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16
Plumbing / Which pump (that I already have)
« on: November 16, 2015, 07:50:18 PM »
New house, new setup, lots of my old installed parts reused. I have a Grundfos 26-99 (3 speed) or a Taco 007 (stainless) to choose from. My boiler is 25' from the house, I'm using 32mm Logstor. I'm feeding a 20x20 heat exchanger and a sidearm exchanger. From the basement penetration to the two exchangers is about 20', and that will be plumbed in 1" PEX. One big loop. There's a few 90's in the mix, but nothing too crazy.
I *think* the 007 will supply enough flow to be adequate. My concern is that it's internal bore is about that of 1" copper's ID, whereas the 26-99 is a lot larger. Eventually, I'm upsizing the heating in this house with radiant floor heat, and I may even heat my detached garage at some point. This setup is long-term temporary, if that makes sense.
I was initially going to go with the 007, but now I'm leaning towards the 26-99 running on low. My last house had a much bigger heat requirement from a longer run (~85') of 1-1/4 PEX and that pump on low was more than enough to get the job done there.
Thoughts?
I'm not buying a new pump anytime soon. I want to use what I have for now.
I *think* the 007 will supply enough flow to be adequate. My concern is that it's internal bore is about that of 1" copper's ID, whereas the 26-99 is a lot larger. Eventually, I'm upsizing the heating in this house with radiant floor heat, and I may even heat my detached garage at some point. This setup is long-term temporary, if that makes sense.
I was initially going to go with the 007, but now I'm leaning towards the 26-99 running on low. My last house had a much bigger heat requirement from a longer run (~85') of 1-1/4 PEX and that pump on low was more than enough to get the job done there.
Thoughts?
I'm not buying a new pump anytime soon. I want to use what I have for now.
17
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Starting to get ready for the winter
« on: August 29, 2015, 03:34:13 PM »
Step 1 done. My father in law (HVAC guy for 30+ years) hooked me up with a new AC coil because mine was undersized, as well as a new plenum and intake setup so everything was actually installed properly and neatly. While at it, we planned to add the water/air heat exchanger for my boiler and we even wired in a 2nd thermostat. I paid for materials, but all of the labor was free and done properly. I need to go get some duct sealing tape still, but it's done for now. We're waiting on a part to finish installation of the replacement heat exchanger for the Trane furnace still, but the major disassembly of my furnace is over.
18
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / A quick pump/piping system question
« on: July 10, 2015, 10:42:56 AM »
I'm looking to do a quick down and dirty install at this house for this winter on the cheap. I'm not skimping, but I'm not doing a full build out this year either. I have the money to plant my boiler on a slab, bury the Logstor I just got from Slimjim, and everything else I need to be done tinkering with the outside portion of the boiler for all future buildouts of the system. All I'm doing in the house for this year is a water to air heat exchanger in my duct work. I'm not even going to try heating my domestic water for now.
My old system, I used a manifold system with a big pump pushing water through the whole thing and zone valves on the circuits I wanted shut down when they weren't calling for heat -- like the heat exchanger in the duct work. It worked well, but since I have several renovations to do to this house, I don't want to put all of my eggs in one basket by doing a full install right away. I want a single loop into my heat exchanger in the duct work and that's it. I do not want hot water circulating through it when the thermostat in the house is not calling for heat.
I have a Taco 007 stainless from my last install (it was used to circulate domestic water) that fits the bill for my heat load, flow rate, and head. Can I setup the 007 to turn on and off with the thermostat? If the 007 is off, would water still thermocirculate through the loop? If I can't shut down the 007 as necessary, my next thought would be to use a zone valve on the heat exchanger and put a bypass just before the zone valve so the circuit would still flow.
The overall goal here is CHEAP. What do you think?
My old system, I used a manifold system with a big pump pushing water through the whole thing and zone valves on the circuits I wanted shut down when they weren't calling for heat -- like the heat exchanger in the duct work. It worked well, but since I have several renovations to do to this house, I don't want to put all of my eggs in one basket by doing a full install right away. I want a single loop into my heat exchanger in the duct work and that's it. I do not want hot water circulating through it when the thermostat in the house is not calling for heat.
I have a Taco 007 stainless from my last install (it was used to circulate domestic water) that fits the bill for my heat load, flow rate, and head. Can I setup the 007 to turn on and off with the thermostat? If the 007 is off, would water still thermocirculate through the loop? If I can't shut down the 007 as necessary, my next thought would be to use a zone valve on the heat exchanger and put a bypass just before the zone valve so the circuit would still flow.
