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1
Plumbing / Cast Iron Radiators
« on: January 07, 2016, 08:59:39 AM »
I just picked up (6) cast iron radiator for my green house.
I'm hoping to keep the G.H. heated to about 50 during our milder N.C. winters.
I've been reviewing the tempering valves but my father-in-law has a bypass and
standard valves to his. What would you reccommend?
He also runs (4) radiators from (1) line in lieu of a manifold and seperate zones with success.
I'm hoping to keep the G.H. heated to about 50 during our milder N.C. winters.
I've been reviewing the tempering valves but my father-in-law has a bypass and
standard valves to his. What would you reccommend?
He also runs (4) radiators from (1) line in lieu of a manifold and seperate zones with success.
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Large Water Volumes
« on: December 10, 2014, 07:39:19 AM »
Who has a stove with a large water volume?
How do you burn your fires?
How do you burn your fires?
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Seperating floor heat form central air
« on: November 12, 2014, 07:29:54 AM »
Currently my system is ran through a large loop with (2) hvac units then into the floor.
I'd like to seperate my floor heat from my HVAC units. I have (4) lines running into the house.
(2) going to and from the HVAC/Floor system and (2) going to my DHW.
Could I seperate the floor, run a loop for the DHW with heat exchanger and run my floor from that "zone"?
Let me know if info is needed.
I'd like to seperate my floor heat from my HVAC units. I have (4) lines running into the house.
(2) going to and from the HVAC/Floor system and (2) going to my DHW.
Could I seperate the floor, run a loop for the DHW with heat exchanger and run my floor from that "zone"?
Let me know if info is needed.
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Solar Panels and Stove Heat
« on: October 16, 2013, 11:47:33 AM »
I know this is a total different principal but I've never asked this questions specifically.
I have solar panels hooked to my stove. During the off season I gain heat for my water
through these panels to heat my water. My stove gets up to 160 degrees but on average is
around 140 or so. Does this help or hurt my stove? I would assume that I'm not burning wood
and shouldn't have a problem, just checking.
I have solar panels hooked to my stove. During the off season I gain heat for my water
through these panels to heat my water. My stove gets up to 160 degrees but on average is
around 140 or so. Does this help or hurt my stove? I would assume that I'm not burning wood
and shouldn't have a problem, just checking.
5
Plumbing / Line Question
« on: February 18, 2013, 02:09:01 PM »
I'm looking at replacing my 20+ year old lines and wonder about the current setups.
Currently I have (2) sets of lines coming into my house hot and cold for the HVAC and
hot and cold for the water.
Would it be better to install the hot lines with hot and cold with cold?
I know there is some insulation with the lines but it's hard for me to believe
1" or 1 Wrap of insulation doesn't transfer heat/cold.
Currently I have (2) sets of lines coming into my house hot and cold for the HVAC and
hot and cold for the water.
Would it be better to install the hot lines with hot and cold with cold?
I know there is some insulation with the lines but it's hard for me to believe
1" or 1 Wrap of insulation doesn't transfer heat/cold.
6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Replace Lines or Not
« on: January 08, 2013, 11:04:02 AM »
I've been thinking about replacing lines on my house.
My father in law had a plumber friend install his lines 20+ years back when the house was built.
From what I understand the lines are wrapped with the silver foil insulation and only have a
single wrap between incoming and outgoing. If I measure the temp coming into the house (20+ degrees lower than stove)
its almost the same as the temp close to the stove exiting. The penetration is roughly
3' below ground. He said he also had to dig down a few months after the install to grout
and fill the area around the pipe due to incoming water.
He is a very smart fella and said the water was entering the pipe and coming through that way.
Would it wise to install a new pipe?
My father in law had a plumber friend install his lines 20+ years back when the house was built.
From what I understand the lines are wrapped with the silver foil insulation and only have a
single wrap between incoming and outgoing. If I measure the temp coming into the house (20+ degrees lower than stove)
its almost the same as the temp close to the stove exiting. The penetration is roughly
3' below ground. He said he also had to dig down a few months after the install to grout
and fill the area around the pipe due to incoming water.
He is a very smart fella and said the water was entering the pipe and coming through that way.
Would it wise to install a new pipe?
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Firebox Condensation
« on: January 07, 2013, 08:40:05 AM »
I just have a general question about temperatures and maybe the styles of stove that
may increase chances of firebox condensation.
The type of stove I run is a Pre-Gasser version, it has a 3/16" thick firebox and has
a water jacket that surrounds it. It has a blower and (6) 4" tubes that run from the
firebox to the back box approximately 3' long each.
Is the condensation issue only to be worried about with the gasser models or all stoves.
The only reason I ask is my father has the same type and brand but a smaller version.
He has been running his 25yrs with no problems other than the bottom of the back box rusting out.
He runs his up to full temp once at night 180-190 then doesn't fill it again till the next night.
His temperature is back down to 100-120 and has never had a problem with the box rusting.
I never let my stove get below 160 but it seams odd hes never had a problem.
may increase chances of firebox condensation.
The type of stove I run is a Pre-Gasser version, it has a 3/16" thick firebox and has
a water jacket that surrounds it. It has a blower and (6) 4" tubes that run from the
firebox to the back box approximately 3' long each.
Is the condensation issue only to be worried about with the gasser models or all stoves.
The only reason I ask is my father has the same type and brand but a smaller version.
He has been running his 25yrs with no problems other than the bottom of the back box rusting out.
He runs his up to full temp once at night 180-190 then doesn't fill it again till the next night.
His temperature is back down to 100-120 and has never had a problem with the box rusting.
I never let my stove get below 160 but it seams odd hes never had a problem.
9
Electronics / Mechanical Timer for Blower
« on: November 06, 2012, 07:18:06 AM »
I just bought a new Hicks water stove and the blower is controlled by a Honeywell Aquastat.
The type of stove I bought is a little different than the brands represented on this site.
It's an in shed type OWB with a 600 Gallon capacity (after firebox).
I would like to setup a timer so I can load wood, set the timer and
walk away.
My current setup allows for heating a large capacity of water then using it overnight.
After 12hrs the wood is burnt and the fan is blowing on coals cooling the firebox & water.
What type of mechanical timer would you recommend?
The type of stove I bought is a little different than the brands represented on this site.
It's an in shed type OWB with a 600 Gallon capacity (after firebox).
I would like to setup a timer so I can load wood, set the timer and
walk away.
My current setup allows for heating a large capacity of water then using it overnight.
After 12hrs the wood is burnt and the fan is blowing on coals cooling the firebox & water.
What type of mechanical timer would you recommend?
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