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31
Central Boiler / Re: low water sensor replacement
« on: November 22, 2014, 06:59:07 PM »
How did you make out getting the old switch out? When mine went I tried backing it out and the whole outer portion broke right off. I left it for the last 2 years that way just bypassing the switch. Finally, a week or so ago before I lit that furnace I decided to tackle it. Basically I decided I'd try to heat around it with a torch. As expected, it started to melt. Tried pulling the guts out with a pair of pliers gripping the remaining wire ends sticking out. Could not quite get it to happen that way and ended up losing it inside. Used the torch to try to burn the remaining plastic out of the threads along with wire wheels and a Dremel. Then still could not get the new one to thread in. Ended up using a brass plug of the same size and after some work managed to get it to start threading in. Had to work it back and forth many times trying to get it a little further each time as it was extremely tight. Finally got it to where I thought it was far enough. I know it was not cross threaded but it was stripping a little bit of the threads off the plug as I screwed it in. I kept cleaning out the shards. Once done with that the new switch screwed right in and all is good. Not sure screwing plastic into steel is the best choice especially where such heat is involved. Plastic breaks down. Thread seal gets hardened. What would seem to be an easy task turned into over 2 hours. A little frustrating. Wondered for a while if I should have left well enough alone.
Anyone else have any fun adventures with this?
Anyone else have any fun adventures with this?
32
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wood Splitter
« on: November 22, 2014, 06:38:08 PM »
Trust me Slim, I'd really enjoy the ease of the chip burner. Just still not sure about the chip storage. $30k or so for the burner and could easily spend another $10k on storage. Used trailers is probably the most reasonable way to do it since I'm not sure if anyone around here has a live bottom trailer. How are you handling the storage part with your chip burner?? The biggest problem I face is that I still haven't found the tree that the money is growing on and I don't have a cubic dollar. So for now I make due with what I have. I keep watching, reading and learning all I can in the meantime.
Jeff
Jeff
33
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wood Splitter
« on: November 21, 2014, 03:01:48 PM »
Kind of like this one? http://www.hud-son.com/products/product-detail/badger I see they have the Wolverine model too which is a little smaller unit and less money. But in the long run I'd really like to move over to the P&M chip burner.
34
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heat Upstairs
« on: November 21, 2014, 07:02:07 AM »
I don't have any way of knowing what the flow rate is. My math skills are not that good. But, I've been running this way since 2008. My house is never as comfortable while running the oil burner. First off, it's a more consistent heat temp coming out the vents. Oil burners get very hot so you get hotter air coming out at first. Then you get the cool down cycles. The air temp always seems to be changing. They way I am set up with the 1" zone valve and 1" Pex fed by 009 Taco pump is much more consistent. The zone valve is wired in between the thermostat and the fan center relay switch. The way it works is good in that when the thermostat calls for heat it opens the valve first for a few seconds to allow the hot water to preheat the HX before engaging the blower. So the only cool air I get is just what's in the pipes on startup.
For reference also, my other 5 HXs are in greenhouses. Very high demand for heat in a greenhouse (oh, I do run 2 OWBs during the greenhouse season). All of those heat exchangers are fed by 007 pumps using 3/4" pex and 3/4" zone valves. All 6 HXs are rated at approx. 140k btu (roughly 19"x20" I think)
For reference also, my other 5 HXs are in greenhouses. Very high demand for heat in a greenhouse (oh, I do run 2 OWBs during the greenhouse season). All of those heat exchangers are fed by 007 pumps using 3/4" pex and 3/4" zone valves. All 6 HXs are rated at approx. 140k btu (roughly 19"x20" I think)
35
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heat Upstairs
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:13:01 PM »
I'm a little surprised nobody has mentioned this,...........but as I read it, it sounds like your HX is hot all the time?? That would cause a constant radiation of heat to the main floor for sure. I've got a total of 6 water to air HX's with blowers set up. Each of them are set up with a 3-way zone valve at the HX to stop the flow of hot water to the HX when there is no call for heat. At the time I set it up I didn't know any better. My dealer suggested I set it up with the zone valve. Said it would save wood. The first night I lit the furnace (back in 2008) I did not have the wiring finished in the house so I left the zone valve open to allow the hot water to flow. With temps outside in the 40's overnight, my house was over 80 just from the radiant heat that night. I'd never run without the 3-way zone valve. I would think if you installed a zone valve, the main floor would be allowed to cool at the same rate or closer rate to the upstairs so as to maintain a more consistent temperature throughout the house.
36
Central Boiler / Re: E2300 New Primary Air Channel
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:58:31 AM »
Slightly off subject, but does anyone have any pictures they could share showing the inside of the E2400? I'm particularly interested in the primary air channel setup and wonder if it would be worth trying to retrofit a similar design into my E2300. I think I saw one out here once a couple of years ago. If I remember correctly it was quite damaged. I wonder what they have done in newer designs...... I have not had the privilege to get out and see any new models.
