Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - baldwin racing

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Fire Box Tools For Your OWB
« on: March 11, 2014, 05:56:38 PM »
Well I have a question for everyone about the tools they use to move the ashes around, stove pokers or whatever you call them. I currently use a long steel rod to adjust the wood and poke the ashes to help them settle. I also use a shovel to adjust the ashes which I realize will not last long with a wooden handle. I use the shovel to move the ashes around. I was thinking of using a rack but then you there's the wooden handle.

I have not done much research online into sites that might sell wood boiler accessories like this. I have friends that have made tools to bring the ashes to the front or to rearrange the ashes. My firebox is is really deep and I tools at home to make something. Is they a site that sells these types of tools or do I need to have one specially made? Any help would be appreciated.

I took a olf flat shovel with broken wooden handle cut a piece of pipe the length I wanted it and welded it where the wooden handle was....I also weld another short piece probly 4-5 inches long at end....so its a t....so you can hang it up as well...... For a scrapper to scrape ashes and coals forward.....I also took a piece of 1/8 plate 3 inches high and 5-6'' wide welded a rod to that as well,I also put two braces one from each corner of plate back to rod for support......I  welded 4-5 inch piece of pipe on the end for a t to hang up as well.... simple and they work well.....if you want pics let me know
Kelly

2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Back on the teet
« on: February 23, 2014, 07:27:13 PM »
Man this sucks! I had a pump fail on Friday. It's covered on warranty. My dealer already had then registered so after a 5 minute phone call it is on it's way. In the mean time, my downstairs level is back on electric! Back to 65 and freezing! Back to keeping shower lengths down.  Wifey is not doing well!

It's a nice, well maybe not nice, but maybe just a good reminder of how awesome wood heat is. It makes us all appreciate what our stove does for this family. Not having to wear long sleeves, socks, house slippers, and blankets all the time. This stove is a huge blessing to my family and these few days are reminding us of that again! It's also a reminder to get a backup pump!  :bash:

If a 15-58 3 speed grundfos will work this company has a good price with free shipping....http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRUNDFOS-UPS15-58FC-115V-BRUTE-3-SPEED-PUMP-59896341-/380720686530?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a4b8a5c2   to buy for a spare as back up.....I always have one just in case.....my father enlaw my 2 neighbors both run 15-58 and we all have spares just incase.... that way we can get one from each other if we don't have a spare.....(forgot to buy one or something)
Kelly

3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Help with ductwork
« on: February 15, 2014, 06:15:10 PM »
You can save yourself a few hundred buck through walmart with free shipping.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shelter-Furnace-SF3042-140-000-BTU-Outdoor-Wood-Coal-Burning-Forced-Air-Furnace/33450920

Thanks for looking bud... but I have a Menards close to me and I have a truck and trailer and a tractor with forks to get it where i need it in the yard. So that would end up being several hundred more.

Pitman if you could put a wood stove in your basement look at Thermo-control (www.nationalstoveworks.com) forced hot air units model 500 is $2500 with 20 year nonprorated warranty I have info and know the owner if you need info...
Kelly

4
We arent far off that really..

Past few nights ive had -15

Windchills have been as low as -45

Right now its 17 and its the warmest its been since tuesday

Snow moving in and they said heading back below zero for several days
yea it not to far off then Scott, We get really cold winds all the time off the st.lawerence river as well like you said -15f with wind chill-45f or greater the day it was -32f wind chill was -60f....my boiler was working that day.....lol
Kelly

5
Im not sure how much ive used.  Been burning since first week of october, those rows are 15-16ft long and i had them stacked around 7ft high

cool video Scott,
You need to bring that boiler up here it give it a try buddy....-32f here the other night and ben -0f and colder every night for the last couple weeks. average lately -15f ...give that baby a real cold test....nice looking unit.... :thumbup:
Kelly

6
Ok getting ready to purchase a owb have it narrowed down to 2 models. Natures comfort 325 g  or the wood boiler llc E4.Beside's the price difference around $1000.00 can anyone who possible has one tell me the major difference pro's and con's on the 2 models.Town appoved me so did the insurance company. Looking to do this in the spring.
Second question would like to add on to my shed add on a wing (extend the length ) to keep this inside  instead of cleaning it out in the cold over the winter months .Would keep this seperate from the shed just sharing one wall and adding on its own doors. I am a builder so this isn't a problem for me. Concrete floor fireproof the common wall. ect ect. Any thought about that idea?

