Print

[cooch]

After four years it seems as though the rope is leaking air even after door latch adjustments and frequent creosote cleaning. Just wondering if anyone has tips or advice on changing the rope on a CB5036. It looks basic but some jobs are deceiving. I plan on removing the old, wire wheel clean, clean with brake cleaner, apply high temp silicone adhesive, and press in new rope. sounds simple, probaly take all day to remove the old.

[HandyMark]

I have not had my 5036 long enough but I did change it out on my indoor wood furnace and it was just as easy as you described. I don't remember it taking more than 30 minutes. I used a cement product made specifically for setting rope gaskets.

[Roger2561]

How did figure out that the door rope was leaking?  Have you fired up the OWB?  What are some of the signs I should look for? 

[Roger2561]

Thanks mark. Roger, last year I found that the owb temp kept rising until I scraped the creosote from the rope and then it seemed to stabilize, but after a while that didn't seem to help either. After adjusting the door it stabilized again, but as the year went on I was scraping the rope and the damper daily to keep the temps from exceeding 200. I don't want to be chasing high temp problems this year so I am going to change the rope. Hopefully that cures the problem for four more years. If that is all it takes I will do it every four years. It is not fun knowing the boiler might boil over just from an air leak, but that is all it takes. Never forget to close the door.

My eclassic 1400 is only a year old so I shouldn't have to worry for a bit longer.  PLus, CB installed a safety measure where if the temp goes over 200, it will shut off until the temp lowers below 200 and then it will start up again.  Essentially to protect the OWB and pex tubing from damage.  If I'm near by an dit happens, I raise the thermostats in the house to increase the heat load and expediting the decrease in water temp.

[boilerman]

Cooch, it is a verfy simple process. Replaced 1 in my Classic 5648 just one time. Used a utility knife and a putty knife. Just find the rope seam, pry it out, grab the end and pull. The whole rope should come out in one piece. Scrape out the old crusty caulk, lay down a new bead and loosely press in new door rope. Don't pull or stretch it while putting it in, especially around the corners. Pay attention to where the original seam was, I can't remember if it was on the bottom or left side. I then left the door open for about 1/2 an hour before closing it. Then left it closed for another hour before reopening door. Gave me a great new seal and set. Pretty easy and quick change out.

[HandyMark]

The instructions on the bottle of rope sealant suggest closing the door with a sheet of newspaper in the door to keep the gasket pressed in yet prevent the gasket from sticking to the door jamb.

[Scott7m]

Something you can try is placing your rope in the grove with silicone as you normally would, then apply a layer of silicone across the entire rope gasket, covering it completely.  It makes a silicone seal with the rope still there giving it some rigidity.  Does it seal better than rope?  Seems to be Great, one thing it does do is keep creosote away from the rope itself and makes them last a lot longer.

[Roger2561]

Something you can try is placing your room in the grove with silicone as you normally would, then apply a layer of silicone across the entire rope gasket, covering it completely.  It makes a silicone seal with the rope still there giving it some rigidity.  Does it seal better than rope?  Seems to be Great, one thing it does do is keep creosote away from the rope itself and makes them last s lot longer.

Scott - What a great tip!  I'll have to keep it in mind for when I need to change mine on the CB E-classic 1400

[boilerman]

I don't know Roger, your and my Eclassics don't use conventional door rope seals. They have a preformed soft silicone seal for a positive air tight seal. That method may be too rigid for our Eclassic gasser models and we may not get the air tight seal we need.

[Scott7m]

All of the empyre gassers make there door seals hoe I mentioned, they say they make a better seal and protect the rope from the hardening affects of creosote, so far I've found that all to be true

[tjdobbs]

I changed mine with the fire burning.  When I change the gasket next time, I will remove the door and lay it flat.  The burning fire, the warm door and the smoke made for a messy job.  The next door rope will be caulked in during the off season.

[gsilus]

My E2300 (circa 2009) does NOT use rope for the front door seal, rather it uses a one piece heat resistant rubber type gasket, part #2500027.  The part # for the door gasket of a e1400 or e1450 is 2500028.  So, if you have a gasser style 'e' series Central Boiler and you replace the door seal with a rope gasket, you may be in for undesired results, like a lot of blow-by.  I know the part number for these CB gasser models because I just replaced mine and I have the OEM replacement directions in front of me right now, BTW those directions P/N for either type gasket is #9000058, which comes with either gasket kit.  Hope this helps with the gasket changing for a CB gasser model.

[Roger2561]

My E2300 (circa 2009) does NOT use rope for the front door seal, rather it uses a one piece heat resistant rubber type gasket, part #2500027.  The part # for the door gasket of a e1400 or e1450 is 2500028.  So, if you have a gasser style 'e' series Central Boiler and you replace the door seal with a rope gasket, you may be in for undesired results, like a lot of blow-by.  I know the part number for these CB gasser models because I just replaced mine and I have the OEM replacement directions in front of me right now, BTW those directions P/N for either type gasket is #9000058, which comes with either gasket kit.  Hope this helps with the gasket changing for a CB gasser model.

gsilus - Thanks for the tip and part number for the rope gasket to my eclassic 1400.  This is my 3rd season heating with it so I don't think I need to worry about changing the rope gasket just yet.  However, I'm starting to get parts on hand for the just in case scenario.  I have the new blower motor.  Next to purchase will be the replacement cartridge for the Taco 009-F5 pump then new rope gaskets for the fire door, by-pass door and reaction chamber door, and then new primary and secondary air solenoids.  Not necessarily in that order.  Merry Christmas!  Roger 

[slimjim]

High temp silicone works great which is why we now use silicone coated gaskets in all of our units, much better seal and should outlast rope alone by many years