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 1 
 on: April 08, 2022, 09:29:25 PM 
Started by duramax - Last post by RSI
The height doesn't matter much. It is the size and length of pipe and what else it has to push water through that would determine what will work.
If you have a fairly short unrestricted run, a Grundfos Alpha might pump as much or more than the 009. If it is longer, it would probably be less but still may work.

A Grundfos 15-58 or Taco 0015 are about the same size as the alpha but use about 85 watts compared to the Alpha at about 40 watts.

There are other brands of ECM pumps that have similar flow ratings as the Alpha. I haven't looked at what Taco has lately but the 007E is probably too small.

 2 
 on: April 07, 2022, 02:34:46 PM 
Started by duramax - Last post by duramax
After 8 years the Taco 009 circulator died. I am looking to find an energy efficient replacement. The height it has to pump is around 14 feet, boiler to the basement. I use a heat exchanger so I don't need to pump up three stories. Anyone know of a good pump for this?

 3 
 on: March 27, 2022, 07:02:17 PM 
Started by Super44 - Last post by Super44
It seems my water lever float has cracked at the neck like the one before it.  Should have gotten a spare or two.

 4 
 on: March 10, 2022, 06:40:34 PM 
Started by ThatDonkeyLooksCold - Last post by ThatDonkeyLooksCold
For reference, I have since talked to CB about the pulse time not being counted as burn time. They said that changed a couple of software versions ago, and the controller now only counts burn time in demand mode. So no issues there.

Yeah I've seen a lot of graphs that look like yours (from before they went to reaction chamber percentages instead of temperature). CB explained that now the secondary combustion occurs in the "fireball" in these newer models, and since the temp sensor is on the other side of the round fireball refractory percentages are more consistent than temperature readings.

I definitely don't have a creosote issue. I have had both air tubes out and verified they are clear, as well as the plate on the inside front of the boiler. There is little to no creosote built up in either the primary or secondary elbows as well.

Yeah there is warranty support. I have been in contact with Central Boiler, and they are fairly convinced I have a software or hardware issue. I'll know by tomorrow if they're going to send me a new controller, primary stepper, or both.

They have me checking my stepper motors in each "demand" cycle, and I caught it a couple days ago stalled out with the reaction chamber at 38% and not climbing. When I checked my steppers, both primary and secondary were basically shut and only open millimeters at best. I'll let you know what CB decides to do with it.

Thanks for the reply!

 5 
 on: March 02, 2022, 12:35:11 PM 
Started by ThatDonkeyLooksCold - Last post by bjp
It may be worth reaching out to Central Boiler support directly for an answer on the "should pulse time be counted as burn time" question. On my 750HD pulse time adds to the total burn time. But the HDX may be programmed differently - I can see that your graph looks different from mine in that mine displays reaction chamber temperatures, not percentages, so this may be an intentional change (see my attachment below).

I'm burning a mix of woods, some oak, birch, ash, cherry, maple, nothing consistent from burn to burn. Your issue with the actuators may be the root cause, I've never had mine get stuck or fail to open in any way. If those aren't opening it would explain what you are seeing. I wonder if you are getting some creosote buildup in the elbows at the cap preventing them from opening or if the linkage is just sticking somehow. Perhaps some kind of lubrication where the cap meets the elbow would keep them from getting stuck.

With how new your install is there should be warranty support available. I had my blower motor die the first year and it was replaced for free after going through CB support to my dealer. You shouldn't have to be messing with this thing in the middle of the night like you are and I think their support crew will get someone hands on to take a look.

 6 
 on: February 10, 2022, 01:20:53 AM 
Started by ThatDonkeyLooksCold - Last post by ThatDonkeyLooksCold
Hey thanks for the reply and the tips, much appreciated.

When I say "clean the firebox" I just meant removing excess ash and creosote, not a full shutdown and scrape clean type of thing. I do scrape the loading door almost every day.

What kind of wood are you burning? I think if I went to your settings I'd have a fire go out every few days at least. My target temp is the same but I'm pulsing over twice as often and for much longer minimums.

I do agree it's probably an airflow issue- I'm actually starting to suspect I have a problem with my firestar controller- I woke up to my alarm last night at 3:45 am that the fire was out, so I went and had a look. Pushed the ignition air button, checked my primary and secondary actuators and they didn't seem to be open at all. I powered the furnace off and back on, and did a self-test on the firestar controller, both actuators opened fully. I did a factory reset to the controller, powered it off and back on again for now. I've been keeping an eye on the actuators over the last 20 hours and they don't seem to be opening well at all.

Another issue I have is my controller isn't counting burn time when the fan is running in pulse mode, which makes no sense. Nothing I do seems to fix that issue either.... this is another reason I'm leaning towards this being a controller issue. I also did a software update about a week ago which changed nothing.

I'll attach a screenshot of what the past 24 hours have looked like for me

 7 
 on: February 07, 2022, 04:22:23 PM 
Started by ThatDonkeyLooksCold - Last post by bjp
I've been running a Classic Edge 750 (the year before the HDX) for 3 winters now. The first winter I had a few issues with the fire going out, which I blamed more on myself as operator error than anything else, but here are the things I would try in your situation.

When you say you are cleaning out the firebox once a month, how clean do you mean? I really don't clean out the firebox until the end of the season, running the pole through the coal bed to create air channels pushes enough ash and such down into the reaction chamber that I've found no need to clean (ash out) the firebox during the season. Do scrape the walls, any creosote buildup, and the loading door, but I think these things want more ash and coals in the firebox than I was comfortable leaving in there at first.