Any input would be a great help Thanks


why not look into a indoor boiler then instead of an out door boiler? the cost will be cheeper for an indoor model www.nationalstoveworks.com builds indoor model boilers that are non insulated or insulated versions....the new model 600 is a gasification stove.these boilers are pressurized units and backed with 20 year non prorated warranty......there are a few more companies making more indoor boilers now a days. like royall and so on.  If interested in a thermo-control let me know I have Tim the owners cell number that way you can talk to him direct.....good luck with your decision and let us know what you end up with........
Kelly

7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Underground lines waterlogged
« on: January 19, 2014, 05:23:43 PM »
I have a brand new system installed in 10-13. I bought an earth rancher 365 and the pre-made pipe from the dealer. I guess earth makes it? It's on there website. Against my better judgement especially when he unloaded this stuff and I saw how cheap it was really made. I dug the ditch myself and back filled with screenings ( just coarser than sand). I had a bad feeling about this but the ditch was dug and project on its way getting colder by the day. So I just wanted to get on with it. Well needless to say my pipe is now full of ground water and efficiency went way south. 3 months of use for $1200 is about how I figured this would happen!!!  The only good thing is this pipe comes into my crawl space first and I can drain it out. I'm sure the screenings aren't helping this matter but I was extra careful installing. Now my insulation is probably trash. The factory of coarse won't even talk to me about it and now I'm just screwed. If I can keep this drained off and meanwhile the ditch settles and lets more rainwater shed away do you think I will manage?  I think I know the answer just hate to hear it. Any other options?  Let this be a lesson to anyone reading thinking about using the cheaper pre made piping. DON'T !

farmer,
sorry to here about this not the same brand but my father enlaw had the same problem last winter, do to really small rocks cut external of pipe...and water filled line and drained in basement......this fall we pick up dro pipe I think it's call its 8 inch hard pipe a light blue with oring sealed.....dug up pipe drained it out and then slid it in the dro pipe works well now with no problems....dro pipe you can get 45 angles also.....maybe something to think about instead of buy complete new pex piping.....I will make shure that's the real name of the pipe it comes in 12 foot sections looks like water pipe that towns put in....real reasonable as well....

kelly

8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Greetings from new forum member
« on: January 14, 2014, 05:55:09 PM »
Just wanted to say hi and introduce myself before I start bombarding the site with questions... 

I'm building a new house this summer without access to natural gas.  Will be buying a Portage & Main and using an LP system as backup.  Forced air throughout the house.  I priced a geothermal system and it was still about $20,000.00 more than an LP system and a P&M.  Can't stomach the thought of paying that much more when I have acres of trees to use to heat with.  I've enjoyed clearing the building site and figure I'll enjoy collecting firewood too.  I plan on getting a semi load of logs delivered in the spring/early summer to ensure I have enough wood, and then learn how much I can collect from the property itself.

I just wanted to welcome you to the site.... welcome to the wood burning family no matter what brand you have we all do the same thing.....burn wood for heat....lol I am shure all of us would like to see some pics when you start the install and keep us posted.....if you need any help shout we are all here to help.... :thumbup:

Kelly

9
I see lots of posts about different application/heating systems and understand that people choose all different system for different reasons ($$$, time, experience, familiarity, location) and was justing interested to see what the mix was.

PLEASE PLEASE if you select "Other" include pictures

I went with water to air exchanger....I had forced hot air oil furnace and had all the duct work already....it was cheeper to just install the exchanger and use what I already had in the house......my shop I did the same thing just used a modine heater.....I also went with a indoor wood boiler, it is a pressurized unit. that way it is a closed system to help keep the elements out of the system. they are priced reasonable than most of the out door boiler as well because you do not need the extra tin for roof and so on to protect it from the weather(nothing against owb I had one before this unit)..... I will also get the conventional heat off boiler as well as the hot water heat that why I went this route...
Kelly
I hope I did this correctly I did vote as well?

10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Placement of Boiler
« on: January 07, 2014, 06:25:33 PM »
Thanks Speed.

The wind comes from the west. I was going to place the back facing the west.  There is a open field that is very windy.
I just thought it would get to much air.  So maybe facing the wind would be better.

if the back is facing west and you don't have a tall pipe its going to be blowing smoke in your face? just a thought...the only time you need to really worry is when your loading it.....with it facing the wind and you have heavy wind and flap open it could suck hot coals up exhaust also....and this will heat up your pipe very fast....I keep my door closed until I am ready to throw a piece in....then close door if I need to get more wood that's out of reach......I have seen my stack temp up to 600-700f when wind forcing in while door open and I am loading....but when I close door the stack limit switch has the damper closed and it cools to temp then opens back up.....this spring my indoor boiler will be in my shop when I add on.....right now its in a little building that's on the old boiler pad.... just some stuff to look into as well...you almost want the wind to blow cross ways or at a angle....
Kelly

11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wood doctor he 5000
« on: January 06, 2014, 06:32:21 PM »
We bought a wood doctor he 5000 at an auction recently. There wasn't any type of owners manual or info with it (normal when buying from an auction).  Got it set up and running with no problems. Now the problem is getting the water temp up.  I've cleaned everything out. It gets up to temp for a short period of time. Everything seems to function right for a couple hours then it cools off and won't warm up. I have to put wood in about every 6 hours.  When it 40 degrees out it works great. At 0 it only heats the shop up to 50. It's a new building that is over insulated. 1800 square feet so the building size isn't the issue.   

