Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
16
Equipment / Re: Log Splitter Advice
« on: May 10, 2016, 08:02:08 PM »
Thanks, I favor Honda small engines myself. Any insight on tonnage? Will 22-25 be enough to split 90% of what I throw at it, or should I step up to a 27-30 (toughest wood I run into is p*ss elm; I cut them down on purpose to clear my property of em... hate them).
What about splitter brand - does it matter, or is more or less about the motor?
What about splitter brand - does it matter, or is more or less about the motor?
17
Equipment / Log Splitter Advice
« on: May 10, 2016, 03:28:06 AM »
Decided to take the dive and buy a gas log splitter... I've been perusing different splitters for a while, but I can't make a decision. Here are my concerns:
What tonnage is good? I'm looking around the 22-27 ton range.
What brand is the most durable?
Does brand really matter, or does the motor make the difference?
Does hydraulic tank capacity matter? Is bigger better?
What's a decent price? I'm looking to spend around $800-1500 from the looks of it.
What tonnage is good? I'm looking around the 22-27 ton range.
What brand is the most durable?
Does brand really matter, or does the motor make the difference?
Does hydraulic tank capacity matter? Is bigger better?
What's a decent price? I'm looking to spend around $800-1500 from the looks of it.
18
Equipment / Re: PTO driven splitter?
« on: May 10, 2016, 01:52:10 AM »
After much consideration... of which I've been back and forth a few times. I think I'm going to opt for a standard log splitter. The main reasoning is that I value the tractor much higher, and the added hours put on it by splitting wood is not worth the small amount of space and convenience I would save by having a stand-alone unit. I reckon I can replace a broken or worn splitter much cheaper than I can a tractor. 
Thanks for all the input
Thanks for all the input
19
Equipment / Re: PTO driven splitter?
« on: May 04, 2016, 08:54:50 PM »
Thanks - definitely looking for one similar to what Cabo posted. Are they reasonably priced? I can get a standard gas powered 22 ton splitter at the local store for around $800. I'm really hoping to find a similarly priced PTO driven one (with they hydraulic level control on the splitter unit).
Note: PTO is 19 HP @ 540 RPM.
Note: PTO is 19 HP @ 540 RPM.
20
Equipment / PTO driven splitter?
« on: May 03, 2016, 08:59:21 PM »
Can anyone recommend a good PTO driven log splitter? I'd like to be able to do up to 20-24" length logs with around 22-27 tons of pressure. I'd be getting this as an alternative to a stand-along splitter... so it'd need to be cheaper or at least the same price as a comparable stand-alone in order for it to be a worthwhile purchase.
Currently, I split it all by hand with the Fiskars X-27, so it'd be hard to put that down for a cheap splitter; I need something that is more time effective.
PTO is driving by a Kubota L2501 if that helps for the selection process.
Currently, I split it all by hand with the Fiskars X-27, so it'd be hard to put that down for a cheap splitter; I need something that is more time effective.
PTO is driving by a Kubota L2501 if that helps for the selection process.
21
Fire Wood / Re: Wood Consumption vs. Application
« on: February 22, 2015, 06:22:29 AM »
2300 sq ft. open floor design. No basement & poorly insulated crawlspace (new house; haven't had time to upgrade). Heating DHW through a plate HX with no holding tank (on-demand only). Running unlimited water @ 120 degrees when I want and heating to ~70 inside. This is my first season burning, using mostly mixed oak, elm, black cherry, and maple that's slightly seasoned in central IL.
I'm burning ~1 to 1.3 cord/month in a CB5036 on a 180' loop.
I'm burning ~1 to 1.3 cord/month in a CB5036 on a 180' loop.
22
Equipment / Re: In the market for a saw
« on: January 21, 2015, 04:39:39 PM »
A sharp blade, quality fuel/oil mix, and a saw that you can easily handle (size-wise) makes a world of a difference. Brand is hardly worth debating... it'll never end.
23
Central Boiler / 5036 Model; regarding ash.
« on: December 26, 2014, 10:17:20 PM »
This is my first season using my 5036. I don't really have a feel for the amount of ash I should expect. I've been burning just under 2 months so far.
After the first 30 days (+/-), I completely cleaned out all the ash per the manufacturer guideline.
It's been about 3 weeks since the full cleaning and I've got quite a build-up of ash again. Here for the last week, I've been regularly taking a few shovels full (enough to fill a small 3 gal metal pail every other day) out and that seems to be dwindling the pile down. I'd say a good portion of this ash is dust too - I rake the chunks of coals around and let them burn down.