37
Central Boiler / Re: E2300 New Primary Air Channel
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:48:04 AM »
Cool! Here's a couple more.
38
Central Boiler / Re: E2300 New Primary Air Channel
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:43:32 AM »
Trying one more time to post pics. Let's see if this works.
39
Central Boiler / Re: Fire won't re-kindle very well
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:37:46 AM »
Being that it's a non-gasser, I've seen other posts in the past about the chimney getting plugged. Might be worth a check if you have not already.
40
Central Boiler / Re: Uses no wood at all
« on: November 17, 2014, 07:03:02 PM »
5050racing,
I have the older E2300 without firestar controller. So I do not have any input about that. I'm just curious to know if you have visually checked to see if the fan and solenoids are functioning? I open my airbox all the time when the furnace is running and see the solenoids in action and of course it's easy to see and hear the fan running. Again, you can temporarily wire a cord end to the fan so that you can plug it in direct to a power source. Easy test. I have about 10 of these blowers running around my greenhouse business. They run until the bearings seize up. Can't imagine why yours is burnt but still spins free. Doesn't make sense to me. Only other thing I can think of is the primary air channel being plugged up?? Not sure man, just trying to throw out some ideas.
Good luck!
Jeff
I have the older E2300 without firestar controller. So I do not have any input about that. I'm just curious to know if you have visually checked to see if the fan and solenoids are functioning? I open my airbox all the time when the furnace is running and see the solenoids in action and of course it's easy to see and hear the fan running. Again, you can temporarily wire a cord end to the fan so that you can plug it in direct to a power source. Easy test. I have about 10 of these blowers running around my greenhouse business. They run until the bearings seize up. Can't imagine why yours is burnt but still spins free. Doesn't make sense to me. Only other thing I can think of is the primary air channel being plugged up?? Not sure man, just trying to throw out some ideas.
Good luck!
Jeff
41
Central Boiler / Re: E2300 - First Timer
« on: November 15, 2014, 10:09:19 AM »
I've been having the same problem trying to post pics. Not set up or familiar with photo bucket or any other photo sharing sites. Is nice to just post them here, when it works.
42
Central Boiler / Re: e2400 blowing fuses during startup
« on: November 13, 2014, 07:53:39 PM »
I had good luck spraying my solenoids with Fluid Film last year. I had one that was buzzing really loud. Gave it a good spray, worked the mechanism up and down several times and it quieted right down. Hasn't been a problem since. Sprayed them again tonight just for precaution.
43
Central Boiler / Re: E2300 New Primary Air Channel
« on: November 13, 2014, 07:26:42 PM »
5050racing
Do you question whether your blower is working? I'm not familiar with the 1450 but should be similar to 2300. During run cycle open up the back door to access the air box. You should see and hear the blower fan running. If it is, then I'd open the air box and make sure both solenoids (primary and secondary) are open. If they are, the next step would be to maybe remove the top (primary air) solenoid to check the air tube for creosote build-up. Clean out if necessary. If I'm not mistaken, the 1450 air channel in the firebox is welded in place (same as the 2300) with no way to clean it out thoroughly. To check that you would need to let the fire burn out and probe the holes with a rigid wire or something. If the primary air tube is backed up to the solenoid with creosote, then it stands to reason that the air channel in the firebox is plugged up. It this appears to be your problem I'd be happy to send the pics of what I've done. Just pm me your e-mail address.
If the blower is not working, one more quick test would be to temporarily wire a plug end onto the blower wires and plug it in. If that works there might be another electrical issue.
Jeff
Do you question whether your blower is working? I'm not familiar with the 1450 but should be similar to 2300. During run cycle open up the back door to access the air box. You should see and hear the blower fan running. If it is, then I'd open the air box and make sure both solenoids (primary and secondary) are open. If they are, the next step would be to maybe remove the top (primary air) solenoid to check the air tube for creosote build-up. Clean out if necessary. If I'm not mistaken, the 1450 air channel in the firebox is welded in place (same as the 2300) with no way to clean it out thoroughly. To check that you would need to let the fire burn out and probe the holes with a rigid wire or something. If the primary air tube is backed up to the solenoid with creosote, then it stands to reason that the air channel in the firebox is plugged up. It this appears to be your problem I'd be happy to send the pics of what I've done. Just pm me your e-mail address.
If the blower is not working, one more quick test would be to temporarily wire a plug end onto the blower wires and plug it in. If that works there might be another electrical issue.
Jeff
44
Central Boiler / Re: E2300 New Primary Air Channel
« on: November 13, 2014, 06:30:21 AM »
boilerman,
To start, my air channels started falling apart before they offered the removable kit. I did contemplate getting the kit last year or the year before but in thinking about it I felt that it would be more of a process to clean the firebox. Getting those pieces out would require a complete shutdown and cleanout of coals and creosote. My pipe system is removable even when there is a bed of coals. Also, last year I had to have the sidewalls relined with 1/4" plate. I had the welder take the new sidewalls right down to the bottom, over where the old channels were giving me a nice straight sidewall. Remember I had the oldest version of the 2300 which originally had a lip on top of the air channel where a double stack of firebrick sat. All of the secondary air pieces have been upgraded. I have the new fusion combustor and got rid of the grate bars and floor refractory which were a pain.
