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RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Ridge woods fix for cracks
« on: November 13, 2016, 08:19:56 PM »
I had one crack on bottom left corner. Based on an idea I saw kicked around on here, I ground and welded that crack and put 1/4" steel 1-1/2"x8" diagonally spanning corner as the theory was that it would brace how the end plate expands and contracts. Right, wrong or otherwise, I thought it was worth my time and some 6011's.
Picture is before I put gusset across corner(s). Sorry forgot to take any and it's too hot for pic now. So far it's not leaking... knock on wood.
Boiler is Ridgewood bought in November 2014.
Picture is before I put gusset across corner(s). Sorry forgot to take any and it's too hot for pic now. So far it's not leaking... knock on wood.
Boiler is Ridgewood bought in November 2014.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / What to do??? EPA regs taking effect
« on: May 09, 2014, 10:52:15 PM »
I'm curious of thoughts since there's guys with EPA approved units and others not and both (usually) swear by whatever they have.
I was wholeheartedly planning on building this summer but the appraisal came back $60k short of what I needed on my 1900 sf new home on 40 acres. With that, my wife and I have decided to wait another year.
I budgeted a Portage and Main BL 2840 ($9000) into the cost of the new home, but since not building, do I buy now or roll the dice with what I can buy next year or two years from now when I actually build???
I have the space to store it. I could go with a cheaper unit like Ridgewood, but that doesn't make enough difference to build a home and I still like how the P&M appear bulletproof. BUT, anything not EPA approved will not be available one year from now!!!!!!!!!
I'm just curious what thoughts are from people on here? I hear rumors of EPA approved units of $12k for smallest square footage. I'm just thinking that paying $9k now will be cheaper than $14k later...
I have to heat 3000 sq ft house, 576 attached garage, and 1200 detached workshop.
Thanks,
Lamont
I was wholeheartedly planning on building this summer but the appraisal came back $60k short of what I needed on my 1900 sf new home on 40 acres. With that, my wife and I have decided to wait another year.
I budgeted a Portage and Main BL 2840 ($9000) into the cost of the new home, but since not building, do I buy now or roll the dice with what I can buy next year or two years from now when I actually build???
I have the space to store it. I could go with a cheaper unit like Ridgewood, but that doesn't make enough difference to build a home and I still like how the P&M appear bulletproof. BUT, anything not EPA approved will not be available one year from now!!!!!!!!!
I'm just curious what thoughts are from people on here? I hear rumors of EPA approved units of $12k for smallest square footage. I'm just thinking that paying $9k now will be cheaper than $14k later...
I have to heat 3000 sq ft house, 576 attached garage, and 1200 detached workshop.
Thanks,
Lamont
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Somebody please explain this to me
« on: April 30, 2014, 08:27:28 PM »
If neither was ever sealed with a spray on seal after the pour, the only variable can be the floating/ finishing on either, unless the curing process was slower/ quicker on one compared to other.
Either way, the only thing I've learned in a whole bunch of years of concrete work is that it will get hard and crack. Just have to make it crack where you want it to...
Either way, the only thing I've learned in a whole bunch of years of concrete work is that it will get hard and crack. Just have to make it crack where you want it to...
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Distance of stove from your house
« on: April 16, 2014, 10:36:01 AM »
I'm building this summer and putting in OWB, so I just called my insurance guy (and local fire chief) that carries a number of different companies, along with his dad carrying another company. He said they range from 30-50' with their policies so he told me to stay at least 50' away from any structure so I can shop around different companies when I want to.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heatmor vs Portage & Main efficiency?
« on: April 03, 2014, 09:09:28 PM »
Thanks for the heads up. I really don't plan on burning green wood at all, but in a pinch, a guy has to heat the house right? I won't ever burn straight green wood, it would instead be added with like 3/4 seasoned and 1/4 green, but if we have another year like this and I don't have time to cut wood because I'm building the house, who know how much I'll have stocked up. I have about 20 cord waiting patiently for a house to heat. Just a little concerned after this winter...
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heatmor vs Portage & Main efficiency?
