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[dwneast77]

Wow, it looks like some P&M gasser owners are finally owning up to the high frequency cleaning that is required on the 20 horizontal exchanger tubes of their 150 year old proven technology. It's inevitable that they will require regular cleaning with that design. It's a natural "catch area". Horses are also 150 year old proven technology, they require a lot of maintenance and clean up to. Much more that todays modern motor vehicle technology. This is why I preferred the horizontal design CB uses.

"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than speak and remove all doubt".

Hmmm,  I was gonna throw in my $0.02 worth.  I think I'll forgo it tonight.   

[boilerman]

OK guys, so my mind thinks one thing and my fingers type another. Seems to get worse with age   !:bash:
As you know, I meant to say the CB "vertical" exchanger design allow the ash to naturally drop down into the reaction chamber for easy shovel removal.
I can usually go a month between reaction chamber cleanouts.
Glad I caused some of you some amusement though. 

[slimjim]

Simple solution to your question about when to clean heat exchanger tubes and this will also silence the retoric from those dealers that promote their single pass (easy to clean) heat exchangers. open the back doors on the 250 and right above the cleanout door there is a flat area in the exhaust just before it transitions to insulated smokepipe, you can install a simple candy thermometer right there by drilling a hole and iserting it into the stack. on a clean boiler with water temps of 185 degrees the stack temp should be between 260 and 280 with the blower running, if the stack temp goes over 320 clean the tubes, lets see your easy to clean single pass heat exchanger do that. I would much prefer to clean the tubes than cut more wood and watch it go up the chimney

[martyinmi]

slimjim,

Very good replies!

Glad we have a P&M problem solver on this site now.

You will surely be a lot of help, especially for the newer boiler operators here.

Welcome!

[Homerglide]

I do agree its not bad if your on a weekly schedule, was really pi***d yesterday to find after only 5 days burning the airbox was stuffed with creosote and the horizontal tubes were HALF plugged. My wood is not unreasonable either ranging from 22 to 27 percent. They run ALOT better when its cold and overnite lows arent 35.

Today is another day

When burning overly moist wood, or when water return temps are too low; THERE WILL BE CREOSOTE IN THE FIREBOX.....

In my experience with gasification boilers: It is critical to have water return temps at 140 degrees minimum and wood moisture content below 20%. If not, the wood fired boiler becomes a high maintenance appliance.

My experience is with an insulated shed as the boiler room and includes 1,000 gallons of storage. With a lower than 20% moisture content (I recommend 16 to 20 percent) and return water temps at the minimum of 140 degrees, cleaning is a minor issue and easily accomplished.

These two critical elements can be met by planning two years in advance with your firewood chores and by installing a thermic valve for boiler return temperature control.

There is a forum at hearth dot com called the boiler room where there are members with years of experience in these matters. Gasification wood boilers are different than a typical OWB and require different burn methods. Getting to know the appliance you have is instrumental in achieving maximum efficiency. Using a gasifier can cut your wood consumption by as much as 45% depending on system variables and proper seasoning of the fuel.