Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - svtnut

Pages: [1]
1
Acme Furnace Company / Re: I DON'T love my Acme furnace
« on: February 15, 2014, 06:35:38 PM »
Sizmo, I used a double layer of white fiberglass insulation (used in industrial plants on piping ect,) sandwiched between the same type of metal roofing used on the stove.  I planed on using one of the ports on the back of the stove for a aquastat  well.
 As far as the door, I intend to make the opening bigger along with a new designed door that doesn't require a new gasket every couple of weeks.

2
Acme Furnace Company / Re: I DON'T love my Acme furnace
« on: February 03, 2014, 10:14:04 AM »
No I haven't up graded to the aquastat. Still the cheapo snap switch that come with the unit.
The  Solenoid with flapper door sounds like a good upgrade . I once had a Harman duel fuel furnace that had the solenoid/door so I'm familiar how it works. When I make some changes to this unit later I plan on both aqua stat and a much better force draft system.   One thing I have added that seems to help on heat loss is I made an insulated cover that fits snug into door cavity.  Before I added this I could easily have temp reading ( with a infrared temp gauge ) of 300+ deg on outside of door.  Another down fall on these are stack temperatures. I don't check it all the time but I have seen 3-400 deg - a lot of wasted heat.

3
Acme Furnace Company / I DON'T love my Acme furnace
« on: February 02, 2014, 07:17:53 AM »
I have owned a acme 340 for my forth heating season and I am very dissapointed in my dissuasion and the workmenship of this unit.  I was looking into the Sequoia among other brands sold here locally and let the price influence me. Hind site being 20/20, I think most any other major brand would have a better choice.
Member : precision, stated  in previous post most all of the piss pour designs of this stove and I can't agree more. My unit did not come with a solenoid to open/close blower opening, but the fan very seldom shuts off being the recovery time takes so long. The door is the weakest link (in my opinion) Not only is it to small but just cheap. NO WAY should a person have to buy a second door (as another member stated) just to keep a new gasket to seal every few weeks. And yes I keep a ladder there cause your going to have to keep the chimney cleaned out every week or so if you burn coal or wood that is not prime seasoned for three years.
I work with some guys that bought woodmasters and they seem to like them real well. In fact I know of owners of the sequoia, hardy and mahoning and they all seem to be satisfied with there stoves. I'm sure there are pros and cons to most all of them but this acme needs quite a few of design changes. Not that I have time nor need the expense, but my plans are to make some major changes to this unit before next heating season.
With all the down side of these stoves, they are insulated well and I do like the domestic hot water coil inside the water chamber. But the bad outways the good on this brand and as a owner I would not recconmend .

4
Plumbing / adding backup boiler & heat exchanger ???
« on: October 29, 2012, 05:14:33 PM »
 :-\
Hello to all, I'm new to this site. Could use some advise here. First of all I have an old steam system that i have converted. Not your conventional hot water system, but it works. I have blocked off the ends of the main header trunk line so the water has to go thru the radiators, into the return (condensate) side of the old steam system. Anyways I have attached  two copies of the way my system is now and how I think I need to add this back-up boiler and heat exchanger. My understanding is with this model 7500 thermostat, I can control two heat relays. My plans are to set the gas boiler temp control a couple of degrees less of the main pump so if outside boiler dies down the main pump is still running and the LP gas boiler will kick on.  One concern  I have is if I have the tee in the best location between the heat exchanger and gas boiler. The manifold above the boiler is a 4" SS pipe with 1" ports that I made before I decided to buy a heat exchanger and make it a close system.
 Does this look like it will work ?

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

Pages: [1]