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[Scott7m]

I was wondering the other day if I might be able to get a lower differential between supply/return temps if I changed my OWB diff from 10 to 5.  Any idea?  I burn hardwood mixed with a couple pieces of poplar (trying to get rid of it!)

I'll say too that I started running my secondary draft wide open, I think it burns more efficiently with it open.  I'll just clean the pipe out every so often unless you guys advise against that.

Michael

That wouldn't change the temp difference in supply and return any at all

[kybaseball]

That is pretty cool didn't know you could mix the 2. Just wondering what are the prices of coal and where do you get it at?

[Scott7m]

Clostest place to me is on us 23 or in wrigley ky...


not sure about your area.  I have a friend who works at a commercial coal dock and I brought home about 3500 pound this evening. 

Most all of the good coal gets put on barges here and goes straight to china!

[mcarter]

Thanks Scott

[yoderheating]

mcarter, so long as you clean the pipe out periodically it should burn cleaner and more efficiently with  the secondary draft open.
 kybaseball, I am paying $140 per ton for coal here in Va.

[kybaseball]

How long does a ton last?

[Scott7m]

Well....  It all depends on your heating load...  But I think a pick up load of coal is worth 4 truck loads of hardwood.

Here in eastern ky it's between 90-120 dollars per ton.

I had about 3500 pound on my truck yesterday which is a big load for a short bed

[yoderheating]

I live in a 90 year old house that is rather hard to heat. When its cold and the wind blows I can easily burn 100lbs a day. Then again I have been known to burn a pickup load of wood in three days as well. Each house is different although I doubt there are as many as bad as mine.

[Scott7m]

I live in a 90 year old house that is rather hard to heat. When its cold and the wind blows I can easily burn 100lbs a day. Then again I have been known to burn a pickup load of wood in three days as well. Each house is different although I doubt there are as many as bad as mine.

Wow yoder!  That's a Lot of btu's!!!! 

[yoderheating]

I couldn't afford any other form of heat!

[Scott7m]

That's for sure!  I can't imagine lol

[kybaseball]

Well I have been keeping a very close eye on our electric usage the past week. In the past we were using around 250 to 300 kilowatts a day with the strips kicking in 90% of the time. We are down to using right at 55 kilowatts a day right now!!!! I wouldn't have never thought it would make that much of a difference but man has it ever. By the way we are keeping the house at 74 nice a warm instead of 69 and freezing. If I have figured right I will be saving right at 750 to 800 dollars a month. Man I wish I would have done this earlier maybe could have retired maybe not that far but I would have been able to take a good vacation.

[Scott7m]

Baseball I told you when you called a few months ago that I thought it would drop your bill 80% lol.  Looks like it's gonna be close!  Glad your enjoying your 10000E

[jstange]

Sorry to reactivate this old thread, but have some burning questions.

Have the Heatmaster MF5000SS 
Love the thing, but have definitely got to tweak it some as I am ripping up about 18-20cord of wood a year and I only heat from October - March on average.

I live in Mid Michigan.  Winters can be harsh, but not in my opinion what I call horrible.  I have played with coal, both bituminous and anthracite and learned that anthracite is definitely out.

When the unit was installed, I believe 5 winters ago now, the dealer set it at 180max temp with a 20 degree swing.  I have never lowered the max temp but I have lowered the swing a few times and always end up setting it back to 20.  I think partially because I am just not familiar enough with the unit to fine tune it and if the dealer said do it, I listened.

Well, after reading here, I believe I should lower the max temp some and my swing.  Seems like I will use less wood.  What I haven't been able to find information on is what to have to draft/blower set to in the back of the unit?  I believe it's set at 1/4 or might even be at 1/2.  I haven't looked at it in a while but it's getting to be about that time to fire her up again and I would like to try to be as efficient at possible this winter.  What is the setting for on the fan duct and are there advantages to having it at one setting for wood where another setting would be better for coal?  I primarily burn red and white oak seasoned and this year will probably burn 50% wood and 50% coal.

Any help of suggestions would be appreciated.  Just trying to get more bang for the buck.  Incidentally we calculated that even with buy the wood by the semi load, the unit paid for itself in 3.5 years.  I don't run it all summer because my gas bill is minimal for hot water usage in the summer.

[Scott7m]

That's what were here for is questions

Can you please tell us what your heating, length of the runs, and such

As far as your temps, I'd leave them alone.  I used tone a fan of running my stove cooler, but u learn as you go.  The lower you run the temp the more likely you are to cause corrosion in the firebox.

Let me explain, burning wood gives off moisture, that moisture will collect on any metal surface below 140.  So if your stove is 160,the heat is on, the kids are taking a bath, your return water could be coming back 110-120 degrees, that return water could cool the steel on the firebox perhaps on one side or one spot, then the moisture from the wood will want to gather there and drip down into the coals causing an acidic problem. 

But until I learn ore about your application and installs I can't be of much help.  The adjustments as far as air n such sound right.

Feel free to give me a call