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For Sale / Heatmaster 10000e for sale
« on: February 12, 2017, 04:43:58 PM »
I have a 3 year old SS Heatmaster 10Ke for sale, paid close to $13K for it I need $10K for it. it is an awesome wood burner used if for the last 2 winters but barely at all this winter . Stove stays at 130F even when no fire is lit, I plumbed in a gas hot water tank and added it into the loop
We have availability to natural gas and are now installing heating equipment with NG,
it has all correct treatment chemicals and the official paperwork from the MFG. certified tester
I live in Southeast Ohio 45786 you must pick up stove, I can get equip. to load it
do not use this message board to respond as I probably will never be back to check it
contact me brians206@gmail.com for any questions
We have availability to natural gas and are now installing heating equipment with NG,
it has all correct treatment chemicals and the official paperwork from the MFG. certified tester
I live in Southeast Ohio 45786 you must pick up stove, I can get equip. to load it
do not use this message board to respond as I probably will never be back to check it
contact me brians206@gmail.com for any questions
2
Shaver Furnace / modifications to a shaver 290
« on: February 10, 2014, 07:10:26 PM »
Hello forum users:
I am 3 years into the use of a shaver 290. I am heating 5500+ sqft. and have 2 40 gal hot water tanks. I have made several mods to the stove to eliminate issues.
1st. I was adding 5 gal of make up per day diluting my chemicals. > replaced the aquastat with a Ranco and created a thermal well to put the new probe into, hoping this would shut the blower off before the stove started to boil and blow steam. old stat was set at 140 and boiling was happening up front.
2nd. I removed the top and used several tubes of high temp silicone around the hot water coil access hole to stop steaming off issues and soaking the top of my stove and wetting the insulation.
3rd. I installed a return line to the front of the stove so the cold water was returned to the front where the boiling was taking place and hot water was drawn from the rear, also i installd a 1/2 pipe 90 on the overflow with a 4 inch nipple on a slight elevation in a attempt to condense steam and drip it back into the stove. steaming off is now fixed. and it will go weeks with only a cup of make up befor it drips out
I have added new insulation on top and under the stove as the bottom is left bare.
4th. the door gasket silicone was replaced several times befor the final mod was made. we (stewie3500 and I) ground off the 1/4in bar stock that was tacked every 4 inches and relpaced it with 1in strap that is welded solid all the way around, this created a channel so we could install 3/4in rope gasket glued in with permatex gold high heat adhesive gasket maker. we also removed the bottom bolt of the hinge and welded the hole closed, square the door up and redrilled the new hole. now the door aligns with the stove and fits square.
I am 3 years into the use of a shaver 290. I am heating 5500+ sqft. and have 2 40 gal hot water tanks. I have made several mods to the stove to eliminate issues.
1st. I was adding 5 gal of make up per day diluting my chemicals. > replaced the aquastat with a Ranco and created a thermal well to put the new probe into, hoping this would shut the blower off before the stove started to boil and blow steam. old stat was set at 140 and boiling was happening up front.
2nd. I removed the top and used several tubes of high temp silicone around the hot water coil access hole to stop steaming off issues and soaking the top of my stove and wetting the insulation.
3rd. I installed a return line to the front of the stove so the cold water was returned to the front where the boiling was taking place and hot water was drawn from the rear, also i installd a 1/2 pipe 90 on the overflow with a 4 inch nipple on a slight elevation in a attempt to condense steam and drip it back into the stove. steaming off is now fixed. and it will go weeks with only a cup of make up befor it drips out
I have added new insulation on top and under the stove as the bottom is left bare.
4th. the door gasket silicone was replaced several times befor the final mod was made. we (stewie3500 and I) ground off the 1/4in bar stock that was tacked every 4 inches and relpaced it with 1in strap that is welded solid all the way around, this created a channel so we could install 3/4in rope gasket glued in with permatex gold high heat adhesive gasket maker. we also removed the bottom bolt of the hinge and welded the hole closed, square the door up and redrilled the new hole. now the door aligns with the stove and fits square.
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