This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

HeatMaster / Parts for Older G200

« on: October 16, 2018, 06:00:57 AM »

My dad has an older Heatmaster G200. It is labeled as a Chinook 200 with a build date of 2011. I am in need of the nozzle refractory piece his has cracked. I can't seem to find it anywhere online. Any of you guys ever replace these or know where I can find one?

Thanks in advance

2

HeatMaster / Older G200 not gasifying

« on: January 30, 2016, 08:13:54 PM »

So I got my dads older (2011) G200 installed this fall and got it fired in November and it had been working great. At first I think he was overloading it a little and he was getting some creosote dripping out of the main door and some moisture at the lower ash clean out door. But now it seems to have a hard time gasifying. It will be loaded up and burning well with the main door open but when I close it and open the ash door its not gasifying or it is but just a little bit. I know the seals are probably bad and I can see a little smoke coming out of the main door in two spots but is that enough to keep it from gasifying? The chimney is clear as are the exchanger tubes, and I have tried clearing the nozzles on the refractory brick to make sure they are open. Also the solenoid is working correctly and the flap is opening. I tried to remove the air box on the back to see if it was clogged but could not get it off. It looks like it only has two bolts holding it but I can not get it off. Any ideas?

3

HeatMaster / Older g200 questions

« on: November 21, 2015, 08:22:07 PM »

I have an empyre but my dad bought an older g200 it's a 2012. It's been running pretty good but it seems like it's making a lot of creosote at times. The tubes aren't gummy but the firebox close to the loading door is getting a lot. Also it's getting a lot of water at times when the fire box door is opened its even dripping out of the door. I have tried adjusting the doors tighter and I replaced the main door gasket tonight to see if it helps. Any guys out there running this model with any suggestions?

4

Electronics / Older oil hot air furnace thermostat wiring

« on: October 12, 2015, 06:00:40 AM »

Finished up my dads stove install but now need to tackle the thermostat wiring so the blower runs on a call for heat and the oil furnace only runs when it drops to a lower point. I have read numerous posts on this and saw these instructions that utilizes one thermostat and will do exactly what I need it to

Red to Rh or Rc with jumper between the two.
Green to G and W/E with jumper between the two
White to the W2 for gas furnace
Yellow to Y for cooling.

My only problem is that his furnace is older, and it only has a two wire thermostat, just an old round honeywell that runs to two terminals marked T and T, and the fan is controlled by a limit switch, there is no relay or transformer. My question is how can I accomplish a one thermostat setup with his current setup or does it need to be done with two thermostats. It doesnt matter either way if one will work great or if he needs two thats fine, but all the reading Im doing they all have more than two wires so do I need to convert his oil furnace to a 24v setup or will the old wiring work, also his furnace does not have any AC. I appreciate any help

5

Empyre / Replacement Flapper Door

« on: March 26, 2015, 05:48:57 AM »

Went to clean my airbox last nite and once again it was full of gooey stuff, and its definitely rusting out the air box some of the stuff has metal on it. My flapper is about totally shot its paper thin. You guys that have gotten the new replacement flapper how did you do that? Do they send you a new one since this design isn't working right? Also I used a piece of copper wire to keep the flapper open after the blower shuts off to see if that helps with the build up in the air box. I turned my set point down to 178 and ran it and the when the blower turned off the stove only crept up to 179 or 180 so I think it might work. Ill post some updates in a week after Ive run it like that a while.

6

Empyre / Fixed one problem now have another

« on: March 09, 2015, 06:18:06 AM »

Second year with my Empyre Pro 200 and I had been getting moisture at my lower ash door, I figured my main door was leaking because I would see smoke from time to time coming out . Tried upping the set point and playing with the differential and would help some but still got moisture and in my air box I got some creosote but it was just hard stuff that came out easy. The other day when it was warm I decided to replace the main door gasket with some rope already coated with silicone, it fit nice but took some adjusting to get the door to close right but I got it and it seals up real nice, no more leaking smoke out the door and no more moisture at the lower ash door. But now my air box is getting gooey liquidy creosote like it did last year. I'm not overloading it and i'm burning good dry wood. Plus I'm noticing that when I clean out the air box of the creosote it's peeling some of the metal off, like rust is coming off in chunks which has me worried. I thought I read on here that someone removed the flapper and it helped with the condensation. I was thinking of doing that but was worried that when the blower shut down and if the flapper was not there the fire might keep going. Any ideas? I love this stove except for the air box and the crap Im getting in there.

