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Messages - yoda

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31
General Discussion / Re: Getting to know one another
« on: March 22, 2009, 12:35:05 PM »
1. First name? Roy
2. Age? 39
3. What do you/did you do for a living? Auto mechanic at a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Dealership
4. Interests/hobbies? Camping, Hunting, woodworking
5. What brand/year truck do you drive? 99 Ram, (plow truck/work truck/woods truck), 03 Ram Diesel (camper puller)
6. What brand of chainsaw do you own?Husky 359
7. Married/kids? Married 14 years, 4 kids, 4,6,8,11,  All good wood cuttin helpers :)

32
 Thanks, thats what I was hoping you would say.

33
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Birch, to split or not to split
« on: March 09, 2009, 09:02:22 AM »
 I just bought 12 cord of birch in 100" logs, most of it is 6" diameter and I wasn't planning on splitting most of it. This past weekend I had alot of family help and we got it all cut and stacked in 25" lenghts. The majority we did not split.

 I am planning on burning it next winter.  I was told by someone that birch must all be split or it will rot before it dries, is this true?  I have also been told birch only keeps for 2 years before it starts to rot,( wich is actually ok with me as I plan on burning it within 2 years)

 I do have some birch left over from last sept. it seems to be fairly dry and not rotting yet(was not split)
 
 Will this unsplit birch be good to go next winter?? ???

34
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Should I buy a Woodmaster???
« on: March 09, 2009, 08:01:35 AM »
Yea i will probably just go with pvc it sounds like the best idea. Has anyone ever done heated floors or driveways? I was thinking of doing that in the future after i buy the OWB.
I also ran mine in 4" pvc.  My advice would be to dig trench with a backhoe so you have room to work down in the trench, I used a trencher and I can tell you it was a real PITA.  Unless you have a straight run with no bends, trying to make a bend and getting everything to fit down in a 4-5 inch wide trench is NOT easy. Also my settup is on a side hill so at the lowest point in the trench, I ran a T and ran a drain down the hill and daylighted the end so if I do get any water inside the pipe I can drain it out. All it takes is 1 glue joint that isn't perfect and you will get some water inside the pipe, with frost moving the pipe around I think it may be inevidable.

35
Fire Wood / Re: the Holy Grail
« on: February 28, 2009, 01:49:34 PM »
 Maybe he will come and help you cut it up and stack it too, maybe even bring the beer ;D

36
Natures Comfort / Re: helping water mix better
« on: February 26, 2009, 09:02:45 AM »
 My Shaver 165 does the same thing, sometimes I can hear water starting to boil at the front of the stove, just above the door.  The water at the back is only 160. I think this summer I am going to run a return line on the top outside of the water jacket, drill a hole and run the return pipe to dump in the front of the stove.

37
Fire Wood / Re: wood drying time
« on: February 09, 2009, 08:02:19 AM »
Yoda,are you burning the wood? If so how is it doing,and are you getting good burn times. I was in the same boat,I got a late start with firewood,i dropped trees in june,let then set,cut/split in august,and it just wasnt dry enough to brun this winter.I own over 20 acres,so i went out and cut up all the blown down locust and oak,what a difference! zero smoke,and long burn times.Thisstuffs been down 2-4 yrs,and wasnt on the ground.

  I have been burning the wood I bought, I think it is still too green, but we got hit early with alot of snow and it kind of put an end to my plan to cut and burn the dead standing wood on my property as I needed it.When it's been really cold I only get about 6 hours before I need to reload it. In the mornings sometimes my water temp is down to 120 and I have to turn on my propane furnace for an hour or so to let the boiler catch up.
  This last week it has been in the upper 20s during the day teens at night, stove working much better 10-12 hour burn times.

 Im really hoping next year with dryer wood and some improvements I'm planning on doing to the stove It will work much better

38
General Discussion / Re: weather break
« on: February 07, 2009, 05:05:27 PM »
 Same here Willie,I've been goin through wood like crazy for all of Dec and Jan. I guess thats kind of a good thing as this is my first year of burning wood, it should give me a worse case scenario for wood useage. What part if the country are you from?

