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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Why to stay clear of "Watts" brand fittings
« on: October 04, 2015, 07:40:52 AM »
Last year I helped my neighbor install his OWB system, and he chose to use Watts quick connectors, which is what was recommended by Menards for pex fittings. He deliberated for a while about it because they are so expensive per fitting. But we were very happy with how easy and fast all his hookups went rather it was from pex to pex, or pex to copper.
I was so impressed that I decided that I was going to use them to install my system last Dec. I spent roughly $700 on them. They worked great all heating season. We decided to shut down our stoves the same day, and when the water temps came down, every single fitting in our entire systems began leaking (gushing really). Now I called Menards, and they told me that I was running too hot of water through them, because I run mine at 200°F, but my neighbor only runs at 175°F and his did the same thing so...? When he called Menards, they told him that they would not recommend using them at all for any boiler system. Funny thing though, when you go into Menards, they have a nice display demo of a BOILER SYSTEM, that 100% uses the "Watts" brand quick connector fittings.lol
I tried calling the customer service line for Watts, and have never gotten through to a human being. So I emailed them when this originally came about, and they never responded.
I just emailed them again today as a follow up, and let them know, that I would be sharing my experience with anyone that would listen.
Well... Its cold in Michigan, and I'm going to be replacing fittings all day with normal crimp style ones.
I was so impressed that I decided that I was going to use them to install my system last Dec. I spent roughly $700 on them. They worked great all heating season. We decided to shut down our stoves the same day, and when the water temps came down, every single fitting in our entire systems began leaking (gushing really). Now I called Menards, and they told me that I was running too hot of water through them, because I run mine at 200°F, but my neighbor only runs at 175°F and his did the same thing so...? When he called Menards, they told him that they would not recommend using them at all for any boiler system. Funny thing though, when you go into Menards, they have a nice display demo of a BOILER SYSTEM, that 100% uses the "Watts" brand quick connector fittings.lol
I tried calling the customer service line for Watts, and have never gotten through to a human being. So I emailed them when this originally came about, and they never responded.
I just emailed them again today as a follow up, and let them know, that I would be sharing my experience with anyone that would listen.
Well... Its cold in Michigan, and I'm going to be replacing fittings all day with normal crimp style ones.
2
Site Suggestions / Site is painfully sssslllloooowwwwwww
« on: March 17, 2015, 01:15:19 PM »
This is the only site on the internet that loads so slow, that its just not worth my time to frequent anymore. I've tried everything from IE8, Firefox running adblock, and ghostry, opera, etc. Nothing makes it perform rather via laptop, desktop, or my mobile devices.
It took the better part of 20min. to even get this "new topic" screen to open.
I'm running fine everywhere else on the web, @ anywhere from 15mb to 35mb per sec.
It took the better part of 20min. to even get this "new topic" screen to open.
I'm running fine everywhere else on the web, @ anywhere from 15mb to 35mb per sec.
4
Plumbing / Sidearm Install
« on: December 31, 2014, 07:56:58 PM »
I have done a lot of searching on this forum for my answer, but the search bar on here is not very friendly.
I am installing a outdoor wood boiler. My current system is a propane fired boiler, running baseboards throughout the house.
I will be installing a sidearm to my existing electric 40 gallon hot water heater.
My question is this: I have read, and been told by two different dealers two contradicting methods to install the sidearm. Both say to install the DW on the bottom side to the drain via a tee, but one says to hook the top side DW to the outgoing hot water line from the top of the tank via a tee, and one says to hook it up to the cold side going into the top of the tank via a tee. Which method is correct?
I can't install it via a tee to the relief valve location because it is not located on top of the hot water tank, but out the side near the top???
Is the top diagram correct or is the bottom one correct?
I am installing a outdoor wood boiler. My current system is a propane fired boiler, running baseboards throughout the house.
I will be installing a sidearm to my existing electric 40 gallon hot water heater.
My question is this: I have read, and been told by two different dealers two contradicting methods to install the sidearm. Both say to install the DW on the bottom side to the drain via a tee, but one says to hook the top side DW to the outgoing hot water line from the top of the tank via a tee, and one says to hook it up to the cold side going into the top of the tank via a tee. Which method is correct?
I can't install it via a tee to the relief valve location because it is not located on top of the hot water tank, but out the side near the top???
Is the top diagram correct or is the bottom one correct?
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