7

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Empyre Pro 200 creosote in air box

« on: December 12, 2013, 08:22:30 AM »

On my newly installed Empyre Pro 200 I noticed Im getting a liquid like creosote mixture dripping out of the air box where the blower attaches. Took the blower off and found about an inch of creosote in there. Its not blocking the hole to the firebox but its thick on the bottom. Cleaned it all out and talked with my dealer and he said perhaps Im loading wood at the wrong time, before its all burned down. So I tried this past week to let it burn down further but Im still getting creosote in the air box, enough that I am cleaning it once a week. The one day I came home and the blower was on but the flapper was stuck shut, all it took was a slight bump and it opened but I don't know how long it had been like that. I cleaned it all off but its still getting covered. Now that its cold here I definitely don't want the flapper to stick shut. Anyone else encounter a problem like this? I am burning dry wood 12 to 18% and my return temp is never below 140. Other than that the stove is working great.

8

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Moisture at lower ash door Empyre Pro 200

« on: November 04, 2013, 05:43:12 AM »

Got my Empyre Pro 200 up and running last Saturday. Been burning what seems to to pretty dry wood, moisture meter is on the way. The weather has been mild here in central PA and at times I have been getting a little bit of moisture at the ash clean out door. But this morning it was 22 and I went out to check it at 6.00 am and opened the ash door and still got some moisture, any one else get this at all? I have some creosote build up in the firebox but its not as bad now that its a little colder. I scrape off what I can when I load wood into it and it seems to be going away a little bit not sure how else to get it off.

9

Plumbing / Wraparound pump size

« on: September 25, 2013, 09:08:21 AM »

Putting in my new outdoor wood boiler and I am connecting it to a pressurized hot water oil fired boiler. I am using a water to water exchanger so they will be on their own loops so to speak. My question is do I need a circulator to run through the oil boiler to keep it hot at all times? Central boiler has a diagram and they call it a wraparound pump. How would I size it or know which one to get?

10

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Sizing a boiler - BTU wise

« on: February 25, 2013, 09:22:44 AM »

Alright been trying to figure out what size boiler I need to be looking for. Talked with some people who told me to do a heat loss on the house I did that and came up with all kind of different numbers, didn't seem real accurate. So instead I have been keeping track of my exact oil usage. I figure my oil at 140,000 BTU's a gallon, boiler running at 82.3 efficeincy so I am netting 115,220 BTU per gallon. From October to December 67 days I used 223 gallons which works out to 15,978 BTU's per hour. Now when it was colder in January I used 26,671 BTU's an hour. Now I am keeping the house colder, 58 degrees with one zone coming up and down when Im there. My question is, is my line of thinking right that I need a boiler that will meet my BTU's per hour. I talked with an Empyre Dealer and he told me I would need the 200 not the 100. I do have another building that I would probably be heating in the future, it is built the same as my house just not quite as big and I would not be running the heat all the time, just maybe on the weekends. Let me know what you guys think.

11

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / OWB for PA

« on: February 23, 2013, 07:26:01 AM »

Been looking into getting an OWB and been doing some research on this site trying to decide on one. However I was told that since I am in PA I must only purchase one off of this list http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/owhhlist.html. So If I am to buy an OWB does it have to be from this list? I have been looking at a Heatmaster 5000E and Tennessee Outdoor stove but neither of those are on the list. Guess I just need a little clarification as to what I should or can even be looking for. My township does not have any restrictions on OWB's