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1
Central Boiler / Re: Fire Out
« on: March 31, 2015, 07:18:53 AM »
I've had my kids turn up my oil burner t-stat before, made me ugly. My CB uses cotter pins on the solenoids (grade 
. Installed in 2008 and never had one fail, solenoid either. Had to replace the blower fan once.
. Installed in 2008 and never had one fail, solenoid either. Had to replace the blower fan once.
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Where the heck do ya live
« on: March 31, 2015, 06:52:44 AM »
I updated mine. Boy is it nice to see some melting. This area got hit with a lot of coastal snow storms this season. Not quite as bad as NY state getting 5' in a couple of days, but we saw about that much over a 2-1/2 week period. Eastport, which is only about 35 miles from me got over 8' in that time. I only plow myself, my neighbor and my parents and I was tired of it. Maybe it was all the shoveling in between I was tired from. Regardless, I'm happy to see winter coming to an end. I'd like to see a good spring and summer. We've earned it.
3
General Discussion / Re: Better get things in order here in the Northeast
« on: March 12, 2015, 10:41:06 AM »
My dad and his uncle (both run/ran greenhouse businesses as I still do with my dad). They used to call it "poor man's fertilizer". Well, not sure how good it is, but we sure have enough of it here. Saw a lot of melting over the past couple of days. Cooling back down some today with another round of snow expected this weekend. Heavy wet stuff this time. Most of the storms last month were fluffy and easy to move. Sadly I've lost my nice snow packed base in my driveway. Plowing this weekend will be loads of fun.
4
Central Boiler / Re: maxim 250 putting info together
« on: March 11, 2015, 12:05:04 PM »
I'm rather baffled by this thread. Roger, your E1400 is has roughly a rated output of 80k to 120k btu output, which is heating your home. I for one know how inconsistent burning my E2300 has been but I have never run out of heat. Mine has a rating of approx. 170k btu. There have been many times when it wasn't burning all that well and struggled and my 450 gallons of water would start losing temp. I just found a .pdf brochure that states the M255 is rated at 165K btu. As with wood I know there are a lot of variables with pellets, but overall should be a more consistent source of heat. I have a friend with a forced air pellet furnace who has had a lot of trouble with it since he bought it slightly used. Pellets make a difference for sure and he knows that. But a simple change he made this year has turned his furnace and his opinion of his furnace around. He replaced the agitator in the burn pot and is getting much hotter burn. I just can't help but wonder if there is something else going on with the 250's being spoken about here. One major difference I can note and have read a lot about is water storage. The Maxim only holds 90 gallons of water. Perhaps having a water storage tank would help lessen the stress under high demand times. This is just speculation. I'm curious to learn more about them also.
5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Year to date
« on: March 11, 2015, 11:35:06 AM »
Well that was an interesting article. I rather hope it does not come true.
6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Pump to flush out heat exchanger
« on: March 08, 2015, 09:53:18 PM »
I wish I knew plugging could be a problem when I installed. But I have a pex crimper so cutting and re-crimping is not too bad for me. I will add isolation valves for next year. I used a 12v pump, much like in an RV with a garden hose on the outlet side but changed over to 1/2" pex on the suction side with a garden hose fitting. My plate exchanger was still hot on the boiler side so therefore the vinegar got hot after re-circulating it over and over and as a result the garden hose on the suction side collapsed. Not made for that kind of heat. I do think the vinegar being hot was a good thing though. My coffee maker suggested letting vinegar sit in it for several hours while hot to descale that. I recommend using the white distilled vinegar over CLR. Non-chemical and much cheaper. I used about 3 gallons dumped into 5 gallon bucket. What a disgusting mess that came out after a while. I've been told my water here is on the hard side, (well water) but I do not get much mineral staining either. Was surprised that my HX plugged on only the 3rd season. Though, it is only a 10 plate so I guess that might be part of my problem.
7
Central Boiler / Re: maxim 250 putting info together
« on: March 03, 2015, 07:53:01 AM »
madcop & Big Wood, I'm down by Calais!!
8
Central Boiler / Re: Proper way of stacking wood in e2400
« on: March 03, 2015, 07:51:23 AM »
My first attempt did bring the air to the top and that may work ok if done differently than I did. I just did a pipe to the top then 1/2 way to the front to a Tee blowing to each side. If I just brought the pipe to the front and capped it and drilled holes on each side it would have resembled the P&M 250 design and maybe worked ok. But the way I did it allowed for the fire to backdraft. I'd get these explosions that would blow ash and coals out the stack and also smoke and fire into my air box. I did not keep it this way for long, just finished out that season. The other reason that did not seem to work for me is my fire seemed to be confined to the nozzle area and not even across the firebox floor causing more bridging. That was just my experience with it. I did not try to experiment further with that design.
