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Messages - poncho64

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 20, 2010, 08:56:59 AM »
That is exactly what I did. I used 4X6 treated tembers and dug them in level.  II had some utility pole crossarms and consideredusing them but opted to go with new timbers.  Cheap and works great!

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 18, 2010, 06:01:47 AM »
No need to pour a pad.  Mine sits on treated timbers. The weight is equally distributed on the beams.

3
Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 17, 2010, 09:16:29 AM »
I don't know why he changed that unless it's costs.  I like mine on the I beams sitting on timbers. No wind underneath it.  I have the NOFW 750 which he calls a hybird model for the Upper Penn.   I think his highest selling model is the MWOF 500.  he custom builds boilers of any kind.  he told me he buit a large one for a hog operation here in Indiana that burns rolls of corn stalks. 

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 17, 2010, 08:16:54 AM »
The craftsman ship is good the welds are good.  I think he has modified his design since I bought my unit. My unit sits in I beams on timbers. His current design is on legs like theWoodmaster.  Mine is enclosed so I can't say about the insulation.  Mine is extremely warm when I remove the back access door so I'd say it's well insulated.  I think he has some units for sale on ebay if you want to see the newer design.

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 17, 2010, 07:46:59 AM »
I've been burning since Mid November and only taken ashes out twice.  My ash bucket is only a 5 gallon bucket.  I have such a firebox that I can put in plenty of wood to hold on these single digit nights.  I usally take my ashes out on the front only after I've put wood to the back.  I let them burn completly from the fan blower in the front remove acouple of shovels full, then rake the coals from the back forward with a garden rake.  I've never had the fire out , I'm not sure how many days it would take for all the hot coals in the furnace to burn. Round firebox like a Woodmanster.  With the Woodmasters you can add an ash auger but not with this unit.  I really have not seen a need for any thing other than taking a few shovels out.  I load the unit up at night but when i'm around home and can keep an eye on it and I starve it for wood so I can burn some of the coals off. 

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 17, 2010, 07:15:06 AM »
I'd be happy to answer any questions I can about the unit.  I considered being a dealer but wasn't convinced there would be much support if there was an issue.  I like my unit , It works great and I think I can handle most any repair and maintenance.  It uses a Honeywell 419 aquastat, dayton 50CFM Blower( Round Flange) Wilo Star 16FX circ pumps.  I have a spare for everthing.   It is a round firebox design with no ash grate.   The firebox door opening is 20X20.  My unit weighs about 2380 #.  I did the installation myself without any issues.  The company owner delievered the  unit and placed it on my timber foundation.  The risk I think is the size ad stability of the company, I think I would make sure I received what I paid for as I went.  They did not require a dealer to purchase minimum units , he was willing to work on a unit by unit basis.

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Re: Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 16, 2010, 05:58:20 AM »
I paid $4600.  Mine is rated at 7500 sq ft. i would not buy any install packages i think you can do better with direct suppliers. This is a small business so I do not know how good the warranty and support is on the unit. Based on my limited experience I do not think support is very good.  I'm seeking other owners to learn their experiences.  The unit is fairy simple and I've purchased spare circ pumps, and  draft blower. All parts have been available from Grainger Supply, so i'm not fully dependent on support from the supplier.  I  hope to find out some performance track record on these furnaces from other owners.

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Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnace / Owners of Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces
« on: December 15, 2010, 01:45:21 PM »
I purchased a Midwest Outdoor Wood furnace this summer and I am very pleased with it's performance thus far this heating season.  The manufacturer has been repairing all brands of furnaces for twenty years and building his own brand of furnace for 18 years.  The firebox is constructed of 1/4 mild steel and is a round firebox design.  The model I purchased is a MOWF 750

Est Weight (lbs)2340
Width: 54"
Length: 106"
Height: 58"

Firebox Length: 50"
Door Size: 20" x 20"
Inlet: 2 -1” npt
Outlet: 2 -1” npt
Water Capacity Appox 300 gals.
Fan Capacity 50 cfm
Approx. Sq. Ft. 7,500
WInsulation Walls R 19
Insulation Roof R 38


Others with this make of furnace please reply with your years of ownership and experience with these furnaces.




9
Site Suggestions / Midwest outdoor Wood Furnace
« on: December 08, 2010, 07:33:03 AM »
I would like to see a new forum section added for Midwest Outdoor Wood Furnaces.  This company repairs all brands but also makes their own brand of wood boiler. He has been making them for 18 years.

10
Electronics / Re: Thermostat wiring
« on: December 08, 2010, 07:10:38 AM »
I have a Geothermal unit and have set up very similar.  The only difference is your zone valve.  I circulate through my furnace exchanger all the time but have the ability to bypass the exchanger during warm weather.   I was able to accomplish what you desire on your heat pump on my geothermal by connecting the red wire R (+24V) from my geo unit thermostat to the red(R) on my single stage Honewell.  Connect the W(heat) terminal on the single stage Honeywell to the G(Fan) terminal on heat pump thermostat.  I can keep my Geothermal as backup and I set it to come on 4 degrees below my boiler setting.   I do not have a zone valve but would say you could use the (G) fan output of your single stage thermostat to open your zone valve.  You could manually turn the fan to the on positon on the single stage thermostat to open the zone valve during heating times.  I'm not a HVAC person but the above setup worked well for me.  I found the wiring diagrham on the Central Boiler web site.

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