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Topics - oaky

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1
Fire Wood / Log handling tools
« on: October 07, 2016, 08:02:00 PM »
I ordered this cant hook the other day:
http://www.woodchucktool.com/dual

This other one will have to wait til Christmas. My brother and his son each have one, says, best thing to come along for handling logs and big round firewood.
https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Log-Lifting-Pick-28in-L/dp/B004HL039G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475891896&sr=8-1&keywords=oregon+log+pick

2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Question on P&M BL condensation
« on: November 05, 2015, 09:59:59 AM »
I'm curious to know why the location of the condensation (puddle of water) is always just behind the ash door, about 4 inches in area? Where does the condensation originate on the BL? I understand that condensation occurs at initial start  up for the season and whenever the boiler water temp or the water return line is around 137 degrees. My return line is connected on the bottom port.

3
Plumbing / Broken PexWorx?
« on: October 03, 2015, 07:47:45 PM »
I came across this topic: Broken Pex, in the Plumbing category. According to this topic, the PEXworx may have quality issues. I was planning to order some of this brand name PEXworx pex-al-pex tubing to update my hydronic plumbing in the basement, but now I will have to do some research on this brand.

Has anyone else used this brand? My original plumbing installation was pex-al-pex made by Kitek, this was over 15 years ago, still in perfect working condition as well as all the pap compression fittings.. I'm pretty set staying with pex-al-pex & the recommended fittings for them. for my own personal reasons.

4
Portage & Main / Chimney brush for cleaning secondary heat exchanger
« on: October 01, 2015, 04:11:15 PM »
Is there anything wrong with using 6x10 inch chimney brush to clean out the 6x10 secondary heat exchanger. Even I don,t have my boiler running yet, I thought I,d take my 6 inch round chimney brush and run it through for the heck of it. Seems the bristles make good contact with the metal, but a rectangular would be better.

5
Site Suggestions / Text Over-Run
« on: September 21, 2015, 07:16:22 PM »
Can something be done about this text over lapping other text?

6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Big Delta-T Spread
« on: December 03, 2014, 12:54:01 PM »
I recently installed a couple of water temperature monitors, one behind the owb & one in the house for where the lines enter thru basement wall. Currently, the delta-t is 40-45F. At the lowest water temp on the return is 135, usually the first 1-2 hours in the morning, otherwise, about 145 degrees on the return. Owb set at 180/190. Heating a total of 2200 sq ft including basement.
The Taco is running quietly except when boiler temp goes over 195 degrees. Any reason why the huge delta spread with such a light load & ft head?

I have a Taco 007 F5 circulator behind owb connected to the top supply port
60' 1" Pex-A-Pex
40' 3/4" PAP inside basement
One 20"x20" w/a exchanger in gas furnace plenum
Another 20"x20" w/a standalone exchanger 20' from the gas furnace near floor level, this one is seldom used for near my shower.
Total of 10 ball valves with one 1" inline sediment strainer
Circulator is higher than the basement by a few feet

7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Churgling in my Taco 007 circulator
« on: November 24, 2014, 12:57:14 PM »
A couple of weeks ago, I upped my boiler temp from 185, to 190.
Since then, there has been a churgling sound from my Taco circulator, it only does this when the boiler overshoots the set temp, starting at about 195+, then quits when the temp comes down past around 195, then all is quiet with the circulator until it comes up past 195 again. The churgling sound can be heard in my basement through the lines. Odds are, that there is air trapped in the circ, snapping the valves on/off in all locations doesn't seem to do the trick. It worked when I initially filled the boiler with water for the first time this fall.

The BL-2840 only overshoots the set temp on windy days, otherwise, the low/high set temps are tight.


8
Portage & Main / Water Gauge Bottomed Out on BL-2840
« on: November 12, 2014, 08:13:21 AM »
Yesterday morning, my water gauge was on the add mark, added a gallon of water to the full mark at the end of firing cycle. I went to load the BL-2840 for the night, I seen some of the water had expanded out of the over-flow. This morning, the water gauge was bottomed out, checked behind the BL & saw a lot of condensation had occurred overnight, opened the ash door, some water dripped out & a pool of water sitting inside of the ash drawer in front, I must have sprung a leak in the water-jacket.

