Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: WoodMOJoe on November 21, 2013, 12:14:01 PM
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There is a little white plastic piece in the outlet end of my pump. Is that the check valve and do I want it in there?
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I was advised to pull mine out and I've had no negatives to this.
Brian
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I was advised to pull mine out and I've had no negatives to this.
Brian
Thanks Brian, yeh it looks like it would really restrict the flow, can't imagine what it's purpose would be in my system.
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If it is your main boiler pump, pull it out. If you are using one something else like in-floor heat, leave it in.
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If it is your main boiler pump, pull it out. If you are using one something else like in-floor heat, leave it in.
Yes, it is my main boiler pump, will leave it in, thanks.
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I'm using mine to circulate water between the oil burner and the flat plate heat exchanger. I left it in but should I remove it? Thanks, Roger
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If it is your main boiler pump, pull it out. If you are using one something else like in-floor heat, leave it in.
Yes, it is my main boiler pump, will leave it in, thanks.
Was a long day yesterday, I meant I will TAKE IT OUT! :bash: ;D
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When I went to pull the check valve out I just got half of it I think?
Do I need to get the white piece out in the pic below? If so anybody know any tricks to do that?
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It should all come out.
Can you hook it with something like an allen wrench?
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It should all come out.
Can you hook it with something like an allen wrench?
It's in there real tight but I will figure out something to pull it out, just wanted to make sure it was supposed to. Thanks RSI.
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mine did not come out easlily either...i grabbed it with pliers but it came out in a couple of pieces
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The best tool I've found for that job is the saw blade on my leatherman (wave), it works great, don't cut yourself, it hurts!
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mine did not come out easlily either...i grabbed it with pliers but it came out in a couple of pieces
Yeh, I think I will have to break it in pieces to get it out, will try again tomorrow.
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I tried to remove mine also and the large diameter white that fits in the cast bore would not come out. Used a to pry the edge back and could see what looks like an O-ring behind it and then it flares out wider still as if it is installed from the inside if the pump.
WARNING - DO NOT use a heat gun in attempt to make it softer to remove. The impeller will not take it!!!
On a related note does anyone know if a rebuild kit is available for a 26-99? This bonehead was determined to get that white part out.
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I did some Googling and found this (from 2006):
"Grundfos internal check valves are friction fitted in the outlet of the pump and have been successfully applied in the field for over 5 years. The location in the outlet of the pump allows for easy removal, if desired, but the low pressure drop design of the product makes it optional - pump performance with and without the valves are nearly identical."
Don't know if that is true or not but I am now thinking I may just leave the white part that is still in the pump.
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The best tool I've found for that job is the saw blade on my leatherman (wave), it works great, don't cut yourself, it hurts!
I just saw this reply Slim, missed it earlier. Yeh, I can see where a small saw blade could cut a slot in a place or 3 and allow it to come out, thanks.
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So, do the check valves need to come out if it is the main and only pump?
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It doesn't have to come out but it will give you slightly better flow and avoid some possible problems.
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Wow.......shakes head......
There are curve charts for each circulator, with and without the IFC, internal flow check. You only use a flow check if the design calls for it. It will not hurt anything by being in there. There are more positives than negative. Most cases your only looking at > half GPM difference.
They eliminate ghost flow, aid in purging, and reverse flow when multiple circs are used in a P/S or multi boiler system.
Splitting hairs
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What is a positive for it being in the only pump on a single loop OWB system? I have seen them cause the system to get airlocked because you can't purge air out to the boiler through the pump. Doesn't happen often but why leave it there and lose the > 1/2 gpm?
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:post:
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The reason that I pull out the checks on the wood boiler loop is that I bring my make up water into that loop between 2 ball valves, this allows me to purge the air back to the wood boiler in both directions, one side at a time, this eliminates any air in that loop
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There may be a trick to getting these out easily but for anyone that is trying to pull that check valve and having problems...
After having some issues trying to remove the check valve I was able to get it out by drilling a 1/8" pilot hole in the white seat of the valve, then I took a 2 1/2" deck screw, ground the sharp tip off, and ran the screw into the pilot hole. That pushed the check valve right out.
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The valve itself will pop right out with a good pair of needle nose pliers, it's the O ring and plastic seat that I use the reverse saw blade of my Leatherman Wave on, it grabs the plastic insert and can pull it right out as well.
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What is a positive for it being in the only pump on a single loop OWB system? I have seen them cause the system to get airlocked because you can't purge air out to the boiler through the pump. Doesn't happen often but why leave it there and lose the > 1/2 gpm?
If that 1/2 GPM makes a difference in the operation, then I feel sorry for the design and customer who owns it.
As far as purging , if that one check prevents you from getting air out. I state again, its a very poor system design.
I laugh when I finally get the call, after everyone else has had their sausage beaters in there, trying to remedy something that takes me 15 minutes or less. Of course I make my job look easy, and I'm not even that good. Pay a little now or pay a lot later. Shoulda woulda coulda, hind sight is usually 20/20. A good install shouldn't require a pro every time something needs a fix , maintenance or service. But some need the job security.
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Sprinter, this is one of those times that you are DEAD WRONG, by pulling the check valve and bringing domestic water in between 2 ball valves in order to fill from EITHER supply or return, no matter how many whoop de whoops you have in the line I can completely eliminate the air from the lines, I am not relying on a circulator to purge air, anyone wanting to do it right will also install a snifter valve between those 2 ball valves enabling him to blow out the majority of water in case of a major malfunction during winter months, leaving the check valve in on the wood boiler loop takes away the ability to do either, come on think about it you are much smarter than that!!!!!!!!!!!
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I think your reading too much into it. That's the problem with posts, hard to get what exactly the intentions are or what is trying to be said.
I'm not saying checks have to be there or not be in there. Just that's it's not an issue, in or out. A loop is a loop, not that hard to bleed, unless zero provisions are available to vent/purge. And who doesn't leave a way to bleed air?
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Me. Don't have an issue that I am aware of either. Course I'm not very bright. Wood is burning, water is being pumped, house is warm, repeat.
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The check valve on the wood boiler loop serves absolutely no use but it's presence does not allow back feeding through the supply line back out to the wood boiler to vent any and all air to the top of the boiler, for those who may have air pockets or high spots in the piping this is a great way to purge that air with street pressure water. Why would you leave it in, racking my brain here and can't find a single reason to leave it in.
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The check valve on the wood boiler loop serves absolutely no use but it's presence does not allow back feeding through the supply line back out to the wood boiler to vent any and all air to the top of the boiler, for those who may have air pockets or high spots in the piping this is a great way to purge that air with street pressure water. Why would you leave it in, racking my brain here and can't find a single reason to leave it in.
Thats because there is NO reason
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Check valves, are typically required when using Mulitple pumps; however and this is the BIG KICKER - dependant upon hydronic design. Looked up pump curve for 15-58 & they show that there is a slight decrease in GPM across the curves, but the lines are nearly on top of each other - other than when running in High, then its maybe 1 GPM with check valve in. Do the math and look at the pump curves
NOTE: If the pump is always ON, as main pump off of boiler - then I would think that the check valve is not required.
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I know this is a little late, but I figured out a non-distructive way of removing the little white plastic piece. Place a large flathead nail in a pair of Vise-Grips and hook the head of the nail under the white piece. Mine came out with a good tug and I can now reuse it. You may not need to use the Vise-Grips, but it gave me something more substantial to hold on to.