The overall goal here is CHEAP. What do you think?
19
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / I still can't find local Logstor
« on: June 11, 2015, 08:07:35 PM »
I've called around, sent some emails, etc. I can't find any Logstor local enough to go pick up. I don't feel like spending $300 to ship 30' or so that I'm buying. Anyone know of any local dealers to me that carries the stuff? I'm in Berkeley Springs, WV and very near Winchester, VA. I work in Gaithersburg, MD, so I definitely get around.
20
Plumbing / willieG's domestic water setup
« on: January 12, 2015, 04:10:05 PM »
I've heard willieG mention his domestic coil setup more than once before and I haven't seen it yet. I got him to email me the pictures and I'll post his pictures and description for all to see with his permission. I really like the idea and if I can source a big pipe like that, I'll build one myself.
It might just be me, but it also looks a lot like part of a distillery. Maybe it serves double purpose during the warm months.
It might just be me, but it also looks a lot like part of a distillery. Maybe it serves double purpose during the warm months.
Quote from: willieG
This tank is 12 inch pipe 22 inches tall with a 50 foot coil of copper inside. I believe the OWB water is moving at about 6 gpm and the return temps I am not sure but I know you cant hang on to the return pipe or the domestic leaving the coil
When I made my first one I was not sure if the coil would be long enough but it is
If you have any more questions feel free to ask
Photo of the coil wound over an 8 inch pipe (this springs back out to about 10 inches)
Me putting in a lid from a 5 gallon plastic pail…I used a ceramic tile on my first build but this was all I had on hand, I like to put something in the bottom to keep the copper coil from coming in contact with the carbon steel
Coil connection ¾ male thread to ¾ sweat insert this into the ¾ coupling welded to the pipe bring out the end of the coil, now for the next fitting ¾ female sweat to ½ femal sweat….before you can put this over the coil you need to remove the stop inside the fitting that keeps your normal ½ inch pipe from sliding in too far…after you have done this you can slide the fitting over the ½ coil and onto the ¾ male..now just solder both these connections and your coil is now separated from the tank water. Do this at both the inlet and outlet for the coil. As for the OWB water just put in the ¾ male thread to ¾ sweat and away you go.
Coil inserted in pipe and plastic lid can be seen below it
All done
21
Plumbing / Underground lines
« on: January 06, 2015, 07:34:13 PM »
I want Thermopex or Logstor or whatever the really good stuff is. I want 1-1/4" PEX version or 1" PAP. The problem I'm running into is purchasing the stuff. I can't find anyone that wants to sell me less than 100' when I only need about 30' of it. Buying from a far away dealer means shipping prices are ridiculous.
At my last house, I ran the dual lines myself, lined the trench with plastic, and spray foamed them in place with closed cell foam. Over 3 seasons, I never had a degree of temp loss between house and boiler on a 80' run. I could do the same here. I'd rather have my lines encased in something better than sheet plastic this time though, and drain tile is not much better, to say the least. I'd love to run lines inside of 6" PVC and spray foam them in there, but it seems difficult to be able to spray foam lines inside of any pipe, really.
Anyone has wisdom to add? Absolute worst case, I'll buy 100' of the stuff and sell what I don't use or keep for when I build a big garage later down the road.
At my last house, I ran the dual lines myself, lined the trench with plastic, and spray foamed them in place with closed cell foam. Over 3 seasons, I never had a degree of temp loss between house and boiler on a 80' run. I could do the same here. I'd rather have my lines encased in something better than sheet plastic this time though, and drain tile is not much better, to say the least. I'd love to run lines inside of 6" PVC and spray foam them in there, but it seems difficult to be able to spray foam lines inside of any pipe, really.
Anyone has wisdom to add? Absolute worst case, I'll buy 100' of the stuff and sell what I don't use or keep for when I build a big garage later down the road.
22
Heatmor / price check
« on: May 01, 2014, 12:17:54 PM »
Heatmor 200css with shaker grates. I called my local dealer and got a price of $8350. IIRC, I didn't pay nearly that much a few years ago when I got one at my other house. The only reason I'm asking is because the potential buyers of the house want it and it's not uninstalled yet (though currently listed as not conveying). I want to know how much extra $$$ I need to be able to replace what I was going to bring with me.
