Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
61
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water Jacket size---------Smaller/Bigger is Better?
« on: September 05, 2014, 12:29:49 PM »
I"m curious about a few things, everyone seems to just be comparing water gallons, not really how the heat is distributed, so my question is, how can you compare only water gallons in the boiler, and not really worrying about things like, say for example, one boiler is hooked to a heat exchanger radiator where a fan blows through it, and another is hooked solely to infloor heat in the concrete floor of a shop or basement, wouldn't the infloor heat have more thero storage as some call it, than the one with just a radiator/fan setup or doesn't that factor into any of the equation?
Then don't things like piping distance's, total footage of piping and lastly how well insulated the heated building is, all factor into that equation somewhere.
In theory, won't a small water jacket, and large water jacket use the same amount of wood to heat the save given space, once the water's hot and you discount the wasted heat at the end of the heating season, if these are taken out of the equation isn't about the only thing left things like burn times and temp fluctuation.
Then when do things like efficiency come into play, how is furnace efficiency calculated?
Then don't things like piping distance's, total footage of piping and lastly how well insulated the heated building is, all factor into that equation somewhere.
In theory, won't a small water jacket, and large water jacket use the same amount of wood to heat the save given space, once the water's hot and you discount the wasted heat at the end of the heating season, if these are taken out of the equation isn't about the only thing left things like burn times and temp fluctuation.
Then when do things like efficiency come into play, how is furnace efficiency calculated?
62
Wood Doctor / Re: extra large wood doctor blower motor specs
« on: September 04, 2014, 05:11:57 PM »
The motor I had on mine was running at 2000 rpm, the one that's supposed to be on it, spins at 3100 rpm's, I just got a new one today, so this weekend we'll get it installed, should make a huge difference in how the furnace works, thanks slimjim for the info.
63
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Payback
« on: September 04, 2014, 05:07:30 PM »
Wood requires requires a few words nobody in public office wants to utter, its called "physical work".
Imagine what life would be like if anyone requiring heating assistance would get a free wood furnace instead of dollars for heating assistance?
Anything requiring any form of physical labor is going to be considerably cheaper than other forms of alternative energy that only requires a person to write out a check and no physical labor is really ever involved, thus if you really understand how they system works, its no surprise they reward those who don't have to work, and tax and penalize those that do work, how would welfare ever survive if it were the other way around? Just an observation.
Imagine what life would be like if anyone requiring heating assistance would get a free wood furnace instead of dollars for heating assistance?
Anything requiring any form of physical labor is going to be considerably cheaper than other forms of alternative energy that only requires a person to write out a check and no physical labor is really ever involved, thus if you really understand how they system works, its no surprise they reward those who don't have to work, and tax and penalize those that do work, how would welfare ever survive if it were the other way around? Just an observation.
64
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Payback
« on: September 04, 2014, 05:00:33 AM »
I bought a whole new system and boiler when I did mine, just out of sheer luck, I was heating with lp gas at the time in a rented house, had nothing contracted for price on lp gas and gas price shot up to over four bucks a gallon, we did the math and I paid for mine in five months the very first winter, I had originally figured it to take me five years.
65
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: grates in an outdoor boiler
« on: September 04, 2014, 04:52:49 AM »
I've been looking at a furnace that has both shaker grates and is brick lined in the fire box, I was thinking the shaker grates would make it nicer to get the finer ashes out more frequently than just shoveling out everything and putting back in the larger pieces to finish burning. Which brings about my next question, are rust issues more prone in the ash zone than anywhere else on the furnace, basically is ash caustic?
66
Wood Doctor / Re: Leaky WD14000
« on: September 03, 2014, 07:51:45 PM »
Mine started leaking in the back towards the bottom over a year ago, its about the same age as yours is, I'm thinking a 2006. Another leak came in the weld that was used to fix it, about six months after the first repair. Was hoping to bide some time before buying another furnace, to give me time to figure out what make and model to buy along with coming up with the money to do it. Anyone have an idea how long they last after the repairs have been done to them and the first start leaking?
67
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: pressurized vs non pressurized boilers
« on: September 03, 2014, 01:07:16 PM »
The rust issues are my main concern and the reason I'd go pressurized in the first place, but do the claims of buying a pressurized unit, which are higher priced in most cases, stand up to that reason alone, they won't rust as fast or have as many issues. The logic behind it is sound, those units have to have a pressure rating and fall into a whole different classification of furnace, meaning they have to undergo far stricter guide lines to build in the first place.
That right there makes me wonder how those with the supposed certification can now sell pressurized boilers, from basically the same furnace they had before...............or did they get all the necessary paperwork and certification needed to legally sell anything....................hummmmmmmmmmmmm, I know, that's harsh to wonder how such upstanding individuals could do anything underhanded or illegal or what might fall into that grey area.
