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Tennessee Outdoor Furnaces / Re: hoss owners
« on: January 08, 2015, 02:00:29 PM »
Hey there. I am on my second year with my 300HE. I haven't had any trouble out of the unit what so ever. In the spring, I summerize it by cleaning the fire box out completely and vacuuming it out. Ash + water (humidity) = rust. I use a welding chip hammer to get any creosote out also. I also top off the water until it comes out the overflow. Air in the water jacket = rust, so fill it up with the water.
I did a lot of research on outdoor furances. With all out there, I chose the TOF due to how rugged it is and how user friendly the controls are. Simplicity is my friend. So much so, I became a Kentucky Dealer Rep to get them around the area. Since, I have made 1 sale.
I have had other customers call me for technical help on their install. I didn't mind at all. It seems that it is hard to get a hold of Terry sometimes, so this individual called me.
Feel free to give me a call anytime.
Jim
(502) 767-3944
I did a lot of research on outdoor furances. With all out there, I chose the TOF due to how rugged it is and how user friendly the controls are. Simplicity is my friend. So much so, I became a Kentucky Dealer Rep to get them around the area. Since, I have made 1 sale.
I have had other customers call me for technical help on their install. I didn't mind at all. It seems that it is hard to get a hold of Terry sometimes, so this individual called me.
Feel free to give me a call anytime.
Jim
(502) 767-3944
2
Electronics / Re: Zone Valve wiring for a bypass
« on: March 11, 2014, 08:29:54 AM »
Sorry it's been a few days since I posted. Thank you all for providing feedback.
I think I have it figured out. Attached is a schematic of the installation. I am not trying to control the water flow to the attic unit, just shut it off and allow the water to circulate back to the OWF.
The customer has an attic unit that is equiped with a drain pan, condensate pump and shut-off switch. In the event of water in the pan, the switch will shut the unit down and keep from flooding the lower 3 levels of the house. He has requested the same with this install.
I have found a Wet Switch flood detector that will control valves or a furnace in the event of moisture in a pan or on the floor. This swich will allow me to stop the water to the unit in the basement and keep from pumping out 20gpm water into the house. The switch will control (2) NC and (1) NO zone valves that will immediately shut the water flow to the attic and open the bypass to allow the water to keep circulating for the other systems. This will allow repairs to be made and not shut down heating to the remaining house.
This will also allow the use of the basement furnace in the event of an electrical outage due to the normal state of "bypass" without control power. The generator will provide blower power and the circulation pump at the OWF.
Thanks to all for looking at this thread and providing helpful feedback.
Jim
Bedford, KY
I think I have it figured out. Attached is a schematic of the installation. I am not trying to control the water flow to the attic unit, just shut it off and allow the water to circulate back to the OWF.
The customer has an attic unit that is equiped with a drain pan, condensate pump and shut-off switch. In the event of water in the pan, the switch will shut the unit down and keep from flooding the lower 3 levels of the house. He has requested the same with this install.
I have found a Wet Switch flood detector that will control valves or a furnace in the event of moisture in a pan or on the floor. This swich will allow me to stop the water to the unit in the basement and keep from pumping out 20gpm water into the house. The switch will control (2) NC and (1) NO zone valves that will immediately shut the water flow to the attic and open the bypass to allow the water to keep circulating for the other systems. This will allow repairs to be made and not shut down heating to the remaining house.
This will also allow the use of the basement furnace in the event of an electrical outage due to the normal state of "bypass" without control power. The generator will provide blower power and the circulation pump at the OWF.
Thanks to all for looking at this thread and providing helpful feedback.
Jim
Bedford, KY
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Generator backup and sizing?
« on: March 06, 2014, 02:08:02 PM »
I have a 5500w Genrac for the house and a 1750 coleman for the OWF. But I currently have the 5500 supplying the OWF through the transfer switch. For long-term, I plan to run the OWF on the 1750 since it uses less fuel and will run all the time. The 5500w can be shut off when not needed, I run it about 1 hour every 12 to keep the fridge and freezer cold. I just got a DPDT switch for the furnace blower which is 240v. Once installed, I will be able to run it off of the 5500.
Jim
KY
Jim
KY
4
Electronics / Zone Valve wiring for a bypass
« on: March 06, 2014, 09:19:51 AM »
I am helping a friend with his TOF install. He has a second unit in his attic that we will be supplying with hot water from the outdoor furnace. He has a drain pan, pump and switch under the unit to shut it down in the event of water in the tray. We want to install Taco Zone Valves (24v) in the basement that will shut off the water to/from the attic unit and open a bypass to allow the water to flow back to the outdoor furance. If the water switch shuts off the unit it will close the supply/return and open the bypass. I will be installing 2 NC valves on the supply/return and 1 NO on the bypass. This will also control the valves in the event of a power outage and allow the outdoor furnace and the downstair unit to run with a generator.