5050racing,
I tried posting my pics last night but it kept saying upload folder full, even with just one small picture. Tried several times. I'll try again now.
The hardest part of the job is getting the old channel out. Piecing the pipes together is easy. Just take the time to get them as tight as possible. The channel basically supports itself when in place. If necessary one could prop up the front ends with a piece of steel or brick if necessary. Drilling the holes takes an hour or so, or at least it did for me. I expect I'll get 2 seasons out of it. Then I'll make another. Cost is around $90 for pipe fittings.
I just tried posting this with pics and was denied again. sorry. I'd be happy to e-mail them. PM me.
Jeff
To start, my air channels started falling apart before they offered the removable kit. I did contemplate getting the kit last year or the year before but in thinking about it I felt that it would be more of a process to clean the firebox. Getting those pieces out would require a complete shutdown and cleanout of coals and creosote. My pipe system is removable even when there is a bed of coals. Also, last year I had to have the sidewalls relined with 1/4" plate. I had the welder take the new sidewalls right down to the bottom, over where the old channels were giving me a nice straight sidewall. Remember I had the oldest version of the 2300 which originally had a lip on top of the air channel where a double stack of firebrick sat. All of the secondary air pieces have been upgraded. I have the new fusion combustor and got rid of the grate bars and floor refractory which were a pain.
5050racing,
I tried posting my pics last night but it kept saying upload folder full, even with just one small picture. Tried several times. I'll try again now.
The hardest part of the job is getting the old channel out. Piecing the pipes together is easy. Just take the time to get them as tight as possible. The channel basically supports itself when in place. If necessary one could prop up the front ends with a piece of steel or brick if necessary. Drilling the holes takes an hour or so, or at least it did for me. I expect I'll get 2 seasons out of it. Then I'll make another. Cost is around $90 for pipe fittings.
I just tried posting this with pics and was denied again. sorry. I'd be happy to e-mail them. PM me.
Jeff
45
Central Boiler / E2300 New Primary Air Channel
« on: November 12, 2014, 07:38:12 PM »
Hello all,
Over the past several years I've spent a quite a lot of time on this site. Many of you have probably seen some of my posts and pics. It's been quite a learning experience over the years. I've spent way too much time scratching my head and getting frustrated. I have recently replaced the primary air channel in my E2300 again. I refined and simplified the design quite a lot and so far it seems to be working well. One necessary additional accessory is to add the spacer bar kit on the sidewalls. Or, make your own. I think a U-shaped piece of rebar would work well leaning against the walls and is much cheaper without having to weld tabs onto the sidewalls. Also easily replaceable and removable for cleaning. The main reason for adding this is to help keep wood from sitting on the pipes. I'm attaching a full parts list to fit my furnace. Note that I have had my sidewalls relined with 1/4" plate so my firebox is slightly narrower. Not enough to make a difference I don't think but you may need to increase the width of the channel by 1/2 or so on each side to keep the pipe as close to the sidewall as possible. I drilled 5 holes in each side. 30" pipe. Drilled a 1/2" whole in 2" from each end and spaced the remaining 3 holes 6 1/2" apart.
I'm happy to try to answer any questions. Hope this info helps somebody.
I guess I'll have to try to post the pictures tomorrow. Keeps telling me the upload folder is full. Hope this goes through.
Over the past several years I've spent a quite a lot of time on this site. Many of you have probably seen some of my posts and pics. It's been quite a learning experience over the years. I've spent way too much time scratching my head and getting frustrated. I have recently replaced the primary air channel in my E2300 again. I refined and simplified the design quite a lot and so far it seems to be working well. One necessary additional accessory is to add the spacer bar kit on the sidewalls. Or, make your own. I think a U-shaped piece of rebar would work well leaning against the walls and is much cheaper without having to weld tabs onto the sidewalls. Also easily replaceable and removable for cleaning. The main reason for adding this is to help keep wood from sitting on the pipes. I'm attaching a full parts list to fit my furnace. Note that I have had my sidewalls relined with 1/4" plate so my firebox is slightly narrower. Not enough to make a difference I don't think but you may need to increase the width of the channel by 1/2 or so on each side to keep the pipe as close to the sidewall as possible. I drilled 5 holes in each side. 30" pipe. Drilled a 1/2" whole in 2" from each end and spaced the remaining 3 holes 6 1/2" apart.
I'm happy to try to answer any questions. Hope this info helps somebody.
I guess I'll have to try to post the pictures tomorrow. Keeps telling me the upload folder is full. Hope this goes through.