Well anyhow back on topic of legitimate business's who do make a pressurized boiler and have the certification behind it along with decades of sales and many thousands of units. Anyone want to venture a guess or have data to back up the life expectancy of a pressurized boiler verses a non pressurized one? I've listened to the sales people, along with those that sell lp gas pressurized boilers and they all claim the same thing no matter who's unit it is, pressurized translates into higher quality and longer life built with better quality materials ....................or the nuts and bolts of the question, is it true?
That right there makes me wonder how those with the supposed certification can now sell pressurized boilers, from basically the same furnace they had before...............or did they get all the necessary paperwork and certification needed to legally sell anything....................hummmmmmmmmmmmm, I know, that's harsh to wonder how such upstanding individuals could do anything underhanded or illegal or what might fall into that grey area.
Well anyhow back on topic of legitimate business's who do make a pressurized boiler and have the certification behind it along with decades of sales and many thousands of units. Anyone want to venture a guess or have data to back up the life expectancy of a pressurized boiler verses a non pressurized one? I've listened to the sales people, along with those that sell lp gas pressurized boilers and they all claim the same thing no matter who's unit it is, pressurized translates into higher quality and longer life built with better quality materials ....................or the nuts and bolts of the question, is it true?
68
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: pressurized vs non pressurized boilers
« on: September 03, 2014, 05:53:03 AM »
No I haven't been talking to any of that bunch, I've been talking with legitimate business's and products they sell and hopefully stand behind, as they say Ive made a mistake the first time around, I'm trying to not repeat it.
69
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / grates in an outdoor boiler
« on: September 03, 2014, 04:55:22 AM »
Do grates make a difference in an outdoor boiler, I've talked to several that have shaker grates and they really like them, most of those with grates have shakers, which I could see being a benefit for a few reasons, what are the opinions on here.
70
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / pressurized vs non pressurized boilers
« on: September 03, 2014, 04:42:41 AM »
I've been looking at a new OWB and the subject of pressurized vs non pressurized boilers has been a discussion, I've been told many things about each, first off, I understand the whole concept of pressurized boiler being a pressure vessel, which doesn't really bother me any, I've been around pressurized boilers all my life, all the houses I've lived in the last 25 years have been hot water heat with cast iron radiators.
My main question is this, how come the pressurized boilers I've been around most of my life, have had no rust out issues and were anywhere from new to over 30 years old, the older one's were fuel oil, and the newer one's were switched to LP gas and my wood doctor OWB has had rust issues in the first 5 years, is this a freak accident, poor quality steel, water issues, which is the same water as in my previous pressurized gas boilers or is there something to the idea of pressurized systems less oxidation issues. My gas boiler people are telling me one thing, and the OWB sales people are telling something else.
There are a couple pressurized OWB's on the market, I've talked to several who own each brand, and from what I can tell, the stainless steel construction has had issues with leaks.
My main question is this, how come the pressurized boilers I've been around most of my life, have had no rust out issues and were anywhere from new to over 30 years old, the older one's were fuel oil, and the newer one's were switched to LP gas and my wood doctor OWB has had rust issues in the first 5 years, is this a freak accident, poor quality steel, water issues, which is the same water as in my previous pressurized gas boilers or is there something to the idea of pressurized systems less oxidation issues. My gas boiler people are telling me one thing, and the OWB sales people are telling something else.
There are a couple pressurized OWB's on the market, I've talked to several who own each brand, and from what I can tell, the stainless steel construction has had issues with leaks.
71
Wood Doctor / extra large wood doctor blower motor specs
« on: September 02, 2014, 01:49:32 PM »
I have the extra large wood doctor boiler, in the past my blower motor went bad and my fix it shop sold me one that wasn't as powerful, thinking a lot slower speed, and now we've been having problems with getting enough draft.
Does anyone know what size of motor is supposed to be on the blower, I've cleaned the fan, checked inside the door to make sure its clean and free of debris and the motor that's currently on the furnace has been checked over and is said to be fine, but memory serves me, I'm thinking the old blower was running faster than the motor I had to take due to the only one anywhere to be found on a frigid cold winter day. My current motor spins at 2000 rpm, I was thinking the original spun at something closer to 3000 rpm.
Can anyone help me out with this, seems the company is no more and I can't find anyone who knows anything about them or has or can get parts for them anymore.
I could complain about the company, but it seems that's pretty well covered and all I can say is here is another ticked off customer of wood doctor.
Does anyone know what size of motor is supposed to be on the blower, I've cleaned the fan, checked inside the door to make sure its clean and free of debris and the motor that's currently on the furnace has been checked over and is said to be fine, but memory serves me, I'm thinking the old blower was running faster than the motor I had to take due to the only one anywhere to be found on a frigid cold winter day. My current motor spins at 2000 rpm, I was thinking the original spun at something closer to 3000 rpm.
Can anyone help me out with this, seems the company is no more and I can't find anyone who knows anything about them or has or can get parts for them anymore.
I could complain about the company, but it seems that's pretty well covered and all I can say is here is another ticked off customer of wood doctor.