I modified the drawing to show a series primary/secondary loop rather than the parallel that I had originally drawn per the recommendations. Drawing attached. Does anybody see any problems with this layout?
I am still struggling to envision how I can use one outdoor reset to control the water temp for 2 different radiant heat zones.
The outdoor reset that I have seen in the past is one from Viega. Attached picture.
Thanks
That primary/secondary loop design looks much better.
However see below...
First off, I apologize for not going over your first post a bit closer.
Now, as for the outside reset, I think you may want to reconsider using it at all. You may be far more happy if you use thermostatic mixing valves for your concrete loops, instead of trying to turn your OWB down so low as to have cool enough water for your loops. You will get a couple of major problems if you try to operate your OWB at such low temps, 80-120* depending on the BTU/sq. ft. you are aiming for.
Firstly, flue gas condensation (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flue-gas_condensation ). Also check out idronics 10, page 8. One of the primary functions of the new gasification OWBs (your G200 is one) is to burn extremely HOT so as to fully and efficiently combust all the hydrocarbons possible. This is counter in theory to running the stove in a setback or turndown, from a reset. Reference idronics 7 p.9-10 & fig 3-5. This has even caused a bit of a paradigm shift in OWB use in general, With regular non-gasification stoves, you could damper down, and let the stove smolder away when everything was up to temp and no major BTUs were required. Since gasification stoves don't operate in the same turndown capable way, that smoldering style has given way to quick batch burn, and best when thermal storage is used. This is something you may consider implementing to replace the out door reset/turndown problem. The addition of a thermal storage tank will allow you to load up the G200, do an efficient, hot burn, and store all those BTUs in a tank. Reference idronics 10, p.28 fig. 6-12
Secondly, being that you may be unable to turn down the G200 far enough to have cool enough water for the loops, they will end up overshooting your BTU/sq. ft. target. In addition, trying to run your stove so low will make the forced air, radiator, and hot water generation systems extremely inefficient. All of those like the, "hotter is better" for water temperature.
So..... to remedy these issues is probably going to be somewhat expensive.
Being that you are a Caleffi fan (as am I), they offer some storage tanks with the Thermocon line:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-NAS20120-119-Gallon-ThermoCon-Storage-Tank-without-Heat-ExchangerNow, you are still stuck with the problem of having a vast quantity of hot water (in the storage tanks), yet needing cooler water for your concrete loops. There are a couple options here:
Adding a motorized mixing valve before each of the circulators for each loop manifold feed is one. Reference idronics 10, p.37 fig. 7-2 (a fairly close system to which you wish to implement). This can be used with a reset control. It's intelligent, as it can respond to changes in your thermal storage temperature (tank may fall from 180*-160* before a new batch burn. It is also one of the more complex ways to go about things (that's usually what I prefer, but I'm a bit of geek, and a glutton for punishment!
)
There is the option of having a thermostatically controlled (maintains output), but using a cartridge style mixing valve, Reference idronics 7, p.19-20 fig. 4-8. This gives a similar ability to react to input temperatures to maintain the set output temperature. This does so without so many of the fun doo-dads. This is what I play to deply for a system expansion this fall. I'm constructing a heated dog kennel for our new dogs, and have a force air heater for the enclosed house part of the kennel, and a single loop for the pad, both inside the house and out on the exposed pad of the kennel. See attached pdf.
This option is fairly reasonable, as the valves are not hugely expensive, and a little more plumbing is all that is required from what you already have.
You could also deploy a complete mixing station, something along the lines of Caleffi 172 series:
https://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/catalogue/manifold-mixing-station-high-efficiency-pump-1725c1ahe Reference idronics 7 p.34 fig. 6-5. You can find them in most any configuration of port numbers you may need.
Sorry to be a bit of a rain cloud, but starting off with a well designed system seems to be better than trying to come in and modify something you may not be happy with.