I know I need the valves, a 24v power supply to power the valves and some sort of relay that will take a dry contact from the switch and will open/close the appropriate valves. I like the Taco 1" Zone Sentry Valves for this application.
Now for my questions. Has anyone done this? What type of relay do I need (icecube or others)? Can you provide a wiring schematic for the relay configuration and a spec for the relay. I am very proficient in wiring and plumbing, but this is the only piece I am scratching my head about.
Thanks for any help,
Jim
KY
I know I need the valves, a 24v power supply to power the valves and some sort of relay that will take a dry contact from the switch and will open/close the appropriate valves. I like the Taco 1" Zone Sentry Valves for this application.
Now for my questions. Has anyone done this? What type of relay do I need (icecube or others)? Can you provide a wiring schematic for the relay configuration and a spec for the relay. I am very proficient in wiring and plumbing, but this is the only piece I am scratching my head about.
Thanks for any help,
Jim
KY
5
Tennessee Outdoor Furnaces / Re: We have FIRE!
« on: November 19, 2013, 06:51:33 PM »
Thanks. I have more wood where that came from. The pad will hold 4 cords and there is more on it now since I took the picture. About 2.5 cords + the 14yo has a big pile to split up. The split you see is one cord. I have trees down from summer bull dozing just itching to get cut up.
(Ginndt) I do have it hooked to DHW and let me tell you, the showers are great! I have a 80 gal WH and it really hasn't been a problem in the past. Good piece of mind that the 14year old won't run me out of hot water. You'll have to stop by to see it one day.
(Ginndt) I do have it hooked to DHW and let me tell you, the showers are great! I have a 80 gal WH and it really hasn't been a problem in the past. Good piece of mind that the 14year old won't run me out of hot water. You'll have to stop by to see it one day.
6
Tennessee Outdoor Furnaces / Re: We have FIRE!
« on: November 19, 2013, 05:18:30 PM »
The Hoss 300HE indeed has two exhaust ports just above the grate in the rear of the fire box. This allows the off gasses to accumulate in the top of the firebox, which is re burned making even more heat. While this might not be "modern" gasification, it does the job. I watched this process tonight and it is mesmerizing to watch. The exhaust ports are also routed thru the water box allowing more heat to be absorbed by the water. And what Michael said. (Thanks)
I really like this furnace. It is no frills and it's not pretty, kinda like me. It looks good in the back yard too. The simplicity of its construction and the heft it has we're major selling points for me. I have designed everything from glass lined reactors, pressure vessels to heat exchangers and the like in my career, TOF met my expectations of how a furnace should be built.
Jim
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
I really like this furnace. It is no frills and it's not pretty, kinda like me. It looks good in the back yard too. The simplicity of its construction and the heft it has we're major selling points for me. I have designed everything from glass lined reactors, pressure vessels to heat exchangers and the like in my career, TOF met my expectations of how a furnace should be built.
Jim
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
7
Tennessee Outdoor Furnaces / We have FIRE!
« on: November 19, 2013, 09:46:19 AM »
It's been a long process but finally we are heating with fire. The guys at TOF are great and the furnace is Awsome.
Jim
Jim
8
Electronics / Re: HVAC QUESTION
« on: January 24, 2013, 01:12:29 PM »
jb1978, I have a water source heat pump (geothermal) with a 4 zone damper system similar to as you described. I am in the research stages of purchasing an outdoor wood furnace to add a heat exchanger in my duct. I have been studying my wiring diagrams and the zone system to determine best way to achieve what we need. As of right now, I do not have a clear answer. Sorry. but when I do, I will be glad to share it on this site for anyone.
Can you tell me the model of the zone control board (Carrier, I assume)? Honeywell makes the boards and if I fry mine again, I will change out to one of them. I've had lightening take mine out 4 times. I'm getting pretty good at soldiering components on the board and it working. This issue should not be a big deal.
Jim
Can you tell me the model of the zone control board (Carrier, I assume)? Honeywell makes the boards and if I fry mine again, I will change out to one of them. I've had lightening take mine out 4 times. I'm getting pretty good at soldiering components on the board and it working. This issue should not be a big deal.
Jim
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