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1

HeatMaster / Re: Parts for Older G200

« on: October 18, 2018, 07:43:44 AM »

That is how my dads stove is the nozzles are crossways. I tried to measure it and its about 12 wide by 32 long. I stopped at my local dealer and he had nothing close to it. He was not around to talk to either. Gonna have a hard time finding some 1/2 409 and if I do it might be expensive, would mild steel 1/2 thick work?

2

HeatMaster / Re: Parts for Older G200

« on: October 17, 2018, 08:40:23 AM »

E Yoder thanks for the number if my local guy does not have one I will contact you.

3

HeatMaster / Re: Parts for Older G200

« on: October 17, 2018, 08:39:31 AM »

I contacted Heatmaster directly and they would not sell me one, said I had to go through a dealer. I contacted my local dealer and am going tonight to look at one he said might work. I also asked Heatmaster if they had a parts diagram for the stove and they said they did not. Has anyone ever tried making a metal piece that covers the holes to help wearing on the brick? Like cut a plate that fits directly over the firebox floor? This is the third year for this stove and the bricks are worn out already.

4

HeatMaster / Parts for Older G200

« on: October 16, 2018, 06:00:57 AM »

My dad has an older Heatmaster G200. It is labeled as a Chinook 200 with a build date of 2011. I am in need of the nozzle refractory piece his has cracked. I can't seem to find it anywhere online. Any of you guys ever replace these or know where I can find one?

Thanks in advance

5

HeatMaster / Re: Older G200 not gasifying

« on: February 17, 2016, 05:52:28 AM »

Thanks for the advice, after reading these and looking more at the stove it must be gasifying pretty good based on the wood being burned up and the ashes it leaves. It seems to burn everything up really well, when I clean the ash area it is a real fine powder. I guess I am used to my Empyre Pro 200, I can open the lower door on it and see it gasifying away in there and just figured his would be the same way. Other than a couple drips out of the doors I know it needs new gaskets, my dads stove is doing very well. I guess I will have to call Heatmaster to see how to remove the airbox to clean it, like I said I had all the bolts loose but nothing would budge.

6

HeatMaster / Older G200 not gasifying

« on: January 30, 2016, 08:13:54 PM »

So I got my dads older (2011) G200 installed this fall and got it fired in November and it had been working great. At first I think he was overloading it a little and he was getting some creosote dripping out of the main door and some moisture at the lower ash clean out door. But now it seems to have a hard time gasifying. It will be loaded up and burning well with the main door open but when I close it and open the ash door its not gasifying or it is but just a little bit. I know the seals are probably bad and I can see a little smoke coming out of the main door in two spots but is that enough to keep it from gasifying? The chimney is clear as are the exchanger tubes, and I have tried clearing the nozzles on the refractory brick to make sure they are open. Also the solenoid is working correctly and the flap is opening. I tried to remove the air box on the back to see if it was clogged but could not get it off. It looks like it only has two bolts holding it but I can not get it off. Any ideas?

7

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Empyre customer service warranty work and......

« on: January 11, 2016, 11:05:56 AM »

Im on the third year with my Pro 200 as well. The first two years I had problems with the air box getting all gooey and I would have to clean it out every two weeks. Tried ProFormer and talked with people at Pro Fab and told me I was loading it too heavy and had to be more careful. Tried there ideas but eventually my flapper even rotted through, it was paper thin and my air box was getting thin too, I poked one small hole in it on the upper right side. I sealed the hole, got a new flapper from Scott7M and made it so that when my blower stops the flap hits a piece of 12 gauge copper wire and stays open the width of the wire and guess what I have absolutely no goo anymore. It draws just enough to keep the box clean. No more goo dripping out the drain hole at all and I dont have to reach in and pull it all out. I have my stove on at 170 and off at 178 and it will creep to 182 but that is it. It has been the best thing I have done and hopefully I have saved mine from more rotting.

8

HeatMaster / Re: Older g200 questions

« on: November 24, 2015, 05:37:58 AM »

Wood is all about 15 to 20% with bumping the set point up to 185 and having the differential of 9 I think it has helped some, I just couldn't get over how much wood was left in his yesterday morning, I thought mine was efficient but his puts mine to shame

9

HeatMaster / Re: Older g200 questions

« on: November 23, 2015, 10:58:39 AM »

Here is his stove from the front I took them this morning on the way to work. You can see where it is dripping out. I was amazed though last nite was 21 for a low and I used up all 6 big pieces I put in my stove, and my dad loaded his similar and he had lots of wood left while I had nothing. Maybe this thing is super efficient his is run through forced air while mine goes through a water to water exchanger and my house is slightly bigger but I was still shocked when I opened his firebox and it was still loaded up

10

HeatMaster / Re: Older g200 questions

« on: November 22, 2015, 07:25:25 PM »

I'll get some for tomorrow

11

HeatMaster / Re: Older g200 questions

« on: November 22, 2015, 06:39:27 PM »

There isn't a door inside the firebox. This is the model that has the heater exchanger tubes on top with the clean out for them right above the fire box door. I turned up the temp to 185 with a differential of 9 to see if that helps

12

HeatMaster / Re: Older g200 questions

« on: November 22, 2015, 06:33:46 AM »

Which is the smoke bypass door. His had three doors on the front and one in the back

13

HeatMaster / Older g200 questions

« on: November 21, 2015, 08:22:07 PM »

I have an empyre but my dad bought an older g200 it's a 2012. It's been running pretty good but it seems like it's making a lot of creosote at times. The tubes aren't gummy but the firebox close to the loading door is getting a lot. Also it's getting a lot of water at times when the fire box door is opened its even dripping out of the door. I have tried adjusting the doors tighter and I replaced the main door gasket tonight to see if it helps. Any guys out there running this model with any suggestions?

14

Electronics / Re: Older oil hot air furnace thermostat wiring

« on: October 28, 2015, 11:02:22 AM »

Just an update but I put in the relay and aquastat as RSI described and the everything works perfect, I did remove the red wire from the fan control so it does still have the limit control but the fan is controlled directly by the thermostat. Fired the stove up and got it all up to 180 and hit the thermostat and the fan kicked on and he is drawing about 20 to 25 degrees off of the heat exchanger in the plenum, I have gauges going in and out of it, the only problem is that the Ranco temperature probe isn't giving a great reading. It is taped to the brass tee that the gauge is on and when the temp on the gauge says 180 the Ranco says 125 guess I need to experiment where to put the probe to get a better reading. But thanks again for everyone's help

15

Electronics / Re: Older oil hot air furnace thermostat wiring

« on: October 20, 2015, 01:22:26 PM »

I follow you now thanks so much for all your help I really appreciate it.  I have a Honeywell 845a on the way and if  I run into problems I will post back, thanks for checking and keeping up with all my posts and questions