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Messages - T28c34

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1
Central Boiler / Re: Loosing water mystery SOLVED!
« on: December 13, 2018, 08:52:52 PM »
Hey RSI, thanks!
I was thinking of trying that, glad to hear that works.

2
Central Boiler / Re: Loosing water mystery SOLVED!
« on: December 12, 2018, 05:39:42 AM »
Yes Roger, I plan on doing a more extensive repair and inspection of the fire box this summer. From looking things over after after my repair, I looks like I should have no problems the rest of the season. The only bad looking area that I could see is that front left side about 3 inches in from top to bottom. I need to research how to remove the black creosote, tar, glaze and such from the inside. So if anyone has any idea besides elbow grease and a wire brush let me know.

3
Central Boiler / Re: Loosing water mystery
« on: December 11, 2018, 09:16:24 PM »
Found it! The leak got worse overnight. Since the temp was 34 degrees today I thought I better take advantage of the weather. While cleaning out the coals and ash, I found an area on the left corner, up front full of heavily streaming muddy ash/coals. Tracked it down to the left side about half way up and two inches in the fire box. I started scraping the corner out, and I could see where the water was weeping out. kind of picked at it with the corner of the scraper and there she blows. So I drained the water down and set up to weld it. I'm a better gas welder than MiG or arc welding. but I was out of oxygen. I was going to cut a patch to go a large area but the area from the front of the fire box to about 3 inches back and from top to bottom is kind of warped and wavy. I didn't think a patch would work.
So i started to MiG weld the area, I know it would happen, and was ready for it. The hole opend up to the size of a quarter. I filled the area with weld and started filling. After a few tries and still leaking I had to switch to gas wending because I'm better at that. I should of went with that the first time. I beet up the area up and down the front corner. I didn't punch though anywhere. after inspecting the other side, and the entire firebox, I did not see an other areas that looked like that front left corner. Four hours latter we are up and running again.
Over the summer I think I am going to Clean that front area about 4 inches out and weld in a plate over it all. After all this, I still love my Central boiler.

4
Central Boiler / Re: Loosing water mystery
« on: December 10, 2018, 06:59:31 PM »
Thanks for the input. Its going to be a few days before I have time to look into it. That will give me some time to look into how to pull the refractory block. being 6 years old, should I be looking at going ahead and replacing the blocks? When cleaning at the end of the season, I don't see any problems with it. But when I pull it, will they come out with somewhat ease? or will it be in pieces? Like to have any parts on hand so I can get back in operation as soon as possible.

5
Central Boiler / Re: Loosing water mystery
« on: December 10, 2018, 08:51:36 AM »
Mystery half solved ! I was loading and cleaning out the ash pit and noticed a lot of steam. Took a look inside and have a pretty steady drip coming down from the refractory brick. Great, have to turn on the propane and for the house and shop to take care of this. Any ideas on where to start looking once cooled down?

6
Central Boiler / Loosing water mystery SOLVED!
« on: December 09, 2018, 10:25:52 PM »
Our E Classic is 6 years old this year. Never had problems with it until this season. I take care of my baby by cleaning it inside and out after every season. Checking and cleaning the air elbows and lubing the solenoids. I've never had to add water till this season. The water level was at the full line in the beginning this season. now every week I need to add water. There is no signs water leaking from the outside anywhere. I have noticed that I am getting great burn times as long as 16-18 hours. weather has been highs in the low 30s and lows in the upper 20s. also noticed that the reaction chamber is higher than I have seen the past. Its getting as high as 1.40 and water temp of 185. I since replaced the fire box door seal, that was in bad shape. Tested and lubed the solenoids all we around 22 ohms. I set up to add water from in the house. when i am filling, i can hear and see gurgling and boiling water and stream coming of the vent tube. When it gets full the boiling stops, but next thing you know, the water level is down a noticeable amount. Within a few days its way down and have to add again.
Any ideas?

7
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 08, 2016, 08:11:23 AM »
Yes I like that idea of having a valve in between the side arm and water heater on the domestic side. I could then close that and purge. I can open the domestic side at the pressure relief valve to purge air out of the system. I did do that the other night and had a lot air come out. As nice as its been here in northern Illinois, I just might shut things down and put in that valve to clean out the sidearm.

8
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 05, 2016, 07:28:12 PM »
Willieg,
The installer had me tap into the water heater for the supply from the side where the pressure relief valve is at. I see what you are saying if it were hooked directly to the cold line. If it were hooked up that way directly,would there be enough time to heat the water as it goes though under house pressure. But being where its at on the side, when the water is turned on, flow is coming in the cold input of the water heater and not directly though the input of the side arm. and the outflow of house water is coming out of the hot side of the water heater. So water heated by the boiler is just siphoning through as water is used?
I hope this all makes sense, because I'm confusing myself.

9
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 05, 2016, 06:51:12 PM »
Well the wife just came out of the bathroom very disgruntled, she stepped into a ice cold tub. The pilot when out on the water heater again. That's a whole different problem of why that goes out every now and then. As far as the incoming boiler water entering the exchanger, the book shows it entering the bottom. I did just open up the drain valve on the bottom that comes out on the right side (see previous pictures) It did sputter a bit like it was clearing out. I didn't notice if anything was coming out, you can see in the picture I was using a dirty bucket to begin with (duh). In studying the set up, I really have to cut things apart to be able to clean out the bottom of the exchanger tube.
So if I understand things, With this setup, you still need the gas operating to keep the water holding in the tank hot. If I wanted to take the using gas out of the system, I have to totally bypass the water heater at input of the water heater and directly into the heat exchanger. out the bottom and right to the mixing valve to the house. That about right?

10
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 03, 2016, 07:54:27 PM »
The exchanger is the tube type from central boiler. Basically a one inch pipe carrying the water heater water, with a larger pipe around it as a casing carrying the boiler water.
Hope the pictures come out

11
Central Boiler / Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 02, 2016, 07:16:44 PM »
We have been using our system for four years with no problems at all. We do have the water to water heat exchanger installed on our water heater as per the Central boiler instructions as well as the installers instructions. The pilot light has been going out on the water heater for some reason. Why is it when the pilot light goes out, we have no hot water during the heating season? we do feel a difference in the water temperature being hotter when the system is up and running.
It is set up with the water heater side of the exchanger connecting to the output on the side of the water heater for the pressure relief valve and a tee extending out to re install the relief valve. The bottom end of the exchanger connects into the bottom of the water heater. On the boiler side, hot comes in to the top of the exchanger, then out the bottom of it and off to the furnace. The outside of the exchanger gets plenty hot.
How is water from the water heater forced though the exchanger, and out as needed? When the pilot is out, we don't get any hot water.
I would have thought you would put in a valve and cold water line to the input side of the exchanger and the output in the bottom of the water heater. With a shut off valve on the cold going into the water heater you can then shut if off and heat solely off the boiler heat exchanger.
Am I right?

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