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Messages - ckbetz

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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Still in the research process
« on: January 10, 2010, 05:43:30 AM »
Jbuck, from my experience if you have a better location for dropping off and loading wood to your furnace and it happens to be a little farther from your house, pay the extra and put it there.   I put mine close to the house to save on pex, trenching, electrical/gas lines, etc.  It's close enough that I can see my aquastat, I thought that would be very handy, and it is.  But it's not as easy to get wood to as I'd like.  I'm thinking of moving it for easier access this summer and also so I can install a newer, more efficient pex system. 

2
I think my OWB paid for itself in about 3 years.  Watch out though the EPA is getting harder on these things now.  They have a list of preferred devices that meet their guidelines now...

http://www.epa.gov/air/burnwise/woodboilers.html

3
Central Boiler / Re: New to the board
« on: December 12, 2009, 05:04:17 AM »
I don't think I use more wood when it's windy but I have a pretty high heat demand.  I think it probably helps me get my temps up quicker when the damper opens.  Oh I hate filling that thing when it's windy though.

4
Central Boiler / Re: scratchin woodys belly
« on: December 05, 2009, 05:57:32 AM »
The more you stir your ashes the less you'll have to remove.  There is a lot of unburned gases and particles hidden down under your ash bed in the Central Boilers.  I burn a lot of wood and have yet to remove any ashes yet this year (Probably today will take a few out). 

5
Fire Wood / Re: keeping it in the round
« on: November 06, 2009, 07:59:33 PM »
Realize when you're talking about how quickly wood burns or how long it lasts what you really want to focus on is how much heat demand you need for your load and how much you have on hand.  The more efficiently your wood burns the more btus you get out of it.  Burning well seasoned wood will produce a hotter fire, and one where you don't have to cook the moisture out of the wood before getting a complete burn.  If splitting the wood makes it not last as long it could be that you aren't putting the same amount of "weight" into your burner.  This would make it seem like you're burning it up quicker.  One big unsplit log may weigh more than several small ones split, and your btu's come from the amount of weight of wood you have, not the "volume" or space the wood takes up.  That said, split wood may have more surface area and might allow more air to mix with the gases around the wood to burn hotter.  Anyway, I really think it's the lesser amount of weight that would make split wood seem to burn quicker than whole round pieces. 

6
Central Boiler / Re: 5036 cenral boiler
« on: November 05, 2009, 07:10:47 PM »
Hey woody, welcome.  There are a lot of posts on the site about factors in heating different size buildings.  Search around a bit and you'll find quite a bit of reading.  Bruey is right, there are a lot of factors that any different manufacturer has to deal with, and it's sometimes the dealer that makes the sale on knowing what factors are important.  I've said before that all OWB companies tend to give you the most ideal specs when they tell you how many btu's their unit is capable of putting out.  I have a Central Boiler 5648 heating a very old home that is somewhere close to 5000 sq ft. with 11 ft. ceilings on the bottom floor and 10 ft. on the second floor.  Until this year I filled my unit in the coldest weather 3 times a day full.  I'm hoping this year things will be different since I added insulation and siding, as well as 6 more 39"x104" windows.  So far my unit seems to be using a lot less wood but it's hard to make a comparison unless you really look at historical data.  For me I'm just glad I'm not paying the gas bill to heat this bohemoth. 

7
Hey Jerry,

Welcome to the forum.  I have a Central Boiler that shuts down similarly to a Hardy I would say.  CB recommends that you don't set your water temp below 165 in order for the boiler steel to keep from coollng too much and then heating way up from the fire.  Since I don't have a forced induction fan this also helps get the fire burning a little quicker since the heat creates a bit more draft.  I'm sure they've done some tests on it, Central Boiler seems to pride themselves on the amount of testing they have done.  I also know that a lot of thermal expansion (and contraction) can be very hard on steel, especially stainless.  That said, I tend to run mine at a little lower temp. because I have the large surface area radiators so I simply don't need a high heat like baseboard.  When the temperature outside gets down to where the highs during the day are in the 20's then I'll bump mine up to 185 or so.  Hope that gives you something to chew on...good luck.

8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: some people are crazy
« on: October 16, 2009, 02:02:56 PM »
a little unknown fact to go along with the burning of wood.  What happens to wood as it rots out in the woods?  It also goes to carbon just like burning it.  So don't let anyone tell you about producing excess carbon when most environmentalists really don't know any of the chemistry behind what they are talking about...

9
Electronics / Re: Pumps not running
« on: October 14, 2009, 03:08:20 PM »
I can tell you one bonehead move NOT to make...from experience.  I put the replacement cartridge on the inside of the flange before I hooked it into the line, then opened the valve.  Water rushed through the pump, and it only takes a little moisture to fry one.  So, I fried one...make certain there's no moisture inside the windings or it's fried.

10
Fire Wood / Re: Is your woodshed filled??
« on: October 12, 2009, 05:02:05 AM »
If it's free and easy to get I'd burn it.  Dried oak should give you a hot, efficient burn.  The only issue you'd have is that it may burn a little faster since they pieces are small, but it will burn better than one large piece the same weight. 

11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Warmer heat? or all in my head?
« on: October 04, 2009, 07:21:11 PM »
It could be possible that your exchanger is radiating when your furnace is not calling for heat.  If this becomes a problem you could install a zone valve to keep  the water out of the exchanger when your thermostat is not calling for heat.  Forced air heat tends to be pretty dry, which doesn't feel as warm.  I have often wondered that the heat running through the exchanger may be a little more humid which could make your house feel a little warmer also.

12
I have a Central Boiler and I'd have to agree that each stove are pretty high quality.  If you search there are numerous posts about each on the site so you can do a little research about what people like or don't like about each one.

13
I would love to see some big snows this year so I can get the toys out and play, but those high 38, low 22 days kill me for wood consumption.  I just have too much volume.  So I never want it to come..hahaha

14
Electronics / Re: Pumps not running
« on: September 29, 2009, 03:54:02 AM »
Put your hand on the circulator and see if it's humming or anything.  With an open air system you can get tiny particles that settle out because of the rust inhibitors in your system.  I've had to take my large taco circulators apart and "jump start" them more than once.  If they are in fact tacos you can just loosen the four small bolts and remove the cartridge to make sure everything is ok.

15
Hardy / Re: modular home
« on: September 28, 2009, 06:49:15 PM »
Logwagon, check out this site.  It's not a Hardy but the hook up should be very similar to what you may have. 

http://www.centralboiler.com/otherExamples.html

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