I use a 10 degree differential, 40 second idle pulse minimum timeout, 35 minute pulse interval, and a 300F pulse target temperature. Are you seeing temperatures drop well below your pulse target in between pulses?  If it isn't dropping much below your 310F pulse target, it will only pulse for the pulse minimum timeout which may not be enough to get the coals hot again.

Inside the firebox along the air channels at the bottom on the left and right, is there any chance the air holes are plugged? Or, are you loading wood densely enough that it is blocking those air holes? The low reaction chamber temps and fire going out make me think of an airflow issue. I'm not familiar with the fan on the 360HDX but I can sure hear and feel the air output on the 750. The air control box on the front might be worth taking a look at too, if it is not properly mounted to the boiler it could leave an air gap which will cause the fan to blow air out of the box instead of through the pipe elbows and into the system.

When I wasn't leaving enough coals at the bottom I rarely saw reaction chamber temps above 1000F, after leaving more in there and arranging logs with more empty space in the firebox I started to regularly see 1200-1700F temps. I feel like this is an airflow thing.

 8 
 on: February 06, 2022, 06:09:46 AM 
Started by ThatDonkeyLooksCold - Last post by shepherd boy
Hope someone familiar with CB Edge can help you out. Deferential and pulse is what I hear people adjust to get desired results. Seems to me like under 1000 reaction chamber temps is really low. Hate to think this is normal for an edge.

 9 
 on: January 30, 2022, 12:11:43 PM 
Started by MarkP - Last post by MarkP
Sorry I haven't checked in for a while.  I have some health issues, which includes 3 spine surgeries, and I've had a bit of a setback with the lumbar surgeries.  Procedures are scheduled for next month, and I haven't been able to get under the house and check much of anything, but with the recent snow we've had, I can see where the snow melts over the buried lines.  I can see a definite problem within 12 feet of the wood boiler.  The 6 inch snowfall we've had recently hasn't even covered the ground above the line, even with temperatures in the single digits..  That tells me I have a major heat loss in that area.  The stove can't keep up with heating the 1050 sq. ft. garage, and the 1680 sq. ft house at the same time.  I didn't have that issue when I was heating both about 4 years ago.  I'm guessing that the 6" pipe that I buried, that I run the water lines through, has water in it.  I had sold my last stove several years ago, and had tried to keep the pipe covered, in case I was ever to put new lines in with a new stove.  I think if the 6" pipe has water in it, it would create a heat loss/transfer that would melt the snow above it.  This is just theory, and my wife mentioned when she pulled the lines through, there was a little moisture on the lines.  That first 12 feet was buried about 12" deeper than the rest of the pipe, as I had to come up on the house end, to get over the footer.  This is all theory, but for me, it makes sense. 

Now...with my current health, and the first of February around the corner, I've decided that I can't make corrections at this time.  I'll just live with the heat loss to the house, and be glad I have heat in the shop.  Once good weather moves in, I'll decided what my options are to get the water out of the pipe, if that is the case.  Being that close to the boiler end, I may be able to use a shop vac and suck it out.  If not, I'll figure something else out.

As always.... I'm open to, and appreciate your suggestions.  Thanks for the help!!

 10 
 on: January 27, 2022, 05:59:05 PM 
Started by ThatDonkeyLooksCold - Last post by ThatDonkeyLooksCold
Hi everyone, new to the forum and to wood boilers in general. My wife and I moved onto an acreage last summer that had nothing but electric heat in all the buildings. We installed a Central Boiler classic edge 360HDX this fall, and got it fired up in the first week of December. We're heating two buildings- our 1700 sq ft house via a forced air heat exchanger, and our small (4-500 sq ft) cabin, with the CB fan convector (part # 1971).

I'm burning mostly pine and spruce as that is what makes up most of the firewood around my area (Northern BC). Ideally I'd burn hardwood but it's hard to get around here. It's definitely dry as it all reads below 20% on my moisture meter, most of it around 12-14%.

When I first started the boiler, I left the settings as factory: 185F setpoint, 20 deg temp differential, 30 min idle pulse timeout, 225F target pulse temp. I found it almost impossible to keep a fire going, I would get one good burn, and then the fire would go out the next time there was a call for heat. I called CB and discussed settings with them, they recommended a 15 deg temp differential, 20 min pulse timeout, and 260F target temperature. Even with these settings, the fire would still go out every few days.

I've been playing with the settings ever since, and initially set it for 185 set/ 15 differential/ 10 min timeout/ 310 pulse temp. Extreme, I know, but it's the only way I could get it to run. Now I've gotten it down to a 15 min timeout and 300 pulse temp, and it mostly does ok, but still goes out once every week or two and I have to watch it like a hawk.

This was fine when the weather was colder (we had almost a month of 0F to -35F weather, but now that it's warmed up to around 30F, my pulses are so close together that the water is getting close to overheating in the afternoon when the sun is out and warming my buildings.

I've never seen a reaction chamber temperature over 1000, usually in the 800s even after it's been at 100% for 10+ minutes. My coal bed is always at least a couple inches deep, and when the boiler does go out, there's still tons of coals underneath the unburnt wood.

The previous owners did leave a bunch of dry, split birch in a firewood shed that measured at 12%, so I tried that for a while but it didn't seem to make much difference. Neither did burning some reject 2x6 that i had lying around.  Obviously I'm burning more wood than I'd like with such extreme pulse settings, but I don't seem to have much choice. I've been cleaning the reaction chamber and heat exchangers every week, and the firebox once a month.

Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

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