39
Plumbing / Re: larger pump
« on: February 02, 2009, 08:18:30 AM »
 Here is the link to a guy on ebay who has a store on ebay, I bought a BG pl36 from him, I paid $169 last summer I don't know if that was a good price or not. I also bought a heat exchanger from him and had good luck. Oh I see the price has gone up


http://cgi.ebay.com/OUTDOOR-WOOD-FURNACE-BELL-AND-GOSSETT-CIRCULATING-PUMP_W0QQitemZ390022601602QQihZ026QQcategoryZ20598QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

40
Shaver Furnace / Re: 2nd cold snap
« on: February 01, 2009, 12:12:25 PM »
  Grandgracing, your post has got me to thinking, the reason your stove boils with the fan flap open all the way is it's getting natural draft with the blower off.(I'm sure your already aware of this, but it gives me an idea) I'm trying to figure out a way to hook up 2 thermostats, say for example, 1 thermostat runs a flap to allow natural draft,  closes at 170 with maybe a adjustable screw so the fire always gets a small amount of air.  The 2nd thermostat would control the draft fan,  off at  150.  It seems to me you will use less wood with a natural draft (instead of blowing half the heat up the chimney)  But if the water temp continues to drop the fan will kick in.
  I'm just trying to think how to accomplish this without overcomplicating it, also it would be nice to be able to adjust airflow amount for the fan and for the natural draft, independent of each other.

  Fletchers setup could work if 1 thermostat controlled the flap he made, a second stat to control the fan.  1st stat opens flap all the time unless temp gets over 170, then shuts. 2nd stat shuts fan off at150? The only problem is this wouldn't allow you to adjust airflow independent of each other.

 Also adding chimney length may help natural draft.

 Maybe Fletcher has some thoughts on this idea?

  Did you follow that? Sometimes I ramble a little

41
Shaver Furnace / Re: 2nd cold snap
« on: February 01, 2009, 10:25:31 AM »
 I have my fan door open a little less than half way, The way it is when it's really cold out(below zero) the fan runs most of the time and if I open it further it just seems to go through even more wood.  I'm hoping insulating it better will fix that. Are you still happy with your stove since you isulated it better?  What kind of burn times do you get when it's below zero?

42
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Loading Gear
« on: January 30, 2009, 05:55:45 PM »
My wife and I are with Yoda, but the guys at work pick on me a little.   ;)
I've singed my eyebrows a few times, I gotta a lotta guff about that at work ;D

43
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Loading Gear
« on: January 30, 2009, 02:45:10 PM »
 We both kind of like the smell, reminds us of camping :)  I bought 500 lbs of coal to try, thats a different story, very stinky smoke

44
Shaver Furnace / Re: 2nd cold snap
« on: January 28, 2009, 11:35:32 AM »
buid a shed over your stove, add pipe to the stack and make it big enough to keep your wood out of the weather as well If you all are in the sticks and have or have seen a steel clad driveshed (just like what your stove is) you willhave seen how  when the hard wind blows a certain way. snow gets through the steel to the inside of the building. This IS happening to your stove as well..wetting your insulation making it (until it drys) useless as an insulating mass..secondly if your stove is the type that is insulated around your water jacket the water that gets through will run to the bottom of your stove where it lays in the insulation and causes rust to begin, bringing you much more trouble later on down the road

and if you build a little shed around it..you will be out of the elements when you have to load it in a stormy windy night

keep your stove, your wood and yourself dry, you will all last longer
  I wish I could, It wouldn't really work where I put the stove,  does anyone else have the problem of losing water temp right after putting wood in the stove?  this morning I got up and was actually shocked to find my water temp at 160 (draft fan shuts off at aprox 165) draft fan was running, nice bed of coals, filled the stove with wood, 30 min later my water temp was down to 152. (draft fan still running)  I've noticed this before, that I ussually lose about 10 degrees before I start to gain temp again. It wasn't really a problem this morning, but some really cold mornings when I'm down at about 125 to start with, I need to turn on my propane for an hour or so or the furnace struggles all day to get back up to temp. Once I drop below 120 the house loses temp. Is this normal , to lose that much when I add wood? The wood isn't very dry.

45
Shaver Furnace / Re: 2nd cold snap
« on: January 24, 2009, 03:32:28 PM »
 Fletcher I've been reading posts on the arborist site including yours, your right theres alot of info there as well, at least we have some time before spring to ponder  our insulating options. I like to read others ideas and about modifications, hopefully will learn from other peoples mistakes and successes

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