Attempt #2 had the pipe assemble running on top of the original air channel. This worked better but I may have sized the pipe too small and it was still troublesome but more stable.
3rd attempt brought the pipe back down to original height, level with the air inlet pipe. This was done after I had to have my side walls relined and the old channel was removed. Had the holes drilled to blow inward as the original factory design did. Worked ok but ashes would build up and I would get creosote in the back left corner mostly that would back up into the air holes there and block air flow on the left side.
Currently, attempt 4, is working the best. Instead of coming in from the back wall to a Tee aiming to each side, I come in to a 90 degree elbow up with a short nipple to a Tee then piped to each side and then forward to the front. (This is done very similar to attempt #2). This time I have 6 holes on each side aiming downward (slightly toward the middle). I also drilled 2 holes in the rear (done later so they aim toward the front).
All of the earlier attempts worked. There is one detail in this 4th attempt that the previous versions had which I omitted here. That is a creosote drain at the rear inlet. All those versions had a drilled hole to allow creosote buildup to drain. Turns out that was my biggest problem with those other attempts. My "Drain" hole turned out to be an inlet for creosote to build up to and ooze into the pipe, thus blocking air flow.
It took me sooooooo long to figure that out. I've had absolutely no buildup in this new channel.
Jeff
Attempt #2 had the pipe assemble running on top of the original air channel. This worked better but I may have sized the pipe too small and it was still troublesome but more stable.
3rd attempt brought the pipe back down to original height, level with the air inlet pipe. This was done after I had to have my side walls relined and the old channel was removed. Had the holes drilled to blow inward as the original factory design did. Worked ok but ashes would build up and I would get creosote in the back left corner mostly that would back up into the air holes there and block air flow on the left side.
Currently, attempt 4, is working the best. Instead of coming in from the back wall to a Tee aiming to each side, I come in to a 90 degree elbow up with a short nipple to a Tee then piped to each side and then forward to the front. (This is done very similar to attempt #2). This time I have 6 holes on each side aiming downward (slightly toward the middle). I also drilled 2 holes in the rear (done later so they aim toward the front).
All of the earlier attempts worked. There is one detail in this 4th attempt that the previous versions had which I omitted here. That is a creosote drain at the rear inlet. All those versions had a drilled hole to allow creosote buildup to drain. Turns out that was my biggest problem with those other attempts. My "Drain" hole turned out to be an inlet for creosote to build up to and ooze into the pipe, thus blocking air flow.
It took me sooooooo long to figure that out. I've had absolutely no buildup in this new channel.Jeff
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Plate exchanger plugged up, any ideas how to clean it out??
« on: March 03, 2015, 07:04:36 AM »
Now that's a great idea!! 
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: polar outdoor furnace
« on: March 02, 2015, 09:33:25 AM »
Knock on wood my WD HE10000 has been the least of my worries. First owner had a leak welded in the bottom combustion area. I think that weld may lose a little water but very hard to get in there to even look at it and it's been that way since I've owned it. It's a 2008 model and I got it in 2010. So far the firebox looks and sounds good when struck. Does not sound to be getting thin yet. My CB 2300 had to be re-lined last year as side walls and roof of firebox were warn paper thin with all corrosion on the fire side. Had a couple weld leaks 2 different years prior to that. It has been a real headache for me since I've owned it. That one is also 2008 model. Granted it was CB's first gasser model and they did offer some upgrades mostly for free. Doesn't help the corrosion issues though.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Plate exchanger plugged up, any ideas how to clean it out??
« on: March 02, 2015, 09:24:57 AM »
I plan to clean both sides before startup next season. For me it was the domestic side that plugged and when it decided to happen it happened quick. It might be in part because I installed a water line for a humidifier and therefore shut off that water supply. When I re-opened the water supply valve I guess it broke some chunks loose and plugged up my water flow more. My theory is that the corrosion inhibitor on the boiler side may be helping to keep that side clear?? Couple that with the fact that it is just re-circulating the same water and not introduced to new water constantly.
