Print

[sergeant721]

anyone have to seal up the rear access plate to the hot water coil yet WHAT A PAIN IN THE A// 

[tree climber]

it was a pain in the butt. hope your a skinny guy

[tpm]

I used a cordless drill and took the metal roof off made it a lot easier and I was able to get it completely sealed.

[sergeant721]

I had to remove all the trim and open up the sides of the roof and take the ridge off what a mess all my
insulation was wet and have to replace it, dam you SHAVER 

[sergeant721]

my top lid of the water tank is not flat its got a bow in it what did you use to seal it

[tree climber]

used hi temp silicone from auto parts store and caulk gun

[lugnut]

I had to remove all the trim and open up the sides of the roof and take the ridge off what a mess all my
insulation was wet and have to replace it, dam you SHAVER 

Sergeant,

Actually I'm going to go to bat for Shaver on this one...and believe me, it's NOT often I do this, but the reason for the damp insulation was NOT Shaver's fault, it was your "friend's" fault for not including the owner's manual with that furnace or, your fault for not calling/emailing the company for an owner's manual.   

Please understand Sergeant...I'm NOT bad mouthing you, but when ever I purchase anything any more and there is no owner's manual or any kind of info, I email the company and get any and all info I can...there is simply no excuse any more these days because of the internet.

Lugnut

[lugnut]

my top lid of the water tank is not flat its got a bow in it what did you use to seal it

I found after trial and error...the BEST way to get to the top plate was to remove the rear roof ridge and then the rear face panels to gain access to the top plate.  Be mindful of the screws as well.:-) 

Depending on how bad the bow is...try to straighten it out or just as well...take measurements and have a new piece of steel cut.  You do NOT want to bolt that plate in.  I thought about having mine welded shut, but if for whatever reason I needed to get in there...I'd be screwed.  You do not need to make more work for your self...just get that plate to fit flush and silicone the snot out of it.

Mine had two angle legs welded to it on either end...to this day I have no clue why...other than the fact that the bozo who fabricated this thing wanted  to make the new owner wonder WTF?  Anyway, I cut the legs off and still found because the monkey could not make four corners square...the plate could NOT go in with the handle up....but it would fit fine with the handle facing IN towards the water...so that's what I did.  Then I applied a couple layers of silicone to it and all has been well.....

Lugnut

[sergeant721]

Lugnut,

   You are right, I got it sealed up just waiting for it to dry over night befor I add the water Im putting R38 should
I use unfaced insolation 

[lugnut]

Sergeant,

If you can find the type of insulation shaver originally uses, I'd go with that.  I believe it is foil faced, but I really don't see why you couldn't just do unfaced insulation.  If you did NOT toss out the other insulation...the stuff that got damp...set it aside in your garage and let it dry out real good and you can reuse it.  I have a heated shop and that's where I put mine for a few days.

Another thing you might want to seriously consider is wrapping ALL the exposed piping in the rear of the furnace with  foam pipe insulation and fasten it tightly to the pex with plastic tie downs.

I insulated the rear door on mine last week and let me tell you that WAS a pain and even more so when one is standing ankle deep in mud....but it's done now and I don't have to worry about that any more.

One other place to insulate Sergeant...the firebox door.  Shove some insulation in there and the door will be cool to the touch.

Lugnmut