« on: April 03, 2014, 08:41:43 PM »
About choosing a traditional OWB - cost is a major factor and my nearest neighbor is about 3/8 of a mile away. I just can't justify a gasser and really like the option of burning green wood mixed with seasoned if my supply gets low.
I've looked at some indoor units, but as a firefighter, I cannot put a wood fire in my house or another building. I know I'll catch hell about my propane furnace, gas stove, and water heater being fire in the house, but in northeast WI we ran steady this year putting out fires that started from wood fires - not that they were necessarily all equipment failure, but some were. Million ways to start a house fire, but if I can reduce just one way, that's better than none.
Also, I need something that will heat my detached shop with in-floor tubes about 60' from the house so I'll put the boiler in the backyard between the two buildings. I want something I can back up to and stack near the boiler and if it were ever to catch fire, I shut it down and use propane for the time being.
About efficiency, there are many more efficient options and most are from fossil fuels. But, I don't exactly have propane readily available on my land by the house and my hunting land a few miles away. If I were concerned about efficiency alone, I'd go with a tankless propane boiler, but then I would end up with an old school wood stove in my shop and the possibility of fire there (and short of my wife and little boy, those are probably some of my most prized possessions...).
I've made the decision on a traditional OWB, good or bad, agree or disagree, but was simply looking for info on efficiency since warranties are almost identical, price is within a couple hundred bucks, and both are reputable, long term companies. Burning two or three cord a year less might end up being the deciding factor if all other factors are equal.
I've looked at some indoor units, but as a firefighter, I cannot put a wood fire in my house or another building. I know I'll catch hell about my propane furnace, gas stove, and water heater being fire in the house, but in northeast WI we ran steady this year putting out fires that started from wood fires - not that they were necessarily all equipment failure, but some were. Million ways to start a house fire, but if I can reduce just one way, that's better than none.
Also, I need something that will heat my detached shop with in-floor tubes about 60' from the house so I'll put the boiler in the backyard between the two buildings. I want something I can back up to and stack near the boiler and if it were ever to catch fire, I shut it down and use propane for the time being.
About efficiency, there are many more efficient options and most are from fossil fuels. But, I don't exactly have propane readily available on my land by the house and my hunting land a few miles away. If I were concerned about efficiency alone, I'd go with a tankless propane boiler, but then I would end up with an old school wood stove in my shop and the possibility of fire there (and short of my wife and little boy, those are probably some of my most prized possessions...).
I've made the decision on a traditional OWB, good or bad, agree or disagree, but was simply looking for info on efficiency since warranties are almost identical, price is within a couple hundred bucks, and both are reputable, long term companies. Burning two or three cord a year less might end up being the deciding factor if all other factors are equal.
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heatmor vs Portage & Main efficiency?
« on: April 02, 2014, 08:56:47 PM »
Thanks everybody. I appreciate the feedback. Slim - do I mention to my dealer in WI that this site helped make my decision or is that a factory direct deal?
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Heatmor vs Portage & Main efficiency?
« on: April 01, 2014, 01:16:19 PM »
I've narrowed down my search to a Heatmor 200 CSS and a Portage & Main Ultimizer BL 2840. Both dealers seem good enough guys to deal with, but the Heatmor dealer is 20 miles away and the P&M dealer is about 270 miles away.
My major question between these two units is efficiency? Does the P&M Ultimizer series really burn that much more efficiently, or do I just go with my gut and choose the Heatmor based on feedback and proximity of the dealer? I know guys first hand that have Heatmors without problems and one guy that has had his 200 CSS for 20 years and is ordering another before EPA regulations take effect.
Will the P&M really consume a lot less wood for a 1550 sq ft new home, 24x24 attached garage, and 30x40 shop (all with radiant in-floor tubes in concrete)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
My major question between these two units is efficiency? Does the P&M Ultimizer series really burn that much more efficiently, or do I just go with my gut and choose the Heatmor based on feedback and proximity of the dealer? I know guys first hand that have Heatmors without problems and one guy that has had his 200 CSS for 20 years and is ordering another before EPA regulations take effect.
Will the P&M really consume a lot less wood for a 1550 sq ft new home, 24x24 attached garage, and 30x40 shop (all with radiant in-floor tubes in concrete)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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