23
Plumbing / Planning a new install with radiant
« on: December 08, 2013, 08:16:59 PM »
Well, I just moved houses but haven't listed the other one for sale yet. I plan to bring my boiler with me at some point and install it in the spring. My new house is a 1985 modular rancher with a full finished basement. This house has electric baseboard and propane furnace throughout the entire house. The baseboards are controlled on their own room thermostats, the furnace has it's own thermostat centrally located in the house near the return. On my previous house, I installed a coil in the ductwork and setup the heat pump on the same thermostat at the zone valve for the coil with a temperature switch on the main boiler pipe that broke the circuit going to the heat pump compressor when water temperature was over 120 degrees. Works like a charm, but I'm not going to setup this house that way.
I want radiant floor heat. The basement is in need of a remodel anyways, especially to get rid of that ugly drop ceiling. I have plain 2x floor joists spaced on 16" centers with the only wonky thing being a doubled up center support beam for the house since it's a modular. I've never done radiant before and I don't know much about the installation of it. Is it as simple as opening up the joist space, stapling up loops of 1/2" PEX, insulating the joist space again, and installing thermostats to zone valves for each zone I want? I've read a little bit about transfer plates, but are they really necessary if I'm reinsulating the joist space after I put the PEX in? All of the heat has to go up into the floor doesn't it? For the basement, I was planning on radiant walls since the floor is a slab and I don't want to build a raised sub floor. For the radiant walls (I need to replace the ugly wood paneling too), I would run 1/2" PEX loops in the bottom half of the walls with 2" foam board insulation keeping it insulated from the block foundation. The only other thing I want to add is of course domestic hot water and that's as simple as another outlet on a manifold and a plate heat exchanger.
Any thoughts on this setup? This way I basically have 3 independent ways of heating my house (no plans to ever use the baseboard) and I get the radiant floors I always wanted. I don't have to muck with a well working propane furnace setup or hear that blower run all winter long either. I'm already planning on 1-1/4" underground lines insulated with spray foam like my other house and I'll use the same 3 speed Grundfos pump I'm using there. I forget which model, but it's a bit bigger than I needed on it's slowest speed. I know I'll have plenty of pump to run multiple zones for radiant here.
Also, should I do zone valves or zone pumps? The upstairs is 1500 sq ft and and finished portion of the basement is about 1200 sq ft. I really only want a zone for my bedroom and then a zone for the entire rest of the upstairs. Then I want a zone for the den area of the basement and a zone for the rest of the basement. The main floor big zone will probably be pretty large, I would imagine. 2 loops, 3 loops, or 4 loops of 1/2" PEX in between the joists? I live on a hill in a valley between two mountains in WV now.
I want radiant floor heat. The basement is in need of a remodel anyways, especially to get rid of that ugly drop ceiling. I have plain 2x floor joists spaced on 16" centers with the only wonky thing being a doubled up center support beam for the house since it's a modular. I've never done radiant before and I don't know much about the installation of it. Is it as simple as opening up the joist space, stapling up loops of 1/2" PEX, insulating the joist space again, and installing thermostats to zone valves for each zone I want? I've read a little bit about transfer plates, but are they really necessary if I'm reinsulating the joist space after I put the PEX in? All of the heat has to go up into the floor doesn't it? For the basement, I was planning on radiant walls since the floor is a slab and I don't want to build a raised sub floor. For the radiant walls (I need to replace the ugly wood paneling too), I would run 1/2" PEX loops in the bottom half of the walls with 2" foam board insulation keeping it insulated from the block foundation. The only other thing I want to add is of course domestic hot water and that's as simple as another outlet on a manifold and a plate heat exchanger.
Any thoughts on this setup? This way I basically have 3 independent ways of heating my house (no plans to ever use the baseboard) and I get the radiant floors I always wanted. I don't have to muck with a well working propane furnace setup or hear that blower run all winter long either. I'm already planning on 1-1/4" underground lines insulated with spray foam like my other house and I'll use the same 3 speed Grundfos pump I'm using there. I forget which model, but it's a bit bigger than I needed on it's slowest speed. I know I'll have plenty of pump to run multiple zones for radiant here.
