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[cranman]

Just became a member today. Just replaced my 200 gal Homesteader after 20 years with practically the same model. My lake water is soft with a Ph about 6 so in my old boiler I added Phplus used in swimming pools to keep it high. Didn't really monitor it, just mixed a pound or two in a pail every season and put it in. I'm planning to be more informed and proactive on this new boiler so will be checking with the nitrate testing too. Was just wondering if anyone else had used the Ph+ pool chemical

[Scott7m]

You need to use a quality boiler treatment, the best on the market is from certified labs, it's great stuff.   

There is a lot more stuff to worry about than just ph and a quality treatment can cover them.

Ph should be from 8.8-11.0
Conductivity should be no higher than 4000
Nitrite level should be 750-1500

There are several knock off boiler treatments that aren't complete, be careful what you buy. 

[cranman]

    Haven't filled yet. Did a pool test on my lake water : Bromine 2
                                                                            Free chlorine 0
                                                                            Total Alkalinity 80
                                                                            pH 8.4 plus
                                                                            Hardness 100
  My nitrate strips I use to check Caterpillar dozer rads says about 2000pm, s I guess I'll start with the lake water and order in a container of boiler tonic. Thanks for the info.

[Scott7m]

Do not use lake water.......   

Use regular tap water.  Lake water is full of organics, those organics settle to the bottom keeping forming a layer that can potentially block the chemical from reaching and forming a coating on the steel.

There can be a lot of organic material settle out when were talking large quanities like in boilers..

[cranman]

Now I am puzzled. My lake water IS my tap water and it is of the highest quality. Our town water supply is from the lake and the only chemical added is a bit of chlorine. I don't live in town, so have no chlorine and my waterline comes from a point 100 yards from shore and 8 ft deep. It is filtered for sand but I rarely find any on changing filters twice a year in spring and fall.

[Scott7m]

If it has been filtered that's fine,  I thought you were just going to siphon it out of the lake or something lol

Best of Luck, look for certified labs chemicals, if you can't find it let me know and I'll tell you where to get it

[cranman]

Thanks Scott. Emailing my dealer with the lake water results and ordering the additive. Got by for 20 years with just adjusting the ph up a bit but I do remember adding the boiler tonic to the first fill and again about 10 years ago.Thanks again.

[Scott7m]

   take care of it and it will take care of you

[cranman]

Well I am up and running again with the new boiler installed. I took 3 jam jars and three rolls of steelwool and did a bit of a test. I filled one jar with my tap water, one with my boiler water treated with the additive (about 9Ph) and one with my tapwater and Ph plus bringing it to 11Ph. The first with straight tap water was showing corrosion by the next day and is rusty after one week. The other two are as clear as when I put them in. So although there are other things to consider, I am thinking Ph is a major concern for boiler water.

[rosewood]

I do the same tests as my swimming pool and treat with same