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[ckbetz]

From what I hear you'll not be able to touch a Central Boiler for what you can get a Hardy for.  I looked at Hardy's first but the dealer close to me didn't think he had a stove big enough to keep me burning for more than 6 or 8 hours at a time.  He also wasn't sure how to plumb it into my dinosaur at the time either.  Anyway, the rest is expensive (but paid for itself) history.

[Scratch]

Really... what's a Hardy go for about.  Just the stove itself.  I paid just under 8 grand for my CB 6048. 
 
I really wish I would have checked into these things a little more before I bought mine.  I went off of 2 others suggestions and never really heard of many other brands.  Not dissin' my CB at all... just wish I would have found this forum and could make a better decision for myself.

[faulkner]

Your sizing and set-up is the most important in my mind. More important than the brand you buy! A few things below my opinion only.

1) Get the next larger unit that you think you need (don't skimp on size)!
2) Spend the extra on you pipe, yes $12.50 a foot but worth it.
3) Place the unit as close as possible to your home. What I mean is the less pipe you run the less heat loss! (wind direction?).
4) The more water capacity the better.
5) Stainless ?? In my mind its not what its cut out to be. Just my opinion.

Not a whole lot of difference in all of them. I use a Central Boiler 6048. I heat an old farm house, not insulated to well, high ceilings, two story and 3000 sq. feet. For a year of burning I use about 7 cords. I am totally satisfied with it. 

[ckbetz]

Scratch, I'm not sure now but I remember them being 10 to 15% cheaper when I got mine.  I'm like you, when I bought I looked at as many online as I could but only a few in my area to look at in person.  I saw a Heatmor, Taylor, Hardy, and maybe a couple of others.  I think the thing that sold me on the CB was the fact that the dealer said it would be no problem hooking it up.  Well I've redone it a few times and right now I'm getting as much as I can out of it without removing my old boiler inside and redoing the near piping.  I have a lot of 3" black iron at the old boiler so it made plumbing kinda hard. 

I do like the look of PhinPhan's Woodmaster.  It's similar to a CB but has a round firebox.  Check those out too.

[Scott7m]

whats the advantages to the round firebox??  pressure relief in the corners or what?
 
I've been pricing them in my area, I got priced a 5036 CB for 7800, Not installed. 
I was priced a Hardy H2 installed for 7200, or an H4 installed for 8500. 

you guys using those big monster 6048's, i thought those were for stuff over 5k sq ft

[Scratch]

you guys using those big monster 6048's, i thought those were for stuff over 5k sq ft

My house also has my wife's hair salon attached to it, which we're heating.  And I'm planning on adding my workshop in a pole barn to it next year.

[ckbetz]

My house was built in 1867 when they worried more about how to keep one cool than warm.  If it got cold they'd just throw some more coal in one of the 7 fireplaces.  So needless to see the older large homes (mine is pushing 5000 sq. ft.) are much harder to heat.  I do hope adding another six new windows and insulation + siding will help for next heating season. 

I'm glad the Hardy guy was honest and said he doubted one would heat my home without loading it more than 3 times a day or I might have been sorry I bought an OWB.  Believe me, I'd rather have a smaller firebox using less wood..hehe

[Dirtslinger]

whats the advantages to the round firebox??  pressure relief in the corners or what?
 
I've been pricing them in my area, I got priced a 5036 CB for 7800, Not installed. 
I was priced a Hardy H2 installed for 7200, or an H4 installed for 8500. 

you guys using those big monster 6048's, i thought those were for stuff over 5k sq ft

With 40 percent fewer seams than a square box, round firebox  have stronger chambers with less chance of cracking or leaking, and pitting is minimized.
It lets the water flow all they way around the drum

[Scott7m]

I literall go back and fourth back and fourth thinking about which one to get.............   

I start looking at the simplicity of the Hardy, and then I like some of the other things about the central boiler!  It's a tough decision, it may just come down to where i can get the best deal.  Right now I'm debating on the 5036 or hardy h4.

[ckbetz]

I like taco circulators because they have a cartridge that's easy to change if you need to replace the unit.  4 small bolts and your pump is as good as new.  See what kind of controls, pump, pex, etc. each dealer uses too. 

Will you need any zone valves are anything special?  Central Boiler has installation kits that will provide you with everything you need for your particular application.  They also have detailed instructions/illustrations to help you through the install.  I'm sure they all have something similar but make sure you're looking at that too.

[jon d]

I too was at the hardy / central boiler decision? The fact that the hardy had forced air vs. natural draft made my choise for me. I thought  that the blower on the hardy forced unused hot air out the stack. I know hardy users in my area.  They use more wood than i do!! I would not install another without thermopex!! It cost alot but i lose very heat temp. returning to boiler!!

[Scott7m]

I'm going to get the insulated lines and such........

Right now I'm thinking that the central boiler!  theoretically should be easier on wood based on the firebox design and air draft..  Am I on the right track?  looks like if your forcing the air in their would be just to much as jon said.   

I appreciate your guys help....   it is helping

[atlarge54]

I'm running an old global hydronics stainless unit. The stainless corroded in just a couple years, so stainless can have problems. I wrapped the firebox in copper tubing replaced water jacket and filled the old water jacket with pea gravel to normalize temp swings. I would shy away from any OWB with a blower to feed the fire. My blower is disconnected so the aquastat only allows the solenoid to open the port for combustion air. When I fired it up for the first time with the blower the heat going out the stack was truely amazing. I paid $300 for the junk unit and I'm pleased with everything especially considering all in costs of $3K. This won't heat a McMansion but for a modest home is a pretty good choice. I'd also recommend a sidearm for hot water. My system has had a fire for about four years now winter and summer.

[Jason]

My dad heated his house for years with an indoor natural draft wood/coal furnace and he is much more satisfied with my Hardy than he was his furnace.  That's apples and oranges, I realize, but I really like having the blower.  I get solid 12 hour burn times even when it's really cold and the furnace keeps the drafty old house nice and warm even on the coldest nights.

 I guess that's one nice thing about the variety of furnaces out there: there's something for everyone.

[Scott7m]

looks like the blower could just cause it to unncessarily send a lot of heat up the pipe?  I could be wrong but it seems like it would do that, I thought a natural vent would be better.