At 0 degrees out the water temp in the furnace is only 90. Not sure what's not working or what to change anymore. Does anyone know what to do to get and keep the water temp up?
is the fan working correctly or is it shot and over heating and shutting down? is the sylinoid working good....if it has one?. also is the chimney all clean I have seen it when creosote builds at the top of the pipe because of a cap (with screens) that is plugging off chimney....there for boiler not going to heat up...or keep up to demand? is your wood wet and green? it all takes a toll....just some idea to look into....hope this helps
Kelly

12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Damper door iceing over
« on: January 05, 2014, 07:33:48 PM »
Having big blizzard here in  Indiana everything is shut down all county roads are closed. My problem is my damper door is freezing open and shut from the snow blowing around it so bad. You can't stand to be out there long. I went out there a little while ago it was calling for the fan to kick on and the fan was froze on it, I beat on it a little and it came on but it's going to be a  terrible long night if I have to go out like that all night and that's if the fan motor doesn't go out. Anyone have any suggestions?????  Can't really hang anything on it and tie it down either.
Supposed to get to -20 below tonight!!!

how about a K&N outerwear sock or something of that nature? or does that area get hot as well? just was thinking you may have one or something like that that would help repell  water and sno off but breathe? to get air just a thought out of the blue....to get your mind turning.... I wish you the best we had temps like that for couple weeks here as well. do you have a pic of the door?
Kelly

I just looked at the web site I would make a tin box to cover the blower better make it pull air in from the bottom left side so it has to come in and get sucked all the way around to blower....may have to rivet it on for temp or self tap it on....to the org. metal cover if that makes sense?

13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Building a stove
« on: January 05, 2014, 07:28:38 PM »
I'm going to build a outside stove looking for some in put? Like some of P&M ideas like water in the grates or fire bricks? Like some of cb ideas some legend? If anyone has some ideas of does and don'ts let me know? Thanks??????????

you may want to post this ? in the home made boiler section....a lot of top notch home made boiler builders on here.....you will get some top notch answers what works great and what does not.....keep us posted on your build and welcome to the site....

Kelly

14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: What outdoor furnace to buy
« on: January 05, 2014, 07:23:20 PM »
Hi I'm in the market to buy a new outdoor furnace. My house is new with 6" foam insulation and a full basement. Total of 3800 sf. My utility bills aren't horrible but high enough in the winter months. I've looked at most outdoor wood furnaces but can't decide on one. Any honest advice is appreciated.

Jared,
welcome to the site... first ? is can you run reg owd boiler or are you in the epa states?  2 nd ? is look at all your option see what boilers would work best for you....open system or pressurized. they will all last a long time if taken proper maintance of. I went with an indoor model in an insulated jacket..that is pressurized unit.. When I get my shop finished this spring I will get the hot water from boiler plus get the conventional heat off boiler door, stack as well.....this was best suited for me and was backed with a 20 year nonprorated warranty.....I happen to know the owner of the company as well... I wish you the best of luck there are a lot to choose from....lol, if you need any info on my style boiler let me know....but I am not a dealer...

Kelly

15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: average wood usage ?
« on: December 31, 2013, 08:01:18 PM »
How much wood you use . please list  , sq ft. roughly , insulation as poor avg. or good   feel , free to include stove brand ( if wanted ) . plus any other help full info.
The ideal behind this is being a noob how am i doing ...  I am  trying to get a basic understanding for operations.
my stove has a fire box that is 30" wide 36" deep and 36" tall heats 250 gal of water . full load is 12 hour burn time at cooler temp. under 35.
Heating 3000 square feet avg insulation burning a full cord a week 4x4x8 .  use half that @ 50 degrees . that is with seasoned wood that was outside not covered.
aka kinda damp.  but free
Any thoughts about mine is welcome  ,  sound about correct or start looking for issues.
The good thing is already saving money and loveing it  Thanks for the wealth of info from this sight.

I burn roughly 20 face cord here a year in northern ny....we get cold nights at times -30f  house is an old farm house 1,500 sq ft. its,ok insulated replaced down stairs windows and one up stairs.. I have 2 more to go along with front door has single pain window.....not the greatest.....my shop is 18x24 with ok insulated only has 4 inch even in roof going to add a lot more this summer shop has good windows and when I add on my indoor boiler will be in there giving off heat as well.....house is at 72f shop set at 50 or 55f thermo-control indoor boiler in the insulated jacket....heats 130 gal of water and is only a 9 cubic foot fire box. wich is small to a lot of outdoor wood boilers -30f to 0, 6-8 hours burn time, 0 to +30f  I get 8 to 10hours,  12-14 hours +30f up these burn times are in a little shed with cheep  1 inch foam board insulation on walls and ceiling....until addition.....on pad where out door was.... thats with 5 wrap insulation piping and foam wrap pex pipes in house and shop all the way to exchangers
I burn maple, cheery, ash and popular  mixed in.. the wood is seasoned but not covered....it will be when I put up a wood shed on the end of the addition of the shop.... :thumbup:
kelly

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14