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Messages - NC4AB

Pages: [1] 2
1
Hardy / Re: Insulation
« on: November 01, 2012, 10:39:48 PM »
I bought the rigid board insulation from McMaster-Carr when I overhauled my H2.

www.mcmaster.com

2
Hardy / Re: Big gap behind fire door flange??
« on: October 03, 2011, 04:26:11 PM »
I think you are missing the piece of insulation (~ 1.5" thick) that goes behind the panel between the ash door and the firebox door.

Andy

3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: hardy boil overs
« on: November 25, 2010, 06:26:04 AM »
Got to thinking that the boil over you are seeing could actually be the Temperature and Pressured Relief Valve on the domestic hot water opening up.  Mine does that when the water gets ~195 and no one is using any hot water in the house.  Once the weather turns cold I don't have any problems with it opening up.

4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: hardy boil overs
« on: November 24, 2010, 06:24:14 AM »
Areas to check are the fan damper and the flap at the rear of the stove.  Either one can cause an air leak. 

My guess is that you are filling the stove full and have very little heating load this time of year.

Try only filling the stove half full and this will help the boil overs until we get some colder weather.

5
Electronics / Re: opinions on Ranco or Johnson controls thermostats
« on: October 03, 2010, 11:25:10 AM »
Don't want to hijack the thread but I use a USB labjack to scale the 0-10v to a usable signal, and I also log the status of the circulation pump, damper, fan and water fill valve. 

I set the RANCO to open the damper if the water drops below 160 and closes when the water gets above 170.  If the natural draft is not enough then fan will on when the water gets to 150 and turns of at 160.

I used a thermostat wire to bring the 0-10v signal back to the LabJAck, the digital signals are on a cat 5 cable

A screen shot is shown below:

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

6
Hardy / Re: Wanted
« on: October 03, 2010, 08:12:08 AM »
Used Hardy OWBs are about impossible to find. 

I keep a look on Ebay and Craigslist but haven't seen but one or two in the past year or so.  There was an auction near me in the spring of this year, a 20 year old Hardy H4 sold for $3,600.  (too rich for my blood)

7
Electronics / Re: opinions on Ranco or Johnson controls thermostats
« on: October 03, 2010, 08:08:00 AM »
I upgraded the Honeywell Aquastat to a 2 stage RANCO on my Hardy OWB a couple of years ago and have no complaints.  All the temperatures and differentials are programmable so the Ranco gives you very good flexibilty, and I used the O-10V temperature output to log the water temperature on my PC.

8
Fire Wood / Re: TYPE of CHAIN SAWS USED
« on: January 05, 2010, 06:17:21 PM »
Stihl 028
Stihl 039
Stihl 011 x 2

BTW - I like orange saws if you can't tell

9
Hardy / Re: Used Hardy Stove info
« on: November 03, 2009, 06:10:39 PM »
I would not hesitate to buy a Hardy for $1000.  The best way to move it is to drain the water, lift the outer shell off and use an appliance hand truck (the kind with a strap) to move it.

Hardy has the installation manual on their website that describes how to take the outer shell off.

10
Hardy / Re: Used Hardy Stove info
« on: November 02, 2009, 07:28:19 PM »
WillieG has pretty well covered the new versus used issues. 

Other than looking at the stove physically to make sure it hasn't been damaged the only real failure point on the Hardy would be if the owner has used water that is high in chloride which can cause stress corrosion cracks at the welds.  This is not a very common problem but it can occur.  All the other parts are available from Grainger and can be easily replaced if needed.

11
Electronics / Re: Pumps not running
« on: September 29, 2009, 06:23:16 PM »
The circulator on the Hardy stoves are normally controlled by a thermostat.  If the thermostat is not calling for heat, the pump won't run.
check for 24 VAC on the relay coil on the rear of the stove.  No 24 VAC, no pump run. 

12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: concrete pad ?
« on: September 25, 2009, 04:26:11 PM »
From experience installing 3 Hardy H-2's, you are better off leaving the rear of the Hardy sitting off the pad for ease of connecting the water lines (see the pictures in the installation manual), and use the extra concrete in the front of the stove.  An extra 2 or 3 feet in front of stove works great for cleaning out ashes and loading the wood.

As far as thickness of the pad you need at least 4", pour it a little thicker around the edges and you will be in business.

13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: age of owb
« on: August 24, 2009, 03:18:19 AM »
WilleG -

From my experiences your stove should last a very long time if you keep your water treated properly and the welds don't crack.

14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: age of owb
« on: August 22, 2009, 03:17:45 PM »
I have a used Hardy H2 that was originally installed in 1987, I burn ~ 6 months of the year. 
My father in law's H2 was installed in 1991, burns 6 - 8 months of the year. 
Neighbor has a H2 that was installed in 1990, he burns his burns 24-7.

Other neighbor has a Carolina Water Stove (locally made brand) that was installed in 1985.

Andy


15
Hardy / Re: hardy
« on: August 22, 2009, 03:12:37 PM »
Mine is a 1987 H2 model that I purchased used last year.  Operates fine after I replaced the blower motor.

Andy

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