostat doesn't use batteries you will need to run a jumper between the C terminals too.
Another option is a strap on aquastat on the line from the OWB. If can be wired to switch the existing thermostat from LP gas to fan only when the pipe is hot. To wire it you would connect the RH wire going to the furnace to the NC connection, the G to the furnace to the NO connection and the RH to the thermostat to the common connection.
Thanks alot.
Steve.
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Fire Wood / Re: Pellets for OWB
« on: December 29, 2012, 03:50:33 PM »No, the maxim is made specifically to burn pellets/corn, directions indicate no wood burning.
Cool thank you for the info...
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Electronics / Re: Wood boiler to lp furnace.
« on: December 29, 2012, 03:43:50 PM »You have a lot of options here, depending on what you want to spend. A second thermostat wired direct to the blower fan or jumped to the original Thermostat is one option. If the AC unit fires when the fan runs, you can either throw the breaker off on the AC unit during the winter heating season, or you can use a fan relay. Another option would be to purchase a multi-stage thermostat and run all 3 systems through it. This works the best but costs a few bucks more.
I like the first idea of jumping off the original tsat. What wires would I bring over? Just a heat only tstat would need to be purchased? Do also like the 3 system tsat what would I be looking for and how much as I like the first as a short term fix till I can save for the latter..
Steve
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Fire Wood / Re: Pellets for OWB
« on: December 29, 2012, 02:39:03 PM »
So you can use pellets inside of wood in the same burner? Is there a real cost saving over straight wood or could you mix them both wood/pellets.
7
Equipment / Re: my sons ready to go...lol
« on: December 29, 2012, 01:48:56 PM »
Cool off and running!
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Electronics / Re: Wood boiler to lp furnace.
« on: December 29, 2012, 01:47:45 PM »I used a second heat only thermostat wired to the fan only side of your existing thermostat.
Would that be the R and W side of the exiting tsat? I have read that this can still kick on the A/C also?
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Electronics / Wood boiler to lp furnace.
« on: December 29, 2012, 12:12:06 PM »
First and foremost please bear with me and if I miss anything just ask as this is my first time dealing with this type of idea and the rational of thinking.
Ok here goes:
First I live in the thumb of MI. Ok g/f has a forced air propane system for the main part of the house and in the basement (livable space like a tri level) there is radiant in floor heat from a outside boiler wood burner. Said wood burner also has a unit in the forced air system. There is also A/C on this set-up
Ok with the basic set up out of the way here is my question. To run the forced air system she just turns the blower from auto to on leaving the heat/cool selector to off so the burner will not kick on and waste propane. But by doing so it gets left on to long and wastes elec. So what my line of thinking is there any way that it can be turned on the heat cycle and avoid the burners coming on just cycling the blower when heat is called for?
I thought of just cutting off the pilot by shutting off the propane but once the thermo-couple sensed no flame would the system cut out? Or if it is a elec igniter would the igniter keep clicking on on a call for heat? I am trying to figure a way to run the forced air system with out the propane and not on the on setting but auto to save money.
I hope that this is clear enough to get the jest of what I am saying. No I do not know the make and model of the furnace or wood boiler (is a professorial home made model). Any questions on information that I may have omitted please ask as I know there has to be an easy solution to this problem.
Thank you in advance
Steve
Ok here goes:
First I live in the thumb of MI. Ok g/f has a forced air propane system for the main part of the house and in the basement (livable space like a tri level) there is radiant in floor heat from a outside boiler wood burner. Said wood burner also has a unit in the forced air system. There is also A/C on this set-up
Ok with the basic set up out of the way here is my question. To run the forced air system she just turns the blower from auto to on leaving the heat/cool selector to off so the burner will not kick on and waste propane. But by doing so it gets left on to long and wastes elec. So what my line of thinking is there any way that it can be turned on the heat cycle and avoid the burners coming on just cycling the blower when heat is called for?
I thought of just cutting off the pilot by shutting off the propane but once the thermo-couple sensed no flame would the system cut out? Or if it is a elec igniter would the igniter keep clicking on on a call for heat? I am trying to figure a way to run the forced air system with out the propane and not on the on setting but auto to save money.
I hope that this is clear enough to get the jest of what I am saying. No I do not know the make and model of the furnace or wood boiler (is a professorial home made model). Any questions on information that I may have omitted please ask as I know there has to be an easy solution to this problem.
Thank you in advance
Steve
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