Started to add water in the top over-flow cap, it only took less than a half a gallon of water, still read ADD, as I picked up the water level gauge for the second time, it seemed a little heavier than normal. Unscrewed the plastic bulb & seen it was full of water. Installed the gauge & now reads full.

For the excess condensation, I figured since the overnight low was 10F for the first time this winter, that condensation will occur at colder temps. I had it set at 185/10 diff for the last few weeks, upped to 190/10 diff for now & see what happens.

9
Portage & Main / Nitrite Testing for BL 2840
« on: November 01, 2014, 10:12:26 AM »
Just wondering if the Central Boiler Nitrite Test kit would be ok to use for my BL 2840? I already own General Hydroponics liquid PH test indicator that I use for my hot tub.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Test-Kit-Central-Boiler-PH-Strips-Wood-Boiler-Water-Quality-Nitrite-Test-/311123939218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48706e8f92

10
Portage & Main / Doing hot burns on the BL's
« on: October 23, 2014, 01:31:13 PM »
I haven't done a hot burn on my BL yet or any wood heating stove/furnace (30+ years), Always been too afraid I might melt or wreck something especially now with this new unit or burning my house down while having indoor heating units. This question is primarily aimed at Slimjim, since he's the most reliable person I trust when it comes to P&M's, but I will greatly value anyone else's thoughts too who does hot burns on a regular basis on their owb's.

The other day while I was cleaning out the ash drawer, my BL started vibrating and the backdraft door in the air box was rattling away, I closed the ash door to about 2 inches and the vibration stopped. I assume this just air pulsating through the ash door into the fire box. I guess my main concern is, how long should I do the hot burn through the ash door without any damage to the unit. I would like to burn away this even thin layer of creosote inside the fire box & secondary heat exchanger, since we can't seem to get a good cold snap here in WI since I started by BL Oct 1. 68F for tomorrow, norm is 56F.

11
Just wondering if a thin even coating of creosote, about a fingernail thickness, bad for mild steel water jackets of owb's when outdoor day temps are in 50's & 60's F for 3 or 4 weeks stretch at a time? I load up 3 or 4 pieces of dry oak in the morning & same amount in the evening.

12
Portage & Main / Portage & Main Boiler Treatment Question
« on: August 25, 2014, 07:25:30 AM »
I asked my BL dealer if the P&M Boiler treatment balances the ph, nitrites and water hardness and if I should pour in half of the gallon jug since the direction reads that it treat 200 gallons of water. The BL-2840 holds 90 gallons. He wrote back: "the treatment is sodium nitrate so it balances the nitrate level. Pour the whole jug of treat down the float tube as you fill the boiler, circulate for a day then test".

Slimjim, do you know if P&M Boiler Treatment balances the ph, nitrite, water hardness and what is your recommendation on how much treatment I should pour in for the furnace first start up this fall?

13
Is there a less expensive water test kit that will be acceptable for testing the boiler water for P & M warranty? Currently, it's $90 for the Taylor k-1510 test kit. Thanks.

14
Portage & Main / Union Fitting For Bottom Port?
« on: August 21, 2014, 04:28:13 PM »
I just started to plumb my new BL now, and ran into my first snag. I was not able to spin my shut off valve onto the bottom port elbow. I installed a short brass threaded nipple onto the elbow and then realized I'm not able to spin my shut off valve because of it being too close to the sheet metal.

Should I connect a brass union to my short threaded nipple pipe, then connect another short brass nipple to the union, then my shut off valve?

15
Plumbing / Basement fill valve
« on: July 20, 2014, 06:22:50 PM »
Is it better to locate the fill valve on the supply line or return line? I want to place it onto the 1 inch line where it enters the inside basement wall.

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