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Author Topic: HX (water-to-air) ?s  (Read 4510 times)

WoodMOJoe

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HX (water-to-air) ?s
« on: April 18, 2013, 07:30:15 AM »

I have an upflow propane furnace in my basement and plan on installing my hx in the main vertical plenum, about a foot above my a-coil, right below where it hits the horizontal trunk that feeds the whole house.

The vertical plenum is about 20" x 20", but I don't think a 20" x 20" hx would fit in that space, too tight.

Would you use a 19" by 20" in this situation?

Do you just attach a couple of small pieces of sheet metal angle to the insides of the duct to support the hx? 

Also, it seems that all the hx inlet ports I have seen are sweat connections.  Do I need to use a threaded adapter that sweats inside (male) the ports, outside (female), or does it matter? 

I am a total greenhorn when it comes to sweat soldering but it's time I learned.   ;)
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Scott7m

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2013, 09:11:48 AM »

I always use shark bites on the ports sticking out....

A 19x19 may be the best fit for you, there roughly 19 1/2 x 19 1/2
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WoodMOJoe

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2013, 10:10:33 AM »

I always use shark bites on the ports sticking out....

A 19x19 may be the best fit for you, there roughly 19 1/2 x 19 1/2

I never even considered using sharkbites for that connection, didn't realize they would fit a copper connection.  Maybe I won't have to learn sweat soldering after all!

As far as the HX dimensions...I thought that only one dimension was really critical, that is, the "width' of the HX that slips into the duct.  Seems like most of the pics I have seen, the side with the ports usually sticks out of the duct a little bit anyways?

I have seen a lot of 18x20 and 19x20 but never a 19x19.  Is that a custom size?
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Scott7m

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2013, 11:09:41 AM »

They make them all sizes basically.  But 18x18 would work to,that's the screen size, the ports normally stick outside the plenum or duct
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WoodMOJoe

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2013, 11:36:41 AM »

They make them all sizes basically.  But 18x18 would work to,that's the screen size, the ports normally stick outside the plenum or duct

That helps Scott, I didn't realize that the listed dimensions were the size of the finned area only.

How do you support the hx's that you mount laying flat in a vertical duct?
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Scott7m

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2013, 11:42:56 AM »

Well...  You can take angle and make a little ledge on each side for it to set on. 

I never install in the plenum though......
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WoodMOJoe

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2013, 12:49:33 PM »

Well...  You can take angle and make a little ledge on each side for it to set on. 

I never install in the plenum though......

Ok, that is what I was thinking I could do (angle ledges).

My other possibilities for place to install the hx would be the 12x18 return duct, and the main trunk line, but the main trunk is only 8x20.  Of those choices I thought the 20x20 supply plenum would be the best.

Here is a pic of my furnace setup, let me know what you think.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/barkeywayne/WaterHeaterandFurnace03-25-13_zps3a9de780.jpg
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Bull

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2013, 05:12:32 AM »

I put mine in the supply line this time (down draft) and used shark bite 90 degree, used angle about 3/4 by 3/4 on the sides to lay on when I slide it in.
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WoodMOJoe

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2013, 06:18:00 AM »

I put mine in the supply line this time (down draft) and used shark bite 90 degree, used angle about 3/4 by 3/4 on the sides to lay on when I slide it in.

The sharkbites sound like just the ticket for that spot, Bull. 

I would probably spend as much on flux and solder as those 2 fittings will cost...and then have to hope my beginner sweat soldering held.
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Michael

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2013, 06:48:13 AM »

I used shark bites on my HX only and they leak when heating up or cooling down. I used crimp style everywhere else. I will replace them with sweat connections this summer.
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Scott7m

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2013, 08:17:30 AM »

Curious to know if they were actual shark bites or a knock off brand, the knock offs have a different I ring that seeps sometimes, I never use those

If your soldering a big bulky brass Elbow onto the copper, have fun, it's not easily done with a conventional little bottle, I have made it work yea, but the fitting is so bulky it takes a lotttt of heat and a professional plumber told me I shouldn't attempt it without a professional plumbers torch n such
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Michael

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2013, 10:18:02 AM »

They were a watts brand form menards. It has been years but I used to do plumbing. I would start with copper not brass on the HX.
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Scott7m

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2013, 01:01:15 PM »

Yep those are junk, the oring material is supposed to be different and once it gets hot, when it cools it doesn't contract back and leaks

Those from Menards and another called pro bite are a disaster waiting to happen, a forum member kybaseball just this week has nearly every single pro bite fitting in his home start leaking, he kept adding water to the boiler and looked in his basement and water was dripping everywhere.  I have used shark bite and gator bite, no problems yet.  There is another one I use on cold water connections called tec tite, but I've never tried them on anything else
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homeyd

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Re: HX (water-to-air) ?s
« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2013, 04:15:13 PM »

i would take my exchnger by  my dealer   where you bought it from. they should be happy to have one of their guys sweat you on a copper ell and a sweat  x pex adpter. we do it all the time, only charge for the fittings    LIFES GOOD!!!
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