Also, should I do zone valves or zone pumps? The upstairs is 1500 sq ft and and finished portion of the basement is about 1200 sq ft. I really only want a zone for my bedroom and then a zone for the entire rest of the upstairs. Then I want a zone for the den area of the basement and a zone for the rest of the basement. The main floor big zone will probably be pretty large, I would imagine. 2 loops, 3 loops, or 4 loops of 1/2" PEX in between the joists? I live on a hill in a valley between two mountains in WV now.
24
Fire Wood / almost out of wood!
« on: January 26, 2011, 07:50:07 PM »
So my wood pile is almost gone right now. It's not that I don't have a supply of wood, but it's a half hour away. My dad owns a tree company, and he's got a monster pile of wood at his house. I went to get a load of wood today in a 4x8 trailer with 4' sides (so, a cord of wood. I loaded up the trailer and the tires were resting on the fenders. So, I unloaded half of the trailer figuring some wood was better than no wood. I started off and one of the tires went flat on the trailer, with no spare. So the trailer with half a cord of wood is sitting at my parents house and I have about one day's worth of wood left. Now, it's dumping snow on us. We're at 8" now with no end in sight yet. 8" pretty much shuts the roads down around here, so I doubt I'll be getting wood tomorrow either.
Now, I can get my blazer out on the roads in the morning, but I don't have a trailer to bring wood home in, I can't put wood in the blazer (or won't), and even if I could bring home a trailer full of wood, it would never make it up into my yard to my boiler with all the snow on the ground.
I have a deuce and a half, but it's got the military NDT tires on it. They suck on anything but hard surfaces. It's a PITA to load wood into it as well. I have a trailer for it even, but with short sides, so it could only hold a small load.
My nearest source of coal is an hour away on a clear road. That could hold me over for a few days perhaps if I got some. Wood is free, though.
I should have brought home wood yesterday I guess.
This sucks....
Now, I can get my blazer out on the roads in the morning, but I don't have a trailer to bring wood home in, I can't put wood in the blazer (or won't), and even if I could bring home a trailer full of wood, it would never make it up into my yard to my boiler with all the snow on the ground.
I have a deuce and a half, but it's got the military NDT tires on it. They suck on anything but hard surfaces. It's a PITA to load wood into it as well. I have a trailer for it even, but with short sides, so it could only hold a small load.
My nearest source of coal is an hour away on a clear road. That could hold me over for a few days perhaps if I got some. Wood is free, though.
I should have brought home wood yesterday I guess.
This sucks....
25
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Help fix my OWB's boil over problem
« on: December 30, 2010, 09:29:00 PM »
This has been loosely discussed in the coal burning thread, and I figured it was time for it's own thread.
My Heatmor has been boiling over recently. This occurred first as I had 80 lbs of anthracite burning in the OWB. I figured that 80 lbs of coal was too much to cool down once the blower kicked off, and that just pushed the water temps too high. I let the coal burn off and loaded up with just wood and it did the same thing as soon as I turned my back on it. I attributed it to the 3 straight days of 35-50 MPH winds "sucking" the blower's close off flap open via natural draft.
Well, it boiled over on me again tonight after 2 days of running fine. Perfectly calm day, full load of wood, high 30's outside. The high temperature safety shutoff had already killed all power to the unit. I went inside and filled up the boiler really quickly (took a good amount of water!!) and then filled the water bladder up halfway like it's supposed to be. The blower was off and the firebox door had been closed for at least 10 minutes before I opened it up. I had a ROARING fire in the fire box. I closed the firebox door and threw a board over the chimney. About 10 seconds later I had a bunch of smoke coming out of the blower. I took the blower unit off very carefully and I caught the problem red handed. The flapper door had gotten enough creosote built up on the hinge that it stuck open. I had kind of cleaned it up about 4 days ago when I first suspected that door to be an issue, but I didn't really clean it hard. A little bump and the flapper closed on it's own.
So, I cleaned the whole hinge area up with a wire brush tonight making sure it was all shiny metal before I put it back into the unit. Thus, I've found my problem.
Now, a solution??
How do I make it so the door is forced shut when the blower is off? Attached are a couple of pictures of the construction of the unit and how it goes into the boiler.
My Heatmor has been boiling over recently. This occurred first as I had 80 lbs of anthracite burning in the OWB. I figured that 80 lbs of coal was too much to cool down once the blower kicked off, and that just pushed the water temps too high. I let the coal burn off and loaded up with just wood and it did the same thing as soon as I turned my back on it. I attributed it to the 3 straight days of 35-50 MPH winds "sucking" the blower's close off flap open via natural draft.
