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Shaver Furnace / Shaver 165
« on: November 29, 2009, 04:38:01 PM »
I have a 165 Shaver that I bought in December of 2007 and first fired it in january 2008. This thing has been a huge nightmare. The first winter I dealt with steam and lots of it. I would use RVT silicone- $10.00 a tube and seal the cover on the top rear, but it would always develop pin holes and steam, soaking my insulation. My neighbor also bought a 250 at the same time and had the same problems. We fixed them in Oct. of 2008, by welding "C channel" around three sides of the opening and a piece of angle across the back. We then tapped and drilled 1/4 holes in the top of the "C Channel" to hold down a quarter inch plate to cover the top rear. This worked awesome. We also welded three nipples into the top back of the stove and connected the domestic hot water coils to them. Now even if we boil water, there's no steam. I called Ben at Shaver's and told him that we had less than $50.00 in this modification, but he wasn't impressed.
This year, we got rid of the stupid and inaccurate thermo disc and added Honeywell Aquastats. What a difference. I simply drilled a hole through the rear of the stove where the thermo disc was, welded in a 1/2 pipe nipple and screwed on a 1/2 collar. Then I added the immersion well and mounted the Honeywell. This is the way this stove should have been built.
My next area to modify will be the blower fan. I just ordered a fan for a Hardy Stove and intend put a draft adjustment on the metal "swinging" door and actuate it with a solenoid. This should greatly increase my recovery time.
As for insulation, I added all the fiberglass insulation I can to the top and I am considering spraying the "Great Stuff" under the stove, but I'm concerned about condensation. Any ideas. Sorry fothe long post, I just hope this helps other who might have bought this terrible stove.
This year, we got rid of the stupid and inaccurate thermo disc and added Honeywell Aquastats. What a difference. I simply drilled a hole through the rear of the stove where the thermo disc was, welded in a 1/2 pipe nipple and screwed on a 1/2 collar. Then I added the immersion well and mounted the Honeywell. This is the way this stove should have been built.
My next area to modify will be the blower fan. I just ordered a fan for a Hardy Stove and intend put a draft adjustment on the metal "swinging" door and actuate it with a solenoid. This should greatly increase my recovery time.
As for insulation, I added all the fiberglass insulation I can to the top and I am considering spraying the "Great Stuff" under the stove, but I'm concerned about condensation. Any ideas. Sorry fothe long post, I just hope this helps other who might have bought this terrible stove.
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