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Wood Doctor / Re: Door corrosion
« on: February 16, 2012, 10:05:02 AM »
Well, thanks to everyone for their comments. I do agree that the swing point of the t-stat at the higher end would help burn the moisture out.
I think what is happening is that my rope seal is starting to leak and the smoke condensates on the ledge. and since the ledge on this stock sticks out beyond
the stove about six inches, the metal around it cools allowing for condensation. I had thoughts if I were to wrap the outside of the door opening with some type of
insulation that would stand heat and weather it would help.
It has done it since it was new. I just don't want it to corrode out early. I have it set at 170 degree water temp with currently a 10 degree swing from when it shuts off to re-firing up. The door seal will have to wait. They are really hard to replace during the burning season. I did notice when the company POLAR took over the WOOD DOCTOR design that they got rid of the outer door surround. Maybe they knew about the rotting and condensation forming when it was at idle stage. Makes sense to me. A lot of wood burners don't have the extension for the door. Other than that, I love it. My father has a Industrial version WOOD DOCTOR on the farm. He burns everything. When a sick calf dies, it too goes in the burner. Takes a day and its gone. Farmers have to pay to get rid of animals who have passed from sickness.
Thanks everyone..
I think what is happening is that my rope seal is starting to leak and the smoke condensates on the ledge. and since the ledge on this stock sticks out beyond
the stove about six inches, the metal around it cools allowing for condensation. I had thoughts if I were to wrap the outside of the door opening with some type of
insulation that would stand heat and weather it would help.
It has done it since it was new. I just don't want it to corrode out early. I have it set at 170 degree water temp with currently a 10 degree swing from when it shuts off to re-firing up. The door seal will have to wait. They are really hard to replace during the burning season. I did notice when the company POLAR took over the WOOD DOCTOR design that they got rid of the outer door surround. Maybe they knew about the rotting and condensation forming when it was at idle stage. Makes sense to me. A lot of wood burners don't have the extension for the door. Other than that, I love it. My father has a Industrial version WOOD DOCTOR on the farm. He burns everything. When a sick calf dies, it too goes in the burner. Takes a day and its gone. Farmers have to pay to get rid of animals who have passed from sickness.
Thanks everyone..
2
Wood Doctor / Door corrosion
« on: February 11, 2012, 11:01:22 PM »
What does one do about outer door corrosion. I haven't had any leaks on this one yet. Hopefully this one was made before all the crap began at the
factory. This stove idles alot because of a well insulated house, condensation builds on the bottom of the door ledge. I burn seasoned and dry oak wood
but it tends to still drip out around the door. I did turn the temp differential down to 10 degree swing hoping it won't get a chance to condensate.
Can one insulate around the door? The temp adjustment seems to help some. We have around 20 of the 8000 series around and I know only 2 that are
causing this problem. Any help would be cool.
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
factory. This stove idles alot because of a well insulated house, condensation builds on the bottom of the door ledge. I burn seasoned and dry oak wood
but it tends to still drip out around the door. I did turn the temp differential down to 10 degree swing hoping it won't get a chance to condensate.
Can one insulate around the door? The temp adjustment seems to help some. We have around 20 of the 8000 series around and I know only 2 that are
causing this problem. Any help would be cool.
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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