Well, it boiled over on me again tonight after 2 days of running fine. Perfectly calm day, full load of wood, high 30's outside. The high temperature safety shutoff had already killed all power to the unit. I went inside and filled up the boiler really quickly (took a good amount of water!!) and then filled the water bladder up halfway like it's supposed to be. The blower was off and the firebox door had been closed for at least 10 minutes before I opened it up. I had a ROARING fire in the fire box. I closed the firebox door and threw a board over the chimney. About 10 seconds later I had a bunch of smoke coming out of the blower. I took the blower unit off very carefully and I caught the problem red handed. The flapper door had gotten enough creosote built up on the hinge that it stuck open. I had kind of cleaned it up about 4 days ago when I first suspected that door to be an issue, but I didn't really clean it hard. A little bump and the flapper closed on it's own.
So, I cleaned the whole hinge area up with a wire brush tonight making sure it was all shiny metal before I put it back into the unit. Thus, I've found my problem.
Now, a solution??
How do I make it so the door is forced shut when the blower is off? Attached are a couple of pictures of the construction of the unit and how it goes into the boiler.
26
Electronics / Thermostat wiring
« on: December 07, 2010, 04:26:48 PM »
Ok, no one I've asked so far has been able to figure this out yet.
I have a Bryant heat pump and air handler. The air handler is variable speed. I want to keep that system in place and functioning normally if the temperature drops lower than my OWB setting. For the purpose of this explanation, let's assume I want to run the OWB to heat my house to 72 degrees and my heat pump to kick on if the temp in the house drops down to 68 degrees.
I want the air handler to come on whenever the OWB calls for heat and I also want to open a zone valve for the coil in the plenum to let the hot water flow through the coil. My circulator will run 24/7 since I'm also heating my domestic water and running a cast iron radiator off of my OWB via a supply/return manifold system. How do I do it? The heat pump has electric coils for emergency heat and I want to keep those in place as well, just in case the fire burns out and it's so cold out that the heat pump needs to defrost while running.
I was planning on two thermostats most likely. My current thermostat is a Honeywell Vision Pro 8000 (without cooling via humidity controls) and I have a simple digital Honeywell heat/cool thermostat as my secondary one.
I have a Bryant heat pump and air handler. The air handler is variable speed. I want to keep that system in place and functioning normally if the temperature drops lower than my OWB setting. For the purpose of this explanation, let's assume I want to run the OWB to heat my house to 72 degrees and my heat pump to kick on if the temp in the house drops down to 68 degrees.
I want the air handler to come on whenever the OWB calls for heat and I also want to open a zone valve for the coil in the plenum to let the hot water flow through the coil. My circulator will run 24/7 since I'm also heating my domestic water and running a cast iron radiator off of my OWB via a supply/return manifold system. How do I do it? The heat pump has electric coils for emergency heat and I want to keep those in place as well, just in case the fire burns out and it's so cold out that the heat pump needs to defrost while running.
I was planning on two thermostats most likely. My current thermostat is a Honeywell Vision Pro 8000 (without cooling via humidity controls) and I have a simple digital Honeywell heat/cool thermostat as my secondary one.
27
Plumbing / Spray foamed my lines in the ground
« on: November 27, 2010, 05:09:23 PM »
I'd love to post pictures, but I didn't get any. I didn't want to hold my buddy up.
I met him a couple weeks ago because we share a common interest in large military vehicles and we both own M35A2's (old school military 6x6 cargo trucks commonly called deuce and a halfs). We got to chatting about my OWB and the trench I had dug and I told him I was going to spray foam my PEX in the ground. He told me he's done it several times before and he still had contacts with the supplier his company used. He contacted the supplier and got me some old tanks of spray foam and then two brand new spray foam tank kits for me for FREE!!!
Yesterday, we decided to start at 7 AM this morning. At 6 AM I woke up and quickly laid down my 1" PVC electrical conduit and then put the 8' wide 4 mil thick plastic down in a U shape in the trench. It was 35 degrees out and very windy. It remained that way the entire day.