Does this sound like a normal amount of ash? I'm burning decently seasoned wood; mostly maple, black cherry, locust, and a little white oak.
Also, is this a good practice? I have a decent coal bed and ashes under that still. I have noticed that the ash dust that I pull out retains a good amount of heat too. The metal pail I dispense into stays warm for a couple hours after I fill it; should I instead leave the ashes in the furnace?
After the first 30 days (+/-), I completely cleaned out all the ash per the manufacturer guideline.
It's been about 3 weeks since the full cleaning and I've got quite a build-up of ash again. Here for the last week, I've been regularly taking a few shovels full (enough to fill a small 3 gal metal pail every other day) out and that seems to be dwindling the pile down. I'd say a good portion of this ash is dust too - I rake the chunks of coals around and let them burn down.
Does this sound like a normal amount of ash? I'm burning decently seasoned wood; mostly maple, black cherry, locust, and a little white oak.
Also, is this a good practice? I have a decent coal bed and ashes under that still. I have noticed that the ash dust that I pull out retains a good amount of heat too. The metal pail I dispense into stays warm for a couple hours after I fill it; should I instead leave the ashes in the furnace?
24
Electronics / Re: Need advice on t-stat wiring.
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:49:33 PM »
Thanks, RSI.
I have a gas furnace as back-up. When I remove the 'g' terminal from the original thermostat, will I have to reconnect it during the summer months when I want the A/C to run? Or, is this a permanent fix?
I have a gas furnace as back-up. When I remove the 'g' terminal from the original thermostat, will I have to reconnect it during the summer months when I want the A/C to run? Or, is this a permanent fix?
25
Electronics / Need advice on t-stat wiring.
« on: November 24, 2014, 10:39:45 PM »
Hi all,
I've had my boiler up and running for a little over a week now. The system is functioning beautifully with only 1 minor set back. The first time my secondary thermostat called for heat, it also turned my A/C on. Any quick ideas on how to rectify?
I have the basic double thermostat set-up for an existing forced air unit using the guide CentralBoiler has on their website. I've been working 12 hours since the install and haven't had much time to troubleshoot... any advice would be appreciated so I can get it done sooner rather than later. Currently, I have the breaker disconnected for the A/C unit - that was my quick-fix.
I've had my boiler up and running for a little over a week now. The system is functioning beautifully with only 1 minor set back. The first time my secondary thermostat called for heat, it also turned my A/C on. Any quick ideas on how to rectify?
I have the basic double thermostat set-up for an existing forced air unit using the guide CentralBoiler has on their website. I've been working 12 hours since the install and haven't had much time to troubleshoot... any advice would be appreciated so I can get it done sooner rather than later. Currently, I have the breaker disconnected for the A/C unit - that was my quick-fix.
26
Plumbing / Re: Tankless/On-demand DHW
« on: November 17, 2014, 07:10:29 PM »
That's a good point, LJ. I'm leaning towards using a mixing valve now, on account of I could get one installed in less than 5 minutes. I like the idea of an a-stat, but that's an undertaking for another day.
Anyone know if there's a mixing valve with a manual bypass available? In other words, one that I could "skip" if I wanted un-tempered water without actually installing a bypass line? Running separate lines to appliances isn't an option I want to use; I have one main hot supply that branches out to the rest of the house (sinks, showers, dishwasher, you-name-it).
Anyone know if there's a mixing valve with a manual bypass available? In other words, one that I could "skip" if I wanted un-tempered water without actually installing a bypass line? Running separate lines to appliances isn't an option I want to use; I have one main hot supply that branches out to the rest of the house (sinks, showers, dishwasher, you-name-it).
27
Plumbing / Re: Tankless/On-demand DHW
« on: November 16, 2014, 06:24:22 PM »
It will always be a continuous flow. Aside from the cup-full that sits idle in the exchanger prior to use, my system will be on-demand. That's why I expect to see an average continuous flow temperature around 160 degrees. I believe my water to water HX is rated for up to ~7ish GPM, which is more than enough to accommodate my DHW needs.
Using a mixing valve seems counterproductive to me, unless I'm confused... With a mixing valve, I would heat my DHW with the HX, then cool it with the mixing valve, then heat it again with the on-demand system? Or, heat it with the HX, then "heat" it again with the on-demand system, then cool it with the mixing valve?
