Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Author Topic: hardy boil overs  (Read 10232 times)

evilgma

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1
    • View Profile
hardy boil overs
« on: November 22, 2010, 10:29:06 AM »
Hello, I'm new to this site and have inherited a 20 plus year old home with a hardy furnace.  This was my parent's home and I paid close attention to the Hardy operation; however, a problem has surfaced that I cannot diagnose.  Random boil overs are occurring.  It can happen anytime, day or night.  I actually sat by the furnace one day just to see what was happening.  A boil over occurred while the doors were closed, the fan was not running and the damper was closed.  I deduced the door seals needed replacing, WRONG, still happening.  We are burning cured red, black and white oak and occasional hickory while keeping trash, etc. to a minimum.  Any thoughts?
Logged

NewToIt

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 64
  • OWF Brand: Wood Doctor
  • OWF Model: XL (14,000 sq. ft.)
    • View Profile
Re: hardy boil overs
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2010, 12:10:43 PM »
Hi.  It has to be getting too much air from somewhere if it is getting too hot with fan not running.  Are you sure the damper is closing enough when fan not running.... since you already replaced the door seal?
Logged
Not so "NewToIt" anymore..... up and running for 3 yrs. now!!

yoderheating

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 833
    • View Profile
Re: hardy boil overs
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2010, 07:43:44 PM »
 Defiantly getting air when it shouldn't be. I have had problems with dampers not completely closing, an 1/8inch crack will cause problems on a warm day.
Logged
Southwest Virginia
WF4000 Heat Master

NC4AB

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 26
    • View Profile
    • Brinkley Electronics
Re: hardy boil overs
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2010, 06:24:14 AM »
Areas to check are the fan damper and the flap at the rear of the stove.  Either one can cause an air leak. 

My guess is that you are filling the stove full and have very little heating load this time of year.

Try only filling the stove half full and this will help the boil overs until we get some colder weather.
Logged
Andy
--------------------------------------------
Hardy H2 (1987)
Stihl 011
Stihl 028
Stihl 039

dwight99

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9
    • View Profile
Re: hardy boil overs
« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2010, 08:27:00 AM »
When I had a hardymine would boil over on warm days I ended up taking hvac tape and sealing the opening around theclean out door  opening that solved my issue!!
Take the back off the store hold a cigarette around that clean out and around the fan flapper watch where the smoke goes!!
Logged

NC4AB

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 26
    • View Profile
    • Brinkley Electronics
Re: hardy boil overs
« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2010, 06:26:04 AM »
Got to thinking that the boil over you are seeing could actually be the Temperature and Pressured Relief Valve on the domestic hot water opening up.  Mine does that when the water gets ~195 and no one is using any hot water in the house.  Once the weather turns cold I don't have any problems with it opening up.
Logged
Andy
--------------------------------------------
Hardy H2 (1987)
Stihl 011
Stihl 028
Stihl 039

dumbodog00

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 81
    • View Profile
Re: hardy boil overs
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2010, 02:39:01 PM »
I don't know why the temp. relief valve would be opening.  The stove is set to stop the fan when the water temp. is 175 or 180 I believe.  Therefore the domestic water should be no warmer than that unless the water temp. is higher than that.   
As someone else sad, I would check the clean out flap that goes into the bottom of the ashpan.  My silicone seal failed on mine and was allowing too much air in there.  As was also said, check to make sure the flap on the fan if completely closing to for a seal.  If not, take a flat head screwdriver and open up the chain links enough to give it some slack.
Logged