Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Home Made => Topic started by: doubletodd on March 25, 2008, 07:18:47 PM
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any ideas on converting a standard wood furnace to a boiler? I scored a radiator with fan for use as shop heater or heat exchanger for house but still need to figure out a way to heat liquid using existing furnace. it is a longwood with 5' long round firebox. I thought of wrapping it with copper pipe or building a water tank to put on top of it. Any ideas? ???
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Thank you for signing up as a member. I think it is possible for you convert your old WF into a boiler. You will have some work ahead of you. I think if you wrapped it, then put another piece of metal over the pipe, then insulated it good may work. You would have to use a heat resistant insulation. Another thing that you could do is use your fire box then make a square water box that your WF could fit into. Then you could buy a couple of pumps to pump the water back and forth. I can take some pictures for you of mine, may help you. Tell anyone that maybe interested to visit and post on the website.. (WF=wood furnace)..
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My first OWB was built from an abandoned WF. But the firebox was to small. Now mine has a much larger firebox. Firebox is 30 inch diameter by 48 inches deep. Yeah I can fit a full wheel barrel of wood into it at feeding times. But I only have to feed it minimum of 12 hour intervals.. Unless I am feeding it that lo cal feed. (Poplar) It will consume the lightweight wood a little faster.
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Yeah any pictures would help. I don't want to spend 10K and I am enjoying experimenting with my system. outside forced air did help keep the gas man away,but certainly had drawbacks, thanks for the feedback
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here is mine..in my 7th year..newer model coming in 2010 (when i retire)
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very cool, did you build it?
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very cool, did you build it?
yes double..i built it...i am planning on another one in a year when i retire...i have aquired another property and i want to build one with a (i have a tank allready) 1200 gallon tank..i am hoping to fire it one time a day at most and have it keep the things near 60 when i am there and above freezing while i am away .....im not much on making refractry so i am thinking of a 36 inch pipe inside a 42 inch pipe filled with fire brick between them...i hope to achieve very high temps burning this way....then have the heat move out the chimey into a second barrel that will have tubes (big enough i can brush them) for the heat to go through and have them surrounded by water...then circulate the water through my 1200 gallon tank untill the set temp is achieved
you think this may work/..i am looking for all kinds of input..then i can have way more ideas to contemplate on
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sounds good to me...My experiment at this point I am thinking of using my existing wood furnace and mounting some sort of heat exchanger and storage tank,Working at a scrapyard there are interesting things coming in all the time which can be had for scrap price so i am keeping an open mind,but would like to be able to heat house,garage and small shopand hot water. will keep you posted. Thanks for input. Will post some picks when I get the hang of picture posting
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very cool, did you build it?
yes double..i built it...i am planning on another one in a year when i retire...i have aquired another property and i want to build one with a (i have a tank allready) 1200 gallon tank..i am hoping to fire it one time a day at most and have it keep the things near 60 when i am there and above freezing while i am away .....im not much on making refractry so i am thinking of a 36 inch pipe inside a 42 inch pipe filled with fire brick between them...i hope to achieve very high temps burning this way....then have the heat move out the chimey into a second barrel that will have tubes (big enough i can brush them) for the heat to go through and have them surrounded by water...then circulate the water through my 1200 gallon tank untill the set temp is achieved
you think this may work/..i am looking for all kinds of input..then i can have way more ideas to contemplate on
if your inner 36"pipe is insulated from the outer 42" pipe with firebrick, wont it get hot enough to melt or did i misunderstand your plan?
also, when you go from the burn chamber to the heat exchanger, you might think about putting a secondary air inlet in order to give the gasses an additional chance to burn befor the exchanger cools them.
steve
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if your inner 36"pipe is insulated from the outer 42" pipe with firebrick, wont it get hot enough to melt or did i misunderstand your plan?
also, when you go from the burn chamber to the heat exchanger, you might think about putting a secondary air inlet in order to give the gasses an additional chance to burn befor the exchanger cools them.
steve
yes you read right..i hope it doesn't melt (you think it may ?)..if it changes shape a little i dont care, i just want it there to hold the fire brick in place, im not much on making or casting my own refractory
i have thought of a secondary inlet..do youthink i should power it with a small blower ,or no blower, i'm open for all kinds of suggestions..then i can pick from them
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it would be a lot of work to build the stove and have the firebox disintegrate. there isnt much heat transference from the inner pipe to the fire brick like there would be if it was air cooled or water cooled so i suspect that heat would build up to the point that the inner pipe would fail.
im not a big fan of using refractory in the firebox either simply because i want to be able to throw the wood in and not have to worry about breaking it.
im thinking that a water jacketed firebox might be the way to go and try to make the wood gasses burn hotter in another refractory lined chamber. then send the super hot burning gasses on to the heat exchanger.
as to the secondary air, it all depends what you have for a chimney draft to pull the air in.
i guess im like you in that im just in the planning stages right now and will consider all suggestions.
steve
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steve..in the photo i posted earlier inthis thred of my "now" stove..it is infact a 36inch pipe inside a 42 inch pipe filled with water..it works well but i think the water cooled jacket in fact cools the gasses too quickly and a lot of potential heat is going up the stack
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steve..in the photo i posted earlier inthis thred of my "now" stove..it is infact a 36inch pipe inside a 42 inch pipe filled with water..it works well but i think the water cooled jacket in fact cools the gasses too quickly and a lot of potential heat is going up the stack
and that is why the owb as they have been designed in the past, are so smoky and ineffecient.
i dont know exactly how the new gassifier boilers work since i have just begun to research and look at them.
i dont think it makes any difference where you get the high temperatires that burns the wood gasses whether it is in the actual firebox or in a secondary chamber. just as long as you reach those 1500-2000 degree temps and then send them into a heat exchanger to extract the heat.
maybe one of the gassifier gurus could chime in here and do some splainin to us.
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it would be a lot of work to build the stove and have the firebox disintegrate. there isnt much heat transference from the inner pipe to the fire brick like there would be if it was air cooled or water cooled so i suspect that heat would build up to the point that the inner pipe would fail.
im not a big fan of using refractory in the firebox either simply because i want to be able to throw the wood in and not have to worry about breaking it.
im thinking that a water jacketed firebox might be the way to go and try to make the wood gasses burn hotter in another refractory lined chamber. then send the super hot burning gasses on to the heat exchanger.
as to the secondary air, it all depends what you have for a chimney draft to pull the air in.
i guess im like you in that im just in the planning stages right now and will consider all suggestions.
steve
melting point of mild steel is 2730 i dont think the inner pipe will melt..it may distort but i dont care as long as the fire brick keep the heat in..i will also use 2000 degree heat blanket insulation on the outside pipe so what heat leaks through from the fire brick still stays inside