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Regulations / EPA requirements for OWB
« on: March 11, 2015, 05:35:44 PM »
I haven't been keeping up. When are "standard" wood boilers no longer going to be allowed to buy/use/install? Is it different by state or a federal thing? Am I correct that a guy could still buy a used unit even after the EPA rules go into effect?
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Keeping Fire Going
« on: March 08, 2015, 09:04:21 PM »
As we're headed toward spring warmup, anyone else have trouble keeping their fire going? We've had it pretty easy in Minnesota this year and now this week headed for fifties and possibly 60 degrees. We keep the house low sixty range, as that is where we are comfortable. When it warms up like this I turn up the thermostat to 64 but even so, especially on sunny days, the house just doesn't call for enough to keep the fire burning well. Fair amount of creosote buildup, and I find myself leaving the stove door open just to give it enough air to get some coals going for at night when the house will ask for some heat (it's pretty well insulated). Any tips or tricks, short of setting the thermostat even higher?
3
Fire Wood / Bulk or pulp cords in So. MN.
« on: February 06, 2014, 08:10:06 PM »
I've still got plenty of wood already cut and that I can cut, out on my 5 acres. Problem will be if we get too much more snow I won't be able to get the four wheeler around the woods to get it out. I've also left a few good dead trees standing near the driveway that I can pull out by hand. But I've been looking for some bulk log firewood to be delivered just in case. I can do the cutting. Know anyone selling bulk logs just south of the twin cities in Minnesota?
4
Aqua-Therm / Leaking pump screw?
« on: February 06, 2014, 07:37:28 PM »
I have an Aqua-Therm 145. The inline pump has a a "screw" for opening and closing the flange on the pump. Last week or two I've been dropping pressure (16 psi down to 10) over the course of a couple days. I've refilled and tried to bleed any air from the system but pressure still drops. So I started looking at everything closely and there is a bit of water in the hole on top of the pump where the screw is, plus a little bit of steam coming off it. So I think it's leaking right there and evaporating off so no obvious signs of leaking or dripping water.
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
5
Plumbing / Leak on pump
« on: February 06, 2014, 07:34:14 PM »
I have an Aqua-Therm 145. The inline pump has a a "screw" for opening and closing the flange on the pump. Last week or two I've been dropping pressure (16 psi down to 10) over the course of a couple days. I've refilled and tried to bleed any air from the system but pressure still drops. So I started looking at everything closely and there is a bit of water in the hole on top of the pump where the screw is, plus a little bit of steam coming off it. So I think it's leaking right there and evaporating off so no obvious signs of leaking or dripping water.
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
Does this screw have an o ring or gasket that might be bad and can be replaced, or can the whole screw be replaced, assuming it screws all the way out? Thanks
6
Electronics / Aquastat setting
« on: February 04, 2014, 11:17:51 PM »
Hi all, I'm new to this forum. Let's just say I wish I had found you all awhile ago. I have a '96 Aqua-therm model 145 (the smaller one). Came with the place when I bought it a few years later. I have several issues that I have basically been overcoming over the years, and have learned anything I know on my own. But I'll address them all separately, assuming I can/am able. Please bear with me while I explain.
So the older gentleman that added this unit to his existing propane forced air furnace seemed to have taken a bit of an unconventional route. Instead of running water pipe underground into the house and thru a heat exchanger inside, he built a shed to house the boiler not far from the house. He then did just a short run of water pipe inside the shed and thru a heat exchanger out there, then buried a 10 or 12" PVC pipe underground and into the basement furnace room and into the plenum of the propane furnace. So basically it's a forced air system with a very short run of pipe.
When the room thermostat calls for heat it kicks on the motor that drives the heat exchanger. The problem is that the heat exch runs for quite a while but the furnace fan only kicks on a few times during that time and blows warm air into the house for maybe ten seconds per time. So it's drawing heat off the water pipe continuously but not putting all that heat into the house. We'll address that a bit down the road.
My immediate question is what is generally recommended for the aqua stat setting between 160-180 that will allow the stove to keep up the heat without going thru the wood as fast? Am I better lower, say 170, where the stove can rebuild the heat quicker but I assume the air blown into the house is less warm, or 180 where it may take longer to get it back up to temp?
I'll follow up on the other questions, unless the answer to this one is related to fixing those first. I appreciate anyone who has stayed with me this far and is willing to offer some advice. Thanks!
So the older gentleman that added this unit to his existing propane forced air furnace seemed to have taken a bit of an unconventional route. Instead of running water pipe underground into the house and thru a heat exchanger inside, he built a shed to house the boiler not far from the house. He then did just a short run of water pipe inside the shed and thru a heat exchanger out there, then buried a 10 or 12" PVC pipe underground and into the basement furnace room and into the plenum of the propane furnace. So basically it's a forced air system with a very short run of pipe.
When the room thermostat calls for heat it kicks on the motor that drives the heat exchanger. The problem is that the heat exch runs for quite a while but the furnace fan only kicks on a few times during that time and blows warm air into the house for maybe ten seconds per time. So it's drawing heat off the water pipe continuously but not putting all that heat into the house. We'll address that a bit down the road.
My immediate question is what is generally recommended for the aqua stat setting between 160-180 that will allow the stove to keep up the heat without going thru the wood as fast? Am I better lower, say 170, where the stove can rebuild the heat quicker but I assume the air blown into the house is less warm, or 180 where it may take longer to get it back up to temp?
I'll follow up on the other questions, unless the answer to this one is related to fixing those first. I appreciate anyone who has stayed with me this far and is willing to offer some advice. Thanks!
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