This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

106

Central Boiler / Re: Happy or not?????

« on: January 24, 2009, 08:13:05 AM »

Faulkner, where in WV are ya?  I'm near Ripley.   

I cut my trees around the meadows here on the farm, and drag them to a central place easily accesible with the truck, trailer, splitter, etc.  (This is all hillside farms around this area, so ya can't be too picky about where ya drag them to,, just as long as they don't roll away.)   I get them all drug out,,,,,,, then start cutting.  Once they are cut, I get the splitter started and don't stop til they are all split.  Then I haul to the shed.  I used to drag them out by the shed to do it all, but I had a mess to clean up, and then had to carry it the rest of the way to the shed to stack it.  Now I load the trailer, and can back it in the shed and stack it as I unload it.  Pull the trailer forward and keep unloading. 

This year, I had 26 trees down when I started.  5 days later, it was all cut, split, and stacked in the shed.  7.4 cords.  It was a LONG 5 DAYS!! by myself.   My wife was out of town that week,,,, usually she is right there with me.  Hooking up the chain,, running the splitter,,, stacking wood,,,etc.  (good woman)

This years goal is to build a splitter instead of renting one.     Any ideas or suggestions on building log splitters??

107

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water loss from STEAMING

« on: January 23, 2009, 01:40:48 PM »

I just checked some temperatures with an infra-red heat gun.  I'm not sure how accurate it is, but it seems within a couple degrees on known temperatures.  I checked the  Taco pump, and it was reading 189*, and the side of my water tank near my aquastat well was 192*  My Honeywell aquastat is set to kick off at 185*, and my temp gauge is reading 190*.   Apparently, my temperature gauge is pretty accurate.   All temps are relatively close.  I really don't think I have an overheating situation, but  it might not hurt to lower the temp on my aquastat a little regardless.   It has steamed very little today, as we are having temps around 50.   

I will try a few things tomorrow with the vent pipe.  I will let ya know the results.   Again,,,,,, I appreciate everyone's help.

Mark

108

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water loss from STEAMING

« on: January 23, 2009, 11:54:12 AM »

The "open" port on the SIDE is CAPPED, just in case I needed it later.  I run my water level about 7 inches above the height of that port.  If I cap the vent on top, and extend the unused side port out and 90* up 7 or 8  inches, can I use it as a vent, or will it just keep pushing the water out until it gets down 7" to the level of that port?  Your lower right picture shows the vent pipe BELOW the water level.  Does it push water out as it heats, or is the level in the 90* with the water at it's hottest??

ALSO..... I just got to thinking, when I first filled it, I filled it to my fill level COLD, and once it got hot, it spilled out 3 or 4 gallons.  So, I am assuming it was totally full at first being fired.  It never steamed for almost 2 months.  I first thought the steam was just the temperature difference between the water in the stove, and the outside air temperature, as the weather started getting colder.  In the past 3 or 4 weeks, I noticed an ice accumulation on the ground under the vent.  That is when I noticed the water level starting to go down rapidly.

I know the fix is probably a simple one, and I'm happy with the stove otherwise.   I have used exactly 3 cords from Oct. 23rd.  to Jan. 23rd. It was oak and hickory mixed, and not seasoned well.  I am heating a 1680 sq. ft. house and 1200 sq. ft. of a garage (both new, and well insulated)   Let me know your ideas, and I will be trying SOMETHING tomorrow.

THANKS!!

109

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water loss from STEAMING

« on: January 22, 2009, 07:52:19 PM »

I appreciate everyones help in this.  I am going to try to get a better idea of just what my max temperature really is.  Maybe an infrared temp. gun???  I'm not sure what is available that will be more accurate.  I do alot of work on cars, and find a big variation in temperature gauges for automotive use,,, some as much as 10 - 15 degrees.   Plus, they have to be deep enough into the water to have circulation for accuracy.  I will try turning the temp down first, and see if this reduces the steam.  Has anyone used the temp gauges like the Taylors use?? 

ckbetz:    I have 2 Taco pumps on my OWB.  One for the house, and one for the garage/shop.  I have them both running 24/7.  I thought maybe I didn't have it insulated enough, but it never melts the snow off the roof, except by the vent pipe.   I have a large accumulation of ice under it where it drips.  I am using figerglass insulation,,, 6" under, 12" on the sides, and 18" in the top.  I would be interested to see pics of any vent systems you all might have.  At 4 or 5 gallons a day, plus chemical treatment, this is getting old real fast. 

Ron, is your vent straight out the top of your stove?  I have a 1/2" pipe nipple welded in the top of mine.  Easily adapted to 1 1/4" to use the cap you described. 

Thanks for everyone's input.  I will post results of the things I try.

Mark

110

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water loss from STEAMING

« on: January 22, 2009, 03:23:23 PM »

I am using a Honewell Aquastat and have it set to come on at 170 and off at 185.  It had been at 160 - 175 until last week when we were having temps in the negatives.  I have an automotive temperature gauge on the stove, and it is reading @ 195, but I wasn't sure how accurate the temp ga. was.  I had assumed the aquastat would be more accurate.  Maybe a bad assumption on my part.   As for the vent pipe, it is 1/2" steel pipe coming out the top and turning 90*, and exiting the side of the stove just under the roof.  I see where the cap and 1/4" copper might help.  What size vent pipe are you using on yours??  I can increase the size of the steel pipe if I need to to accomodate the cap and copper tubing.  Would it be better if the vent exited straight up instead of out the side??  I'm losing about 4 gallons a day.  I'm open to any and all suggestions.  Your help is really appreciated,,,,,,,, THANKS

111

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Water loss from STEAMING

« on: January 22, 2009, 07:49:53 AM »

I built my own OWB, and I'm really happy with it so far, except:  My biggest problem is having to add water from STEAMING.  Seems that steaming a couple months ago wasn't too bad, and I rarely had to add water, but with the colder weather, and the stove heating more often, the steam never stops.  I saw a post from mid-November that mentioned this same problem on a Shaver, and he suggested extending the vent pipe out further and using a 90* to turn it up a bit and filling a little more water.  My vent is out the top, so that won't work for me.  I DO have an unused fitting on the side that is about 7 inches below the water level that I like to maintain.  If I pipe this out the side of the covering of the stove and 90* it up a few inches, will this work, or will it just push the water out the 90* as it heats??  This one has me stumped, and I'm really tired of adding water every couple days. 

I'm new at this and looking for HELP!!!!   

112

Plumbing / Re: Home-made Hot Water Tank Tube Heat Syphon

« on: January 20, 2009, 09:27:51 AM »

I had considered making my own side arm heater, but was under the impression that it had to be made entirely of copper.  I do have plenty of 1 1/2" brass tubing I had thought of using for the outside tube, and use copper for the inside.   The brass is very similiar in size to copper tubing, which means I can buy copper "T"s to put it together with and it can be soldered easily.  Thanks for the info!!