We started spraying my 1-1/4" PEX at the house with the old tanks of foam. It didn't set up well so we stripped it off pretty quickly. We switched to the first set of new tanks and went to town. We got about 60' done before those tanks were used up. We switched to the other new set of tanks and kept going. We had to stop once during the second set of new tanks to let them warm up again in the house. The foam set up fine in the 35 degree weather because the two chemicals mixing create an exothermic reaction. When we were all done, we wrapped the extra plastic around the foamed lines and called it quits. Took us about 2 hours to do my entire 80' and we put a bunch of extra in the hole through my wall in the house and at the OWB. I still have about half of the second set of tanks left including a brand new set of hoses and nozzles. I'm sure I can find stuff around the house to spray as well.
It pays to know people!
If you really want a picture, I can go snap a picture of the foam wrapped up in a blanket of plastic about 3' down in the dirt.
I met him a couple weeks ago because we share a common interest in large military vehicles and we both own M35A2's (old school military 6x6 cargo trucks commonly called deuce and a halfs). We got to chatting about my OWB and the trench I had dug and I told him I was going to spray foam my PEX in the ground. He told me he's done it several times before and he still had contacts with the supplier his company used. He contacted the supplier and got me some old tanks of spray foam and then two brand new spray foam tank kits for me for FREE!!!
Yesterday, we decided to start at 7 AM this morning. At 6 AM I woke up and quickly laid down my 1" PVC electrical conduit and then put the 8' wide 4 mil thick plastic down in a U shape in the trench. It was 35 degrees out and very windy. It remained that way the entire day.
We started spraying my 1-1/4" PEX at the house with the old tanks of foam. It didn't set up well so we stripped it off pretty quickly. We switched to the first set of new tanks and went to town. We got about 60' done before those tanks were used up. We switched to the other new set of tanks and kept going. We had to stop once during the second set of new tanks to let them warm up again in the house. The foam set up fine in the 35 degree weather because the two chemicals mixing create an exothermic reaction. When we were all done, we wrapped the extra plastic around the foamed lines and called it quits. Took us about 2 hours to do my entire 80' and we put a bunch of extra in the hole through my wall in the house and at the OWB. I still have about half of the second set of tanks left including a brand new set of hoses and nozzles. I'm sure I can find stuff around the house to spray as well.
It pays to know people!
If you really want a picture, I can go snap a picture of the foam wrapped up in a blanket of plastic about 3' down in the dirt.
28
Fire Wood / Did some wood splitting today
« on: October 26, 2010, 04:24:43 PM »
The other day I hauled over my dad's 27 ton log splitter and got to work. I have one huge silver maple and three smaller Norway maples that I took down in the spring for the installation of my OWB. I got to work on the pile the other day. I split until the gas tank on the splitter ran out. I did that again today too. I split everything no matter how small and I split the big stuff really small too. My wife will be loading the OWB this winter while I'm at work so she needs to be able to move the wood. I figure I've got about 3/4 cord of wood in a pile so far and about 2x that amount left to split. Then an endless mountain of wood over at my dad's house...
29
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Chimney extension
« on: August 27, 2010, 03:30:28 PM »
Let's say that I find the need to add an extended chimney onto my Heatmor. It's outside, away from everything including trees. What kind of chimney will I need if I want to go up 20' or so? Is there any problem with just slapping on a big section of uninsualted metal stove pipe as long as it's supported so it won't blow over? I'm figuring if creosote builds up in the chimney, eventually it will light and burn off, won't it? I plan to keep a spark arrester on the top of the chimney.
30
Plumbing / Quality headers or manifolds
« on: July 12, 2010, 12:02:25 PM »
I wanted to build two large manifolds for my OWB so I could run several zones from it in the house. Piecing it together of black iron fittings would run me over $300 in steel. Then I found Earth Lee LTD in NY (thanks to someone on Hearth.com). Lee Brooks (female btw) welds together headers of sch 40 steel or stainless steel. Her standard headers are 1", 1-1/4", or 1-1/2" main trunks with 3/4" or 1" tees. She also makes custom headers of all sizes and shapes. I just got a quote from her on two 1-1/4" headers with 4 3/4" tees for $80 plus $12 shipping. She uses American steel and these are welded together in NY. I haven't found a better product or deal elsewhere. I will be ordering shortly.
Here is her website:
http://www.earthlee.com/
I had to contact her directly since she usually sells only to wholesalers, but there was not one in my area.
Here is an example of her work:
Here is her website:
http://www.earthlee.com/
I had to contact her directly since she usually sells only to wholesalers, but there was not one in my area.
Here is an example of her work: