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Author Topic: fan damper  (Read 12394 times)

hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #15 on: January 13, 2018, 08:33:19 AM »

More water capacity isn't going to change the btu needs of your house. They remain the same depending on outside temps. Now if you were going to utiliZe 500-1000+ gallons and batch burn and only use the the stove to heat up that water once per day than you might be able to squeeze some effieincy out of the stove since there would be no idling. Other than that there's no gains in wood use Efficiency.
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Elguano

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2018, 06:08:55 PM »

Thanks for all the info ;) appreciate the help

Just as a for my info, live in Ontario Canada, so cold -30C seem to happen often this year. Do you think thoses setting are optimals or i could play with?

On 180F
Off 192F
Damper fully on

Seem to have about a 5F difference from the aquastat and thermometer wrapped analog with thermopaste wrapped around the outlet pipe.

Omce inside the house , am loosing about 5F over 120ft (not bad considering the pipe is only burried 18”) and there about a 10F from running thru the house heat exchanger and my sidearm.

Thx

Every thing else is sti
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2018, 07:00:20 PM »

Let’s clarify. You think you are losing 5 degrees between the boiler and the house? Can you confirm thst? If so your underground lines may have failed. That’s a lot over 120 feet. Do you have any snow melt?
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Elguano

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2018, 06:08:44 AM »

No snow melt, 5F over 120feet , I tough this was actually pretty damn good ;(Don't forget that my pipe is only burried 18" could go deeper we are directly on the rocks
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wreckit87

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2018, 07:20:23 AM »

5 degrees in 120 feet is a lot. What type of underground do you have? 1/2-1 degree per 100ft is pretty standard for good line at 6-7 GPM. If your flow rate is low may have some bearing on the higher drop, but if my math is correct, you're losing 36,000 BTU per hour in the ground if you're flowing 7.2 GPM. That's every hour of every day.

3.6 gallons in 1" pex over 120 ft, 7.2 for supply and return combined.

7.2 GPM means 1 full exchange per minute

7.2 gallons at 8.33 lbs per gallon makes almost 60 LBS of water per minute

60 LBS at 5 degrees each way is 600 BTU per minute lost

600BTU/min for 60 minutes is 36,000

Is that correct Honda?

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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2018, 07:24:31 AM »

The pipe could be buried 18 feet, should make little to no difference in temp loss. How are you measuring this 5 degree loss. I would expect to see snow melt with a 5 degree loss at that length of run. You have to remember if you lose 5 degrees to the house and 5 degrees back then you are losing 10 degrees just moving the water. If you are moving 8 gpm that means that every minute 8 gallons are dropping 10 degrees and every 10 minutes your are dropping 80 gallons 10 degrees and every 20 mins you are dropping 160 gallons 10 degrees. It adds up fast!
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #21 on: January 21, 2018, 07:36:58 AM »

Yes Darin. I did it a different way but came out with the same.

1 gallon of water holds 8.3 btu per degree raised. So if you are
Flowing 7.2gpm x 8.3 btu = 597.6 btu * 60 min = 35856 btu per hour.


You would see an enormous wood use at this temp loss.
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Mr. Maple

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #22 on: January 21, 2018, 04:54:42 PM »

More water capacity isn't going to change the btu needs of your house. They remain the same depending on outside temps. Now if you were going to utiliZe 500-1000+ gallons and batch burn and only use the the stove to heat up that water once per day than you might be able to squeeze some effieincy out of the stove since there would be no idling. Other than that there's no gains in wood use Efficiency.
   I would have to respectfully disagree about water capacity as far as burn times for the furnace,btus going to the house. Not many have benn able to compare furnaces side by side,but being on my third outdoor furnace I think I can put some input into this.
  Our first furnace was an Empyre 450, water capacity 300 gallons,rated for 8000 square feet. My Father's house is a HUGE brick farmhouse,ours is smaller but older,needing improvements to insulation,windows etc as money and time permit. Have never calculated square footage,just went by what our Empyre dealer recommended.The furnace worked very good,just really liked it's wood.
Two wheelbarrow loads of wood about 10:00 at night to carry it through until 6:00 in the morning,so I was looking for a furnace that would last longer and use less wood.
 Next was a BL 4044, water capacity 160 gallons,rated for 12000 square feet( has to be a typo,because there is no way it could handle it)!!! THREE wheelbarrow loads at 10:00 at night,stone cold and out before 6:00 in the morning,had to be out to feed it again by 5:00
Now to the present and best furnace,Heatmaster MF 20000E,500? Gallons I believe ,rated for 20000 square feet. Is it oversized? probably,but TWO wheelbarrow loads in at 8:00 at night easily does until 9:00 or 10:00 the next morning,when it was extremely cold,-36 F,it cut down to 10 hours between loads.
  To recap,SAME heating requirements- furnace 1-300 gallons,TWO wheelbarrow loads for an 8 hour burn in cold but not extreme conditions,furnace 2-160 gallons,THREE wheelbarrow loads for a 6-7 hour burn,and furnace 3-500 gallons,TWO wheelbarrow loads for a 12-14 hour burn.
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wreckit87

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #23 on: January 21, 2018, 05:13:37 PM »

More water capacity isn't going to change the btu needs of your house. They remain the same depending on outside temps. Now if you were going to utiliZe 500-1000+ gallons and batch burn and only use the the stove to heat up that water once per day than you might be able to squeeze some effieincy out of the stove since there would be no idling. Other than that there's no gains in wood use Efficiency.
   I would have to respectfully disagree about water capacity as far as burn times for the furnace,btus going to the house. Not many have benn able to compare furnaces side by side,but being on my third outdoor furnace I think I can put some input into this.
  Our first furnace was an Empyre 450, water capacity 300 gallons,rated for 8000 square feet. My Father's house is a HUGE brick farmhouse,ours is smaller but older,needing improvements to insulation,windows etc as money and time permit. Have never calculated square footage,just went by what our Empyre dealer recommended.The furnace worked very good,just really liked it's wood.
Two wheelbarrow loads of wood about 10:00 at night to carry it through until 6:00 in the morning,so I was looking for a furnace that would last longer and use less wood.
 Next was a BL 4044, water capacity 160 gallons,rated for 12000 square feet( has to be a typo,because there is no way it could handle it)!!! THREE wheelbarrow loads at 10:00 at night,stone cold and out before 6:00 in the morning,had to be out to feed it again by 5:00
Now to the present and best furnace,Heatmaster MF 20000E,500? Gallons I believe ,rated for 20000 square feet. Is it oversized? probably,but TWO wheelbarrow loads in at 8:00 at night easily does until 9:00 or 10:00 the next morning,when it was extremely cold,-36 F,it cut down to 10 hours between loads.
  To recap,SAME heating requirements- furnace 1-300 gallons,TWO wheelbarrow loads for an 8 hour burn in cold but not extreme conditions,furnace 2-160 gallons,THREE wheelbarrow loads for a 6-7 hour burn,and furnace 3-500 gallons,TWO wheelbarrow loads for a 12-14 hour burn.

Those are due to the furnace, not the water capacity. If you were to add 500 gallons of storage to any of those 3 stoves, they wouldn't take any less wood. Just doesn't work that way. BTU requirements of the buildings remain the same
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #24 on: January 21, 2018, 05:18:48 PM »

What you are expierecing is the efficiency of the stove. Stove could have 100 gallons or 1000 gallons. It won't change the effieincy of the boiler at capturing the heat and transferring it into the water.
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Elguano

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #25 on: January 21, 2018, 06:16:59 PM »

What kind of termostat are you guys using to see what the water temp? I have those wrap around thermometer, they might not be the most accurate one...
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wreckit87

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #26 on: January 21, 2018, 06:34:37 PM »

What kind of termostat are you guys using to see what the water temp? I have those wrap around thermometer, they might not be the most accurate one...

I try to put immersion/well type thermometers in everything, but a simple infrared gun works pretty well if you have access to one. A single wrap of black electrical tape around the pipe, and then physically hold the gun against that tape for a second. They don't measure exact water temp, but will get very close in measuring the difference between say, the supply at the boiler and the supply entering the house
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #27 on: January 21, 2018, 06:56:44 PM »

Those temp gauges that wrap around the pipe I found to be wildly inaccurate.
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shepherd boy

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #28 on: January 21, 2018, 07:17:05 PM »

What you are expierecing is the efficiency of the stove. Stove could have 100 gallons or 1000 gallons. It won't change the effieincy of the boiler at capturing the heat and transferring it into the water.

  One thing may be happening is better heat transfer due to large amount of steel to transfer heat to the water jacket in the large stove. 
  Those sq. ft. ratings are a joke. And untested BTU ratings.
  My first stove was a T450 Taylor hooked to a greenhouse. Loaded every 3hrs. Put in another stove held about 80 gals. less and would run all night.
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Elguano

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Re: fan damper
« Reply #29 on: January 23, 2018, 07:06:05 AM »

What kind of diffencial you guys are using?
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