Using an aquastat seems like the best idea... perhaps in conjunction with a 3-way zone valve? Only problem is that I'm not sure how to wire that. The set-up would go something like this: flow to the on-demand system when feed water temp is <X and flow bypasses the on-demand system when >X, but again, no idea how to wire that in.
Using a mixing valve seems counterproductive to me, unless I'm confused... With a mixing valve, I would heat my DHW with the HX, then cool it with the mixing valve, then heat it again with the on-demand system? Or, heat it with the HX, then "heat" it again with the on-demand system, then cool it with the mixing valve?
Using an aquastat seems like the best idea... perhaps in conjunction with a 3-way zone valve? Only problem is that I'm not sure how to wire that. The set-up would go something like this: flow to the on-demand system when feed water temp is <X and flow bypasses the on-demand system when >X, but again, no idea how to wire that in.
28
Plumbing / Tankless/On-demand DHW
« on: November 15, 2014, 07:14:06 PM »
Anyone using their boiler in conjunction with an on-demand water heater? I have my plumbed in and ready, I just haven't opened the bypass yet - I'm not sure how it will affect the tankless heater.
Reading on this site has led me to believe that I'll get about a 20 degree temp swing in the water to water plate HX. So, by that theory, my tankless heater will be getting feed water around 160-170 degrees (using CB5036 with set point at 185-190 degrees). Since my on-demand system is only set to heat up to 115 degrees, I theoretically shouldn't be using any electricity to heat my water... right? It should just flow through my tankless system and not require a second heating? This also means that my DHW will be coming out around ~160 degrees at the shower, sink, etc.
I understand I could put a mixing valve in to keep it closer to 145 degrees, but I think I would rather mitigate the hotter water by mixing cold in at the shower or using scald preventers. I think I like the idea of 160 degree water getting to the sink and dishwasher though.
So... to the point. Is my theorizing correct? Will I indeed be getting 160ish degree water after the HX? And, if so, will feeding 160 degree water into my tankless have any adverse effects on the tankless system's integrity?
Reading on this site has led me to believe that I'll get about a 20 degree temp swing in the water to water plate HX. So, by that theory, my tankless heater will be getting feed water around 160-170 degrees (using CB5036 with set point at 185-190 degrees). Since my on-demand system is only set to heat up to 115 degrees, I theoretically shouldn't be using any electricity to heat my water... right? It should just flow through my tankless system and not require a second heating? This also means that my DHW will be coming out around ~160 degrees at the shower, sink, etc.
I understand I could put a mixing valve in to keep it closer to 145 degrees, but I think I would rather mitigate the hotter water by mixing cold in at the shower or using scald preventers. I think I like the idea of 160 degree water getting to the sink and dishwasher though.
So... to the point. Is my theorizing correct? Will I indeed be getting 160ish degree water after the HX? And, if so, will feeding 160 degree water into my tankless have any adverse effects on the tankless system's integrity?
29
Central Boiler / Fittings kits
« on: October 27, 2014, 10:48:24 PM »
Is it a good idea to use Teflon tape on any/all of the threaded connections for the various fittings kits CB sells? I have a kit for hooking up the thermostatic valve and a kit for hooking up a plate HX. Should I use tape on the threads, or not?
30
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Not OWB related
« on: October 27, 2014, 10:36:24 PM »
To offer my $0.02 -
I have a tankless water heater. It's relatively new. Two things I would be very sure of before considering an install on this is a water softening system and a sediment filter (especially if you're on a well). The heating elements inside a tankless heater will plug up much faster than a in a tank.
It was very easy to install and takes up significantly less space than a tank. The particular model I have has a dial gauge to set the temp. I set it to 113 degrees... that's where I like my shower temp. The water gets to that temperature and I don't have to adjust cold water at all; all I do is turn the hot on and go - I can take hour long showers if I want.
You can also hook a plate HX up before the tankless heater and utilize your OWB.
I have a tankless water heater. It's relatively new. Two things I would be very sure of before considering an install on this is a water softening system and a sediment filter (especially if you're on a well). The heating elements inside a tankless heater will plug up much faster than a in a tank.
It was very easy to install and takes up significantly less space than a tank. The particular model I have has a dial gauge to set the temp. I set it to 113 degrees... that's where I like my shower temp. The water gets to that temperature and I don't have to adjust cold water at all; all I do is turn the hot on and go - I can take hour long showers if I want.
You can also hook a plate HX up before the tankless heater and utilize your OWB.