Side note about CLR. I once put regular CLR in a spray bottle to spray a shower. The mist just about killed me to breathe. Never did that again. Not a big fan of chemicals if I don't need them. Figure vinegar is used to descale a coffee maker and I see this as being about the same thing, without adding chemicals to my domestic water lines.
I too have hard water.
Side note about CLR. I once put regular CLR in a spray bottle to spray a shower. The mist just about killed me to breathe. Never did that again. Not a big fan of chemicals if I don't need them. Figure vinegar is used to descale a coffee maker and I see this as being about the same thing, without adding chemicals to my domestic water lines.
I too have hard water.
12
Central Boiler / Re: Proper way of stacking wood in e2400
« on: March 02, 2015, 09:13:29 AM »
Corneroffice (or anyone else interested)- e-mail me jeffg77@roadrunner.com I'll pass on some pics. I just used 1-1/2" piping. Works well, easily removable/replaceable. Cost, generally under $150 and should get you 1 to 2 seasons. Something anybody can put together with few tools. Only tough part the first time might be cutting out the back portion of the old channel. Happy to help if I can.
Jeff
Jeff
13
Central Boiler / Re: maxim 250 putting info together
« on: March 01, 2015, 07:38:36 PM »
Intensedrive,
A buddy of mine has a similar unit I think from American Stove Co. He's had it several years and had quite a lot of trouble keeping his house up to temp. He did change some parts this season and made some other changes with his cold air return. The other day he told me it's been doing great for him and we've been stuck in a very cold pattern for quite some time. Pellet quality does make a big difference also. This is the first season he's been happy with it. Still quite a lot of daily maintenance for him though.
A buddy of mine has a similar unit I think from American Stove Co. He's had it several years and had quite a lot of trouble keeping his house up to temp. He did change some parts this season and made some other changes with his cold air return. The other day he told me it's been doing great for him and we've been stuck in a very cold pattern for quite some time. Pellet quality does make a big difference also. This is the first season he's been happy with it. Still quite a lot of daily maintenance for him though.
14
Central Boiler / Re: Dealer in Central Ohio
« on: March 01, 2015, 07:21:30 PM »
My CB E-2300 was the first edition with firebrick recessed and cemented into the walls in such a way so that the wall was basically smooth all the way down. As I said the firebrick was cemented in place which should have stopped creosote from working in behind. But it was only a few months before the bricks started to push out and fall out of place as a result of creosote seeping in behind them. I was later instructed by CB dealer to remove them.
Makes me feel a little better knowing that others are seeing corrosion issues in their fireboxes and it's not just me. I had my CB re-lined on the sides and roof last year at 6 yrs old. Corrosion was all on the fire side and steel was paper thin. Amazing to see how it was just eaten away with no sign of rust. The creosote left a textured feel and look to the steel from running down the walls constantly.
Makes me feel a little better knowing that others are seeing corrosion issues in their fireboxes and it's not just me. I had my CB re-lined on the sides and roof last year at 6 yrs old. Corrosion was all on the fire side and steel was paper thin. Amazing to see how it was just eaten away with no sign of rust. The creosote left a textured feel and look to the steel from running down the walls constantly.
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Plate exchanger plugged up, any ideas how to clean it out??
« on: March 01, 2015, 06:57:17 PM »
Mlappin,
Thank you very much for your input. That is exactly what I had in mind to do. I had already picked up a couple of needed fittings a few days ago along with a few I had on hand. And I happen to have a 12v pump but had to borrow a battery that I knew my neighbor had. First I just attached a some pex pieces which were angled upward making it possible to just dump vinegar into the HX and fill it up allowing it to soak. The boiler side is still hot so that heated the vinegar also. I let it sit that way for several hours while the family and I were out. When I got back I set up the pump with a few gallons of vinegar and started flushing it out. What a disgusting mess. But wow did it work well. I'll be making it a yearly ritual.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Thank you very much for your input. That is exactly what I had in mind to do. I had already picked up a couple of needed fittings a few days ago along with a few I had on hand. And I happen to have a 12v pump but had to borrow a battery that I knew my neighbor had. First I just attached a some pex pieces which were angled upward making it possible to just dump vinegar into the HX and fill it up allowing it to soak. The boiler side is still hot so that heated the vinegar also. I let it sit that way for several hours while the family and I were out. When I got back I set up the pump with a few gallons of vinegar and started flushing it out. What a disgusting mess. But wow did it work well. I'll be making it a yearly